Loctite Application Guidelines

[V GER]

RED, BLUE, HI-TEMP, etc.....

Is there a guide on the forum or elsewhere to help in determining which version to use on various fasteners?

TIA, from this here FNG.

 

[C&C]

Blue or green are used if you are planning on loosening and tightening, on a sort of regular basis. Red is used when you're assembling on a more, set it and forget it, basis. Red can be loosened but usually requires heat. Buy yourself a service manual, requirements will be listed there. Obviously, high vibration areas, are candidates for thread locker.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Invest in Blue Loctite in the gel tube, not the liquid. About $18 but will yield more uses than $50 of the liquid stuff.

I dare to say that there are extremely few, if any, normal maintenance points that require Red Loctite. Also be aware that the repeated use of even Blue Loctite, where steel bolts meet aluminum threads, can result in stripped threads. If you find yourself repeatedly servicing a steel2aluminum bolt point and reapplying Loctite each time, then my recommendation is to make that a service point in your log and use anti-seize with a good torque wrench.

Without a doubt the number-1 reason that bolts come loose on motorcycles is due to improper torque, not the absence of Loctite. Anti-seize provides smoother tightening of the bolt and helps prevent wear on the aluminum threads.

Never use Red Loctite anywhere you would hesitate to heat with a torch. Because it's most likely that is what it will take to remove the bolt.

Some of the other "wrenches" on this forum will now chime in. Just my $.02.

 

[Ignacio]

Google my friend, Google.

I couldn't find a comprehensive chart summarizing things on Loctites website, but did find the individual technical sheets for red (high strength), blue (medium), low, and green (wicking).

And I found this list that gave a good summary.

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

I've used purple loctite on small set screws with good success. It is made specifically for small applications.

 

[V GER]

Invest in Blue Loctite in the gel tube, not the liquid. About $18 but will yield more uses than $50 of the liquid stuff.
I dare to say that there are extremely few, if any, normal maintenance points that require Red Loctite. Also be aware that the repeated use of even Blue Loctite, where steel bolts meet aluminum threads, can result in stripped threads. If you find yourself repeatedly servicing a steel2aluminum bolt point and reapplying Loctite each time, then my recommendation is to make that a service point in your log and use anti-seize with a good torque wrench.

Thanks JeffAshe!

This is the kind of 'real world' stuff that will save a wrench challenged FNG like me some grief. :fan_1:

and thanks to all for the other feedback....

:thumbsupsmiley: :thumbsupsmiley: :thumbsupsmiley:

 

[HaulinAshe]

Your welcome!

And as I was re-reading my post, I realized that I failed to clarify WHY repeated use of Blue Loctite may be harmful. It is the buildup of material in threads that are not open on both ends that tends to cause damage. If you CAREFULLY remove all the old Loctite from both the female threads and the male bolt before reassembly, then repeated use is okay. But in reality very few of us will do that. Most everyone will continue to reapply more and more Loctite until the buildup finally brings out aluminum the next time the bolt is removed.

On motocross bikes we must clean, disassemble and reassemble the same pieces almost every week. That's where I got really good at using anti-seize and a torque wrench, rather than so much Loctite.

Just FYI, I do use Blue Loctite on bolts like handlebars, suspension pivots and other such places where there is lots of vibration or lots of rotational movement, and not very frequent disassembly. It's cheap piece of mind.

 

[Bike Effects]

Invest in Blue Loctite in the gel tube, not the liquid. About $18 but will yield more uses than $50 of the liquid stuff.

Where do you find this stuff? I have never heard of it before.

 

[Geezer]

Invest in Blue Loctite in the gel tube, not the liquid. About $18 but will yield more uses than $50 of the liquid stuff.

Where do you find this stuff? I have never heard of it before.

My local Advanced Auto has the blue gel on the shelf.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Invest in Blue Loctite in the gel tube, not the liquid. About $18 but will yield more uses than $50 of the liquid stuff.

Where do you find this stuff? I have never heard of it before.

Yeah, I had never seen it. Then one day just happened across it at a local bike shop. They have never restocked it since because, according to them, people said it was too expensive. Smelling BS I searched elsewhere. You cannot find it locally around here.

I managed to locate it in a JP Cycles catalog as a "New" item. Item #:900-435.

Price was $17.95 and worth every penny. It saves replacing all those pants and shirts with the blue-dot stains!

:yahoo:

 

[Charlie Hoss]

RED, BLUE, HI-TEMP, etc.....

Is there a guide on the forum or elsewhere to help in determining which version to use on various fasteners?

TIA, from this here FNG.

Hey V GER,

Look, you're no longer a FNG. You've been promoted! Congrats.

 

[818Guy]

Invest in Blue Loctite in the gel tube, not the liquid. About $18 but will yield more uses than $50 of the liquid stuff.
I dare to say that there are extremely few, if any, normal maintenance points that require Red Loctite. Also be aware that the repeated use of even Blue Loctite, where steel bolts meet aluminum threads, can result in stripped threads. If you find yourself repeatedly servicing a steel2aluminum bolt point and reapplying Loctite each time, then my recommendation is to make that a service point in your log and use anti-seize with a good torque wrench.

Without a doubt the number-1 reason that bolts come loose on motorcycles is due to improper torque, not the absence of Loctite. Anti-seize provides smoother tightening of the bolt and helps prevent wear on the aluminum threads.

Never use Red Loctite anywhere you would hesitate to heat with a torch. Because it's most likely that is what it will take to remove the bolt.

Some of the other "wrenches" on this forum will now chime in. Just my $.02.

Dead on point especially the comments about anti-seize. My previous motorcycle was a Big Bear Choppers Venom ProStreet. Build it myself...

 

[V GER]

Hey V GER,

Look, you're no longer a FNG. You've been promoted! Congrats.

Yeah, how about that?

And I don't even have my wheels yet!

Soon........ VERY soon. (If I say the date, I might wake Murphy) :sleepysmileyanim:

THANKS :clapping: