Maintenence in gerneral and Changing the Horn: I must be getting old...

[MajBach]

I'm just not the hands-on fella I used to be! Is it because I have more money at my disposal and/or less time that I'd rather just pay someone to do the things I used to look forward to doing?

Based in no small part to the threads I have read here and at FJR Tech, I started removing panels, draining fluids, etc., tonight. I have purchased several 'farkles' on-line and am now looking to install them. You aren't just kidding: removing the panels is a pain but I can see how doing it once (when you have free time and no schedule to meet) is beneficial in the long haul; pays to know the little stuff. It's also nice to expose areas for cleaning

So, I'm doing the rad, the plugs, the shaft...the whole nine yards save throttle body sync. The trusty mechanic down the road says he hasn't worked on an FJ before and was surprised to see the flat rate the book states for the job. He figures it must be mostly parts removal and I think he is right. Will probably leave the plastic off when I am done and take it down to him to save a few $$$

I have been looking forward to trying my new handlebar risers as being 6'4", my arms are placed a little differently than most. You'd think with longer arms, the bars need to go down but I guess the higher posture makes me have to reach as my arms are elbows-locked when I drive. Hence the need for the risers. But, I have to say, if I had of known all the work involved, I wouldn't have ordered them. I thought it was a simple as popping a couple of bolts and slipping the blocks underneath. Frankly, I am a little pissed to learn AFTER I receive the parts that I have to go out and spend more $$$ to get a 36mm socket AND have to cut the cable cages??!! I am not a fan of performing work that is not reversible nor cutting/drilling stock parts.

Onto the reason why I really wrote:

The guy I bought this beast from (2009 with 5000mi)wanted to change the horns. He bought the street blaster horns from a site like MCL and it came with specific instructions for the FJR and a wiring harness and relay. I hooked the horns to a battery charger and they sounded like a cow getting run over by a bulldozer. I suspect though they may need to be hard mounted to get the true sound out. The question I have is, why the relay and wiring harness? Shouldn't I be able to simply swap these out for the old ones?

 

[phroenips]

I can't answer the question about the horn relay and harness, but the throttle body sync is EASY once you get a carbtuner. Many around here, myself included, use the Morgan Carbtune: https://www.carbtune.com/

The procedure is on FJRTech that you mentioned previously: https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=21

 

[SaharaJp99]

I'm just not the hands-on fella I used to be! Is it because I have more money at my disposal and/or less time that I'd rather just pay someone to do the things I used to look forward to doing?

Based in no small part to the threads I have read here and at FJR Tech, I started removing panels, draining fluids, etc., tonight. I have purchased several 'farkles' on-line and am now looking to install them. You aren't just kidding: removing the panels is a pain but I can see how doing it once (when you have free time and no schedule to meet) is beneficial in the long haul; pays to know the little stuff. It's also nice to expose areas for cleaning

So, I'm doing the rad, the plugs, the shaft...the whole nine yards save throttle body sync. The trusty mechanic down the road says he hasn't worked on an FJ before and was surprised to see the flat rate the book states for the job. He figures it must be mostly parts removal and I think he is right. Will probably leave the plastic off when I am done and take it down to him to save a few $$$

I have been looking forward to trying my new handlebar risers as being 6'4", my arms are placed a little differently than most. You'd think with longer arms, the bars need to go down but I guess the higher posture makes me have to reach as my arms are elbows-locked when I drive. Hence the need for the risers. But, I have to say, if I had of known all the work involved, I wouldn't have ordered them. I thought it was a simple as popping a couple of bolts and slipping the blocks underneath. Frankly, I am a little pissed to learn AFTER I receive the parts that I have to go out and spend more $$$ to get a 36mm socket AND have to cut the cable cages??!! I am not a fan of performing work that is not reversible nor cutting/drilling stock parts.

Onto the reason why I really wrote:

The guy I bought this beast from (2009 with 5000mi)wanted to change the horns. He bought the street blaster horns from a site like MCL and it came with specific instructions for the FJR and a wiring harness and relay. I hooked the horns to a battery charger and they sounded like a cow getting run over by a bulldozer. I suspect though they may need to be hard mounted to get the true sound out. The question I have is, why the relay and wiring harness? Shouldn't I be able to simply swap these out for the old ones?

I can't comment much about the bar risers as I don't run them, but to do a TB sync you shouldn't have to pull off any plastics. Just raise the tank. Maybe I'm wrong, but when I was putting on my McCruise and had the tank lifted it look as if all the components were right there to do the TB sync.

I hooked the horns to a battery charger and they sounded like a cow getting run over by a bulldozer.

This here almost made me spit my whiskey all over the keyboard and is almost sig worthy! :clapping:

If you could post a youtube vid or a sound clip of what this actually sounds like I'd be greatly appreciative. I work at a John Deere dealership group and have access to bulldozers, and my neighbors have cows, but I do not think my neighbors would be too appreciative of that, nor do I think the cow would stand still long enough for me to run it over.

 

[08FJR4ME]

If you do the complete flush on the Feejer then you may have to pull the panels. Some folks opt to pull the hose drain whatever comes out an re-top it off. No need to pull panels for that. As far as the rest of the farkles you don't need to pull any panels. Just lift the tank.

I opted to buy the Morgan Carbtune and do it myself. It would cost about as much to have it done just once. Premier Cycles does list the install instruction for the risers on the GenII's. Yeah It looks to be a real PIA. GenI's are just a bolt on no mess. Well at least you know how to pull the plastic off. One thing I haven't done yet.

As far as installing the horns you must check for clearances. Most folks end up cutting the plastic to get aftermarket's to fit. Since you mentioned not changing the original bike if need be just check to see what needs to be done first.

Good luck,

Dave

 

[ionbeam]

The reason the horns need a harness and relay is because of the amount of current the horns draw. The stock horns draw up to 3 amps each for a total of ~85 watts, the aftermarket horns will draw more. The horn button can't supply that kind of current so the button turns on the relay using only 2 watts and the relay then supplies power to the horns. The wiring harness is upgraded to pass the extra current and eliminate the need for you to splice in a relay.

I can't speak to how easy it is to get to the horns on a Gen II but it is a true b!tch to get the stock horns out and back in on my Gen I. I'm sure your aftermarket horns are bigger than stock so there wouldn't be room for them in the stock location.

 

[850rdstr]

Magnum Blasters do not require plastic surgery on either Gen I or II bikes, and sound like a whole herd bring run over.

The Gen II has indentations that nicely accommodate the Magnums, Gen I you just need to bend everything to fit.

 

[Crash Cash]

I can't answer the question about the horn relay and harness, but the throttle body sync is EASY once you get a carbtuner. Many around here, myself included, use the Morgan Carbtune: https://www.carbtune.com/

Not to highjack, but is there somewhere to get one of these in the US? I've wanted one for a long time but Chase Bank bends me over and rapes me with a sandpaper covered baseball bat for foreign transactions on my debit or credit cards. (and I don't mean ebay, I mean a real source)

 

[Ant1750]

I agree the after market horns need more power so need the harness and relay. Never had one of those horns but a couple threads down from this one I took pics of my new Stebel horn and installed under front plastics and light area. Take look if you want horn out of way and hidden a little. I rode all morning hit a couple hard ruts in road and no movement very safe mount no issues plus no drilling or cutting of any sort. Just bolt into existing hole and plug it in. Also very close to battery so cables can be very short and no issues.

 

[ionbeam]

...a couple threads down from this one I took pics of my new Stebel horn and installed under front plastics and light area. Take look if you want horn out of way and hidden a little...

<_< >>LINK<<