Lubing Shaft Drive Spline

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John d-I tried to remove the plastic but guess I didn't get the right position cause the furthest I got was removing the (2) small retaining bolts.

Bounce-Some great links right there....all printed off and in my info drawer!

I have the T-50 Torx so nothing can stop me now!! :yahoo:

I don't think......
Use a few cuss words and a little elbow grease and those plastic bits will come off.

 
Bounce-Some great links right there....all printed off and in my info drawer!
you do know that clicking on the home link takes you to the main page and lots of stuff is there. lots a potential tree killing.

as for greasing, when, and with what... a lot of this is based on decades of experience with other models of shaft-driven bikes which have consistently shown splines ridden to failure when not maintained and those that seem to last multi-hundreds of thousands of miles when services with each tire change. a vast majority of servicing shops use Honda Moly 60 Paste even when it's not a honda shop. many of those that don't also tend to gloss over other routine maintenance issues too (like the threads about not doing valve clearance checks, etc.).

the reason HM60P is so widely regarded is because it sticks where you put it and does its job better than most other options on the hub and shaft splines. under pressure and heat, it (except the excess) stays put better than bearing grease or lithium soap because of the high moly content.

 
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Bounce-Some great links right there....all printed off and in my info drawer!
you do know that clicking on the home link takes you to the main page and lots of stuff is there. lots a potential tree killing.
Thanks. Being somewhat technologically challenged it's kinda information overload....there is so much to take in, but I'm trying not to be too 'over-redundant' with my questions. Thanks everyone for the replies.

Just one more (hopefully) is there a forum favored on-line source for the Honda lube....I'm way the hell out in the weeds, far from any stealerships.

 
has there ever been one documented instance of FJR spline failure due to lack of lube?

Bueller?? Anyone? Bueller?
The spline would only get stuck if it corrodes too much. It would not ever "fail".

The difference between these splines and the driveshaft splines on a BMW are that the BMW splines are designed to slide relative to each other when the rear suspension articulates. That function is performed at the rear end of the FJR drive-shaft which is bathed in gear oil.

 
How's that compare to the wing?
The first Gold Wings had a grease 'zerk' back by the sliding-spline on the drive-shaft.

But, Honda had to quit that -- owners would pump in grease 'till they saw it come-out, somewhere (that, sometimes, took 2 or 3 cartridges in the grease-gun... :eek: :) )

 
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Received my Krytox yesterday and will be pulling the wheel and shock in a few days (maybe a week or more now) since I just got it all back together after my Spring cleanup. New Ohlins going in and I read the Krytox will last basically last forever :rolleyes: . Sunny days here and now I am going to ride.

 
Yeah, so you know I had to google up what Krytox is... ;)

You'll have to report back on how it works for you. Maybe this will be a one and dun (or is that once and dunce?) maintenance?

 
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I read up on the stuff somewheres on this forum and others and it seems to be the sheeot. A little skeptical on the one and done thing, but others using it have reported that it truly is an amazing lubricant (out of the gutter fellas) and will not need to be re-done. Fingers crossed as it is a wee bit more than the Honda Moly! ;)

 
You're dating yourself there with that comment! We all know the internet was invented for porn and watching videos of people getting hit in the nuts with a ball. DUH. :p

 
I read up on the stuff somewheres on this forum and others and it seems to be the sheeot. A little skeptical on the one and done thing, but others using it have reported that it truly is an amazing lubricant (out of the gutter fellas) and will not need to be re-done. Fingers crossed as it is a wee bit more than the Honda Moly! ;)
Krytox is a super lube designed to take more heat than Moly can stand. Perhaps a little over the top, but if you can find it at a decent price (I can't), then it is the superior product.

Another up and coming product, with better heat resistance than Molybdenum Disulphide, is Tungsten Disulphide, which can be purchased as a powder to add to your oil (engine or final drive), or as a grease (20% Tungsten Disulphide), from these guys who are in my area oddly enough. I'm using it in my commercial grade lawn mower deck bearings, and I know of another rider who is using it in his ST rear drive and on his final drive splines.

https://www.lowerfriction.com/product-page.php?categoryID=5

You can get Honda Moly 60 at https://www.casporttouring.com/cst/motorcycle/23500.html and I believe on eBay. It is getting harder to find and even some Honda dealers aren't familiar with it (duh!!). Somebody tried to start a rumour that it was being discontinued.

OK, another little startler.... the MSDS for Honda Moly 60 says it is 15-20% moly.

 
Which version of Krytox Grease are you using? I see a couple of different ones, 205, 206, 217. I'm guessing one of the Extreme Pressure series GPL 21x would be the choice.

Dennis

 
Which version of Krytox Grease are you using? I see a couple of different ones, 205, 206, 217. I'm guessing one of the Extreme Pressure series GPL 21x would be the choice.

Dennis
That is what I purchased based on recommendations. Stuff is pretty slick (heh) doesn't take much to do the job, which is good since there isn't much!

 
You can get Honda Moly 60 at https://www.casporttouring.com/cst/motorcycle/23500.html and I believe on eBay. It is getting harder to find and even some Honda dealers aren't familiar with it (duh!!). Somebody tried to start a rumour that it was being discontinued.

I've ordered some from a dealer in the UK and he's waiting for a shipment from the States as he can't get it in Europe.

 
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