Jerry,
I've performed this task several times over the last 13 years of FJR ownership and I have been refining my method for functionality and safety.
What I've found to work best is putting the front wheel in a wheel chock. The $40 Harbor Freight version will do. I mount that chock on a 4 foot long 2 x 12 and put hefty eyebolts near the ends to which I lash down the lower triple clamp. This gives plenty of side to side stability for the bike.
For lifting the rear of the bike I have a boat winch mounted to a double 2x12 that spans my garage stall, maybe 11 ft wide.
Sounds like you can get to some joists in your space. Be sure that whatever you attach to to lift the back of the bike can safely handle 500 lbs. (a little safety margin). I use two heavy duty nylon straps to hold up the rearward cross member that your rear seat latch is on. That lift point is well back from the bike's center of gravity therefore you're lifting less than the whole bikes weight. Conservatively, the front wheel is getting 1/3 of the weight so your setup will take about 2/3's.
Starting with the bike on the centerstand I winch up the back of the bike until the rear wheel is about 8-10" off the floor. This gives adequate space to conduct your wrenching. I put a cinder block under the back wheel to take some of the weight (adjustable by your lifting apparatus) when I'm initially loosening the pivot hardware nuts and bolts.
When it comes time to remove the dog bones, slide a wedge or shims under the rear tire to support the swingarm. Reverse at reassembly of course.
Again I'll emphasize what SLK50 said above: Make sure that you have adequate safeguards to prevent a sideways tip over. If you dig deep enough on these pages, you will find a photo of some unlucky FJR owners bike on its side with the tail in the air. Of course that would make pivot arm service a little easier.