Lowering the FJR

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dexter1973

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
I need my FJR to drop like 1-2inches..... Yes I am short and have dropped the bike before b/c I only have tiptoes making ground contact. I have a stock seat and tires... I have read up on here about links, but it sounds risky and I dont know what the easiest/most effective way to do this is. what are my best options? thanks!!

I also have a sore throttle wrist from the angle and grip. Will risers help with this?

Thanks!!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I need my FJR to drop like 1-2inches..... Yes I am short and have dropped the bike before b/c I only have tiptoes making ground contact. I have a stock seat and tires... I have read up on here about links, but it sounds risky and I dont know what the easiest/most effective way to do this is. what are my best options? thanks!!
I also have a sore throttle wrist from the angle and grip. Will risers help with this?

Thanks!!
I have a 30" inseam and I had to lower mine. I work in a machine shop with a water-jet so I cut a set of dog bones that lowered the back end about 5/8. Then I loosen the triple tree camps and lowered the front a 1/2". That did it for me. I know the Corbin seat is suppose to help. I also had to cut my kick stand down a 1/2" to. If you want to try the dog bones let me know.

 
Koubalinks lower the rear of the bike approx 7/8 of an inch and these links lower the rear approx 1&1/4Lowing links

Remember to also lower the front by raising the front forks in the triple tree clamps by 1/2 inch and make sure you are running a good shock.

 
thanks guys... I need to lower, but dont want to screw up the bike either with a multitude of changes.. can I do the KL's alone or do I have to lower the front also?

 
thanks guys... I need to lower, but dont want to screw up the bike either with a multitude of changes.. can I do the KL's alone or do I have to lower the front also?
Good reason for lowering the front is to keep the original steering angle. With the rear lowered the bike will be more stable at speed but slower steering.

Radical example would be the difference between a kids tricycle and a chopper. Tricycle changes direction quickly unlike a long laid back chopper.

 
thanks guys... I need to lower, but dont want to screw up the bike either with a multitude of changes.. can I do the KL's alone or do I have to lower the front also?
You could do the kouba links alone, but why? Lowering the front is easy, in fact easier than lowering the rear.

I put the kouba links on my bike, and lowered the front to match. It was quite easy, the only real hangup is that if you have the bike on the centerstand, the stand is in the way of pulling out one of the bolts that holds the links on. Not a big deal, but I can see it being annoying if you put the bike on the stand, took the one bolt off, then discovered you couldn't get the other one out...So plan on jacking the bike up.

If you do the links alone, it will affect the handling of the bike, you're going to be effectively increasing the rake angle and trail. but not by much. I think the more significant fact is that you aren't going to get the full amount of the lowering by doing this, since the front of the bike is going to be at the same height, the seat will be only be lowered by, say, half of the amount the rear is lowered. If that's all the lowering you need, you could probably achieve it by screwing around with the seat or something.

 
Risers are good for short people, but a throttle boss would be more help for the wrist. The risers help more with the neck and shoulders.

If/when you lower the bike, be careful where you park it since the lean angle to the side stand is no longer the same, even with some of the stop ground away. You're also going to ground the bike on some of the bigger speed bumps.

That being said, the comfort of getting more of your foot down is worth it. I used to have a pointed toe on one side, with the bike leaned over. With the KL I can get a toe down on each side now.

 
Risers are good for short people, but a throttle boss would be more help for the wrist. The risers help more with the neck and shoulders.
If/when you lower the bike, be careful where you park it since the lean angle to the side stand is no longer the same, even with some of the stop ground away. You're also going to ground the bike on some of the bigger speed bumps.

That being said, the comfort of getting more of your foot down is worth it. I used to have a pointed toe on one side, with the bike leaned over. With the KL I can get a toe down on each side now.
I would guess that, solo, lowered, the bike still has more ground clearance than two-up with a decent sized pillion.

The only spot I've ever scraped the bottom of the bike on, I've also scraped the bottom of my pickup (with oversize tires and rear 'load handlers' that added about an inch) on.

Now, if you lower the bike AND load it up with a pillion and tons of stuff...

 
Koubalinks are EXPENSIVE. Yes, they're pretty, but keep in mind where they are on the bike. You never see them.

I bought dogbones for my FJR that lowered it 1.4" for $25.00 plus shipping from this guy on eBay: supermoto36

I then slid the fork tubes up 1.4" to keep the geometry as close to stock as possible. Finally, you MUST bend or cut and re-weld the kickstand.

I am having problems with the rear bottoming out even with the rear shock set on HARD when riding 2-up with side bags and Givi top case -- and we're not heavy people. 140# each x 2 people. I also dragged the center stand around a corner (scary) so I'm going to take it off. You need two guys to get it on a center stand after lowering it 1.4" anyway. It could be that my stock shock is going bad or it could be that 1.4" less travel is just too much for the stock shock.

If you're not heavy and you're riding solo and don't have top bags then what I have described above might work for you just fine.

I'm going to a more expensive solution to lower the rear of my FJR. I have ordered a custom length Penske 8983 shock from the guys at GP Suspension. When the shock arrives in a couple of weeks I will be installing that and putting the stock dogbones back in. In my opinion, this lowers the motorcycle more correctly than using dogbones. The stock dogbones put the swingarm leverage point back to what Yamaha intended and the custom shorter shock will lower the FJR at that point. The shorter shock is also designed to have less travel so it shoudln't bottom out.

