Looking for advise - 2008 FJR, drowned in Salt Water, hoping to resurrect

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blassoff

Its just the dog in me, baby
FJR Supporter
Joined
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Location
Villanova PA
Hey Gang; As some of you might know I was lucky enough to Buy SCB's 2008 FJR and get it transported back to PA. Because of the terrible cold weather here (and lack of a heated garage), the only thing I've done so far is give this bike a bath in hot water, cleaning off most of the sea salt. The bike was submerged pretty much to the top of the tank. There was an accessory fuse block behind the back seat which I removed and checked. It was corroded beyond repair.

The plan is to start by removing all the plastics, bags, seats, gas tank, air box, and dashboard. To help decide whether this is a parts bike or a real candidate for getting back on the road, I want to start by pulling the plugs, scope the tops of the pistons and cylinder walls, and remove a side cover to see if I can get the engine to turn by hand. Prior to doing that I expect to put some magic elixir into the cylinder heads and letting them soak. I'm not sure what I want to place into the heads. I've heard Marvel Mystery Oil and Seafoam.
Other than doing a valve check, I've never torn into a bike engine so some thoughtful advise would be super helpful.

Gurus have at it. I'll document what I find and probably start with a *****-load of wd40 loosening bolts just getting the bike nekid.

Thank you, I appreciate the assistance!! Baz.


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Hey Barry! Some cheap advice.... I'd start with spraying every electrical connection with ACF-50. It penetrates, dissolves corrosion and leaves a protective film. It's developed for aircraft so it's good stuff. Then I would use Yamaha Ring Free instead of Marvel Mystery Oil. Probably similar but the Yamaha stuff is well proven, to the point of freeing up seized motors. Pull the plugs and crank the motor briefly to shoot out any water that may still be in the combustion chamber. Then pour ring free into each plug hole and let it sit a day or 2. Needless to say oil change, fuel drain and coolant change. Fresh plugs and air filter couldn't hurt. I've got a used irfilair filter in great shape you can have and ACF-50.

Shoot me a text when you think you may start the tear down. If I'm free I could be tempted to shoot over and help wrenching. (y)
 
Nice...Thanks Chuck. I'm still not retired, so I'm waiting for a break in the weather and some time away from work before tearing into it. I'll definitely keep you posted!!

You're thinking that I don't have to disconnect every single connection, I can just spray on the ACF-50, and give it time to work? That's way too easy. I was going to load up on electrical contact cleaner and a mild wire brush
 
I think I would assess the stuff in order of cost to remedy. Engine/transmission, clutch, ECU, final drive, ABS unit, gas tank etc. Electrical switches and contacts plus bearings are likely to need attention and time to remedy but may not be worth the work if major systems are FUBAR. I would get a scope into the engine first and spray some oil into the tops of the cylinders before trying to turn it over. Drain the crankcase and final drive oil and see how much water comes out. Rinsing electrical stuff with demineralized water followed by drying with isopropyl alcohol followed by ACF-50 is a good idea. Gotta get rid of the salt snd water first.

You might have problems everywhere making restoration impractical. Forks, shock, brake calipers, swingarm, relay arm, steering head etc.

Good luck. And let us know what you find.
 
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