Lesson learned: Go easy on the key when opening/closing panniers!

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Joined
Jul 1, 2017
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Location
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I discovered today, as the 2nd owner of a 2008 FJR, that I've been sloppy about opening/closing my pannier.

Here's the normal usage: Insert key, turn key, PULL ON KEY to raise the flap.

Then I insert/remove whatever in the pannier.

Close pannier, PUSH ON FLAP/KEY to close pannier.

Last night, as I pushed the lever/key combo flat and started to turn it to lock it, the key broke off in the lock - almost no force at all, it just came apart in my hand.

I can see now that 7 years of sideways force on that key finally did it in.

Happily, I was able to call someone to bring my extra key(s) from home and I was on my way in 45 minutes - but here's the lesson I learned: DON'T USE THE KEY AS A HANDLE in any way when opening/closing the latches on the panniers.

I hope this helps someone else -- and at the very least, this should be a reminder that if you have one-and-only-one key for your bike, you're flirting with being stranded.

I plan to take my remaining spare and tape it to the inside of my GIVI trunk. I'll go to the dealer and have another extra cut which I can leave at home.

 
russian_roulette.gif
Pulled on the key to open the latch (instead of lifting on the latch itself)?

https://bfy.tw/EBWL

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/172558-fragile-original-keys-need-new-ones-for-2015-gen3/?hl=%2Bbent+%2Bkey

 
Well, not so much "pulled on the key" as "didn't seek to specifically exclude the key from any of the force of opening or closing" - which I'll be doing from now on!

 
I have 92K on my bike and the have only used one key (other hidden as a spare and never needed). Nothing on the bike ever requires any force to go through the key. Steering locked and key stiff? Wiggle the bars until it unlocks without force. Gas cap: press down a little and turn when locking or unlocking. Side bags: get everything lined up every time so key just turns but doesn't have any drag. This will work every time even with a very full bag. I only use the bike to head far from home and never ride around town so I'm really careful, but the bottom line is the key is strong enough if you take a minute and realize it's a key, not a lever.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
^^^^ Agreed. Only one FJR. Still using original first key. Points getting a little rounded after 10 years and 182,000 miles. Its been straightened a couple of times but still hanging in there.

 
Kinda reminds me of the guys in the gym who make a lot of annoying noise by letting the weights falls on the racks. Mostly big guys so I do nothing but let it annoy me.

 
My keys are soft as butter. Doesn't matter, because I circumvent karma by never using them except to make baby keys. My originals are in a drawer and after the first week of ownership, have never seen a lock again.

 
The chip keys are expensive and made out of something softer than metal (Chinesium?). When I bought my bike, the PO (a friend) gave me two rings with two keys on each - one chip key and one non-chip copy from a locksmith. His advice was to only use the chip key in the ignition, use the copy for everything else on the bike. Good advice.

 
FJR keys are like butter. Probably made out of left over pot metal used to make the front fairing sub-frame on the gen3 bikes.
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Wasn't long after I bought my gen2 that I had some decent keys made.

 
A locksmith told me the keys are make of Chinesium so they don't act like a saw to damage the locking mechanisms. My master key got bent too many times, so I got a chipped dupe for the ignition, and an un-chipped dupe for everything else.

 
Damn straight tough audience.

Lots of FJR miles represented herein. Lots.

 
I wonder if there's any correlation between people that do their own maintenance, and broken keys?
My guess would be an inverse correlation. More personal PM, fewer broken keys.

Those that do their own maintenance are more likely to be in tune with the mechanical details of their bikes, be aware of sticking or resistant locks, and know how/when to best lube them for increased longevity.

 
I don't get the confusion. It's not really that the keys are "soft." What causes the bending and twisting of the keys is the way the locks are designed. In our cars, all the locks and ignition require the keys to be fully inserted, so everyone puts a key in and twists. No problem.

On the FJR, the only set of tumblers that take the full key are in the ignition. In every other lock, including the bags and the seat lock, the key only goes in about half-way. Add that to the difficulty any resistance can place on the key, and bending or twisting them is very easy.

Ham fisted users are going to have problems, and anyone using their key as a handle, or as the lever mechanism to close the bags is going to destroy keys quickly. How can anyone expect to do that and not have problems?

Reduce the amount of pressure required to turn your locks and your keys will last longer. Be clumsy and they will not. This is a huge case of user error. Sorry!!

 
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