That's my $0.02.

 
Koubalinks are EXPENSIVE. Yes, they're pretty, but keep in mind where they are on the bike. You never see them.
I bought dogbones for my FJR that lowered it 1.4" for $25.00 plus shipping from this guy on eBay: supermoto36

I then slid the fork tubes up 1.4" to keep the geometry as close to stock as possible. Finally, you MUST bend or cut and re-weld the kickstand.

I am having problems with the rear bottoming out even with the rear shock set on HARD when riding 2-up with side bags and Givi top case -- and we're not heavy people. 140# each x 2 people. I also dragged the center stand around a corner (scary) so I'm going to take it off. You need two guys to get it on a center stand after lowering it 1.4" anyway. It could be that my stock shock is going bad or it could be that 1.4" less travel is just too much for the stock shock.

If you're not heavy and you're riding solo and don't have top bags then what I have described above might work for you just fine.

I'm going to a more expensive solution to lower the rear of my FJR. I have ordered a custom length Penske 8983 shock from the guys at GP Suspension. When the shock arrives in a couple of weeks I will be installing that and putting the stock dogbones back in. In my opinion, this lowers the motorcycle more correctly than using dogbones. The stock dogbones put the swingarm leverage point back to what Yamaha intended and the custom shorter shock will lower the FJR at that point. The shorter shock is also designed to have less travel so it shoudln't bottom out.

That's my $0.02.
I had the same dogbones installed then took the FJR to the dealership and they re-welded my kickstand for about $25. The only issue I have now is that it takes more muscle than finesse to place the FJR on the center stand. But at 5'6" and a 30" inseam, I feel more confident holding the bike up with the balls of my feet rather then being on my tippy toes. I have not lowered the front, once I figure out the correct method, I might check it out.

 
I need my FJR to drop like 1-2inches..... Yes I am short and have dropped the bike before b/c I only have tiptoes making ground contact. I have a stock seat and tires... I have read up on here about links, but it sounds risky and I dont know what the easiest/most effective way to do this is. what are my best options? thanks!!
I also have a sore throttle wrist from the angle and grip. Will risers help with this?

Thanks!!
when I had my 05, I had the Kouba links, and a 1" shorter rear shock, and the front forks adjusted as well.

Never did bother me at all riding. Had the side stand rebent so the bike would actually lean over when it was on the stand, but took the centerstand off.

I never could get any bike on a centerstand anyway...<BG>

Oh, I cut down the seat (not recommended) the low corbin was fine.

Miss my 05, but couldn't afford to keep 4 bikes. :eek: (

good luck and ride safe,

Oh yeah... grip puppies!

Mary

 
Last edited by a moderator:
great reading and responses guys.. thanks! I am wondering about the corbin seat though.. how much will it lower me and give me a better ride? maybe kill two birds with one stone.

 
I bought the Kouba links and I had the dealer do it for me while he was doing the ECU replacement and Ignition switch safety recall. It was cheap and it picked up the bike and dropped it back off to my house.

HOWEVER, he didn't lower the front and I can't remember his exact explaination (something about wires I think (length perhaps)) and I went on with life. Yes it is Friday and you can ...

In speaking with another FJR buddy I mentioned the links and he mentioned lowering the front also. Now I am saying Yikes! I am leaving for EOM on Thursday. On two recent rides over Labor Day I felt that the FJR turned like a pig when driving slow. It was fine in the twisties (maybe not I am now thinking).

Anyway, I would like the bike to be lower by lowering the front also to keep it all level.

SOOOOOO, what is the concensus on how much to lower the front. In the past I remember 1/4", here I saw 1/2" and I also saw lowering it the same as the rear. The Kouba's claim to lower the rear 7/8".

Additionally, what is the procedure for lowering the front? People say that it is easy but heart surgery is easy once you do it a few times. I am assuming ...

Put the bike on the centerstand.

Loosen the bolts.

Slide it down some.

Do I need to somehow support the bike so it doesn't just drop and the headers hit the floor? Can someone be specific about what this might look like?

How exacting does the lowering of each side need to be or does it drop down equally? Can I measure it with a tape measure or do I need something fancier?

I am going to continue to search the site, but I read about lowering the bike many times and I never saw the specific procedure for lowering the front.

Additionally, I am planning on grinding the kick stand stop down some to allow the bike to lean over more. If this is not the best method, then I need a suggestion on what I can do in the garage on relatively short notice. FYI, there were times that I felt uncomfortable parking the bike on the right side or the road (on a break) or on a sloping parking lot because the bike didn't lean enough. Lowering the front should make this problem worse. So if anyone wants to lower the bike, you gotta address the kick stand issue also.

Any ideas or help is appreciated as I pretty much have to get this done this weekend.

Art

 
Fixed it for ya...

StrLnrDeluxe_web.jpg


The 2010 Stratoliner Deluxe will be available in Star motorcycle dealerships nationwide beginning in January in a Raven finish with a starting MSRP of $17,490.

(from Cycle News)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Art, the easiest way I found to lower the front end is to place the bike on the side stand. Loosen the lower brace on one fork then the top, raise the fork 1/2 inch and tighten the upper clamp, then the lower. Proceed with the other fork. I used a tape measure.

The 1/2 inch is a guideline to ensure clearance when and if the forks fully compress.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top