Loctite v. anti-seize

[fjr turbine]

Man, I am SO confused....

I'll soon have a new set of Moko's, so do I use Loc-tite,

anti-seize or what?

I also have a new set of bar ends (polished) and I bought

some chrome hardware to go with them. Which one do I

use in THIS situation?

I'm thinking anti-seize for Moko's AND bar ends, since

I'm using dissimilar metals.

Please advise...

Jim

 

[radman]

Man, I am SO confused....
I'll soon have a new set of Moko's, so do I use Loc-tite,

anti-seize or what?

I also have a new set of bar ends (polished) and I bought

some chrome hardware to go with them. Which one do I

use in THIS situation?

I'm thinking anti-seize for Moko's AND bar ends, since

I'm using dissimilar metals.

Please advise...

Jim

I used neither, on either. I suppose, if one insisted, I might put just a dab of silicone gasket sealer on the very last threads to enter the hole.

 

[C&C]

If Loctite is not specifically specified for installation, and dissimilar metals are involved, I would go with the anti-seize. Generally installation instructions will refer to Loctite if indicated.

 

[radman]

Dissimilar metals are not a corrosion issue if they do not connect chassis components that might act as an electrical pathway, at least to the degree that they might corrode to the point it is destructive.

 

[Windjammer]

Loctite 242 is a common "removable grade" loctite, available at most auto parts stores. Works well for fasterners you need to prevent from vibrating loose, but may need to remove later for maintenance, etc.

One other note about threadlockers like Loctite - it's best to keep them away from the plastic parts of the bike. I used some "Honda brand" threadlocker (not a Loctite product, AFAIK) on some screws that held the plastic fairing in place on another bike I had. The threadlocker attacked the plastic, causing it to harden and crumble. The whole fairing had to be replaced, since all the little plastic mounting tabs the screws went through were so much dust in the wind. So when working near fasteners that go through the plastic, or even near it, use screws with the encapsulated loctite, or a nyloc screw, or safety wire, or anything that's not a liquid. You don't want to replace 2K worth of plastic because of a bottle of threadlocker that cost $1.59 :bigeyes: