Long-Distance Endurance MT10 Project

[user 213]

Low profile 90º bulkhead fitting - LINK


This would have been cool, but I couldn't find the micro EKW 90º swivel in a size larger than G1/4" which likely would flow too slowly. G fittings use O-rings and are strait thread. You'd need to swap the rubber O-ring to a fuel safe one.



Found another available in multiple sizes, but spendy. LINK

 

[Oldjeep]

For fuel fittings you can get swivel AN fittings in pretty much any size you like at any speedshop.

 

[dzane's son]

This is one of the coolest builds I've seen in a long time. Subscribing to this thread to watch the remaining work unfold.

 

[Warchild]

View attachment 3518

Wow... just wow, that is so gorgeous...!

The original 4.3 gallon aux cell fabricator, Ernie Azevedo, is making me his custom low-profile 90-degree bulkhead fitting, so I will wait for it's arrival and decide where to drill a HUGE-******** IN MY ******* TANK!

Not that I am concerned, or anything.

 

[RossKean]

Wow... just wow, that is so gorgeous...!

The original 4.3 gallon aux cell fabricator, Ernie Azevedo, is making me his custom low-profile 90-degree bulkhead fitting, so I will wait for it's arrival and decide where to drill a HUGE-******** IN MY ******* TANK!

Not that I am concerned, or anything.

Any other options than drilling the tank? Would this approach work? (Don't know how the plumbing works for your MT10...)

https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/2018-fjr-aux-tank-plumbing.177139/

 

[user 213]

Wow... just wow, that is so gorgeous...!

The original 4.3 gallon aux cell fabricator, Ernie Azevedo, is making me his custom low-profile 90-degree bulkhead fitting, so I will wait for it's arrival and decide where to drill a HUGE-******** IN MY ******* TANK!

Not that I am concerned, or anything.

Yes, that's a sexy bit of alloy. (edit) forgot to add that that style of swivel fitting is mainly used for water injection stuff, thus the rubber, (not fuel safe), O-ring. But Dayam, I like the features and sano look.

Phffft, not your first rodeo on drilling the tank.

For real stress, try drilling holes in the roof of your two day old, brand new car for a custom roof rack. Or slightly less, installing roll bars in new, un-sold cars for a dealership. I did a dozen or so of those and drilling for an aux tank bulkhead fitting has zero stress after stuff like that.

 

[Warchild]

My close inspections to date all point to an obvious drill site candidate: the flat area aft of the fuel pump, to the left side of tank, as denoted by yellow 'X' in below photo. The fuel pump plate and the flat area aft of it represent the absolute lowest point o n the factory tank, many inches lower that the aux cell floor, so I should wind up with decent differential here.

Orientation: White arrow points toward front of bike; red arrow points to rear of bike.

 

[user 213]

Mr. Tank, say hello to my little Step Bit! I still like the taped in place spray can cap on the inside to catch chips. Saves a little time cleaning things out after.

 

[Warchild]

Major milestone in this Long-Distance project bike... the Auxiliary Fuel Cell has been mounted up! I still have all the plumbing to do, but this was a critical piece of the puzzle, creating a strong, beefy mounting platform.

The Aux Cell and Mounting Plate are being transferred over from the outgoing S1000XR. Amazingly, the rear-most holes in the plate just happened to be an exact fit on the Givi rails - major score! So I only needed four more holes made that are specific to the Givi rack:





Outline of the Givi rails to provide mounting holes to drill. The etched oval-shape scratches represent Givi forward-most mount hole, the yellow hole marks split the difference between forward and rear holes:




Mounting plate final installation - underneath this plate, the forward and rearward holes also had really beefy cross-bracing bolted in, 1/4" thick and 1" wide, made from very tough T6061 aluminum stock.





Now the Aux Cell itself is bolted on, the fuel and vent fittings drop through the plate opening. The addition of those two cross-bracing members bolted to the Givi rails has made this mounting platform just as rock-solid as it can be.





Final installation. Now we are talking The Business!







Next up will be the drilling/plumbing game. Need to ride the bike for a while first. I am also replacing all nine perimeter fasteners with new stainless hardware when I install an aft-facing Signal Dynamics LED Brake Light Bar at the base of the aux cell.

 

[John_Atkinson]

The SW-Motech Hand Guards arrived early, so I did a quick install on the clutch side. Holy ****, they look good!

Dale, are yours the Kobra guards with the SW-Motech Extender pieces added on?

 

[Warchild]

Dale, are yours the Kobra guards with the SW-Motech Extender pieces added on?

'
Yes, exactly so.

 

[user 213]

Looking most excellent. Progress is good!

 

[rogdeb]

Wow !! How did I miss this project thread .
Engineering ingenuity , love it, wish I was as capable.

 

[Warchild]

The ECU has returned from 2 Wheel Dynoworks in Kirkland. Really hoping a re-flash back to factory specs would allow MPG to climb into the mid-30's.

The initial test findings are not encouraging, however. That said, it was only a quick 60 mile test run, mostly interstate.

I am seeing slight improvement from the 29-30mpg I have seen since I brought the bike home last week in November.

But only in the 32-33mpg range, and that was going painfully slow. Like I say, need to run the bike and test more.

The bike is still a dream ride, flashing back to factory specs has not appeared to affect throttle response to any noticeable degree, so that is good.

It's entirely possible I just have to accept this ****-all gas mileage, and solve the range problem by carrying more fuel. By this I mean I am going to find a totaled MT10 and salvage the fuel tank, and give it to my fabricator to cut into the tank and enlarge it by 1.5-ish gallons. I am not keen to carry anything larger than the 4.3 gallons I am currently carrying.

More to come. A lot more. I am not letting this crap MPG stop me from this project build.

 

[Warchild]

Upon testing a second tankful of gas... I have to call this experiment of flashing back to factory specs a failure.

This second tank, I did not purposely go slow, or do a steady interstate run - this was a just a casual, routine run around the canyons and nearby High Plains.

Unbelievably, gas mileage now indicates my previous 31.5 mpg has fallen to 29.8 mpg. And now, I am in fact noticing the classic symptoms that prompt a flash in the first place: my cold starts are pretty gnarly now, the motor will cough and spit until it's warm up. There are noticeable hints of surging going on at modest-to-low speeds, the Mode One throttle has certainly become more abrupt, etc, etc

Two Wheel Dynoworks tells me I might as well send the ECU back to them for their normal flashing-for-performance. If the MPG is the same/worse AND I now have a crappy factory throttle response, their stance is that let's at least get rid of the throttle issues. It makes sense, that's what I will do.

Today I am pulling off the rear tire and install a 41-tooth rear sprocket. That is down 2 teeth from OEM. That is about all I am going to do to increase my range for this upcoming riding season.... I am not getting a larger aux cell. Over next winter, I will look at enlarging the factory's paltry 4.5 gallon fuel tank.

Latest little farkle: this is the SYKiK TPMS. I've had one on the Tracer since the get-go. A TPMS a critical item when carrying wifey. Wish we had it when we the FJR's rear tire deflated and un-beaded itself, at speed, in July 2019, during an intense Montana rainstorm. Big believer in these TPMS systems now.

 

[Auburn]

Does your TPMS system give you an audible alarm in your helmet? Or is it visual only?
I have been using the FOBO2 because the app will alarm audibly (both high or low pressure and high temp) through the phone to my helmet. Each has a different tone to alert you. I also got the FOBO2 because I can have them on my trailer when towing on camping trips.

 

[dzane's son]

I continue to be impressed with this build - so exciting to see someone doing a build that's a bit off the beaten path.

As for the mileage, unfortunately these Yamaha CP4 motors are known for being substantially thirsty no matter the state of tune. I experience the same on my R1M.

Fully agreed with 2WDW that flashing back to the performance flash makes sense as it offers substantial improvements in throttle response, smoothness, etc. Nels is a good friend of mine, and he and his crew are obsessive about creating the absolute best tune files possible - spending hundreds of hours on the dyno to fine-tune every aspect.

Can't wait to see what's next with your build!

 

[Warchild]

Does your TPMS system give you an audible alarm in your helmet? Or is it visual only?
I have been using the FOBO2 because the app will alarm audibly (both high or low pressure and high temp) through the phone to my helmet. Each has a different tone to alert you. I also got the FOBO2 because I can have them on my trailer when towing on camping trips.

It does have an audible beep alarm - but fat lot of good it does underway with helmet on! The bluetooth is for temps and pressures only, nothing to the helmet that I recall seeing in its manual. Still a nice little unit for the relatively inexpensive price. The kit comes with this nifty mounting hardware that I am using on the brake reservoir - no wires make for a nice, clean install.

 

[Warchild]

Not only time for a pair of fresh set of Dunlop RoadSmart IVs, it is also YOSHIMURA time!

 

[Warchild]

Very happy to unload this factory cat. Not only does it look like ass, it weighs a friggin' ton! The weight savings alone justifies this Yosh 3/4 system!





Now we are talking The Business!