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Having done a few valve adjusts myself, let me just add this ... it is easy to get the cam teeth off by one, especially as you think you have them lined up right before you tighten the cam holders, then the tightened cam holders change it by just a wee little bit ... and then off by a tooth. Been there, done that. Thus:

1. Take pictures of lined up cam markers before removing cam holders.

2. Always check cam alignment AGAIN after tightening the cam holders.

3. Spin the engine a couple times by hand. If it interferes, you'll know. If the cams are off, it will be easier to see.

On a Triumph Sprint (also interference) we did that, thought we had it all good, buttoned it up, started it, and it ran like crap with barley husks in it (i.e. rough). Pulled it apart, cams were off, put it together, now runs great.

Moral of the story: Not all interference engines break valves if off by a tooth, but it sure as hell runs like crap. Now we can add the FJR to that list. However, I'm surprised it didn't run rough.

I bet you couldn't let it rest until you figured it out!

 
Yes, thanks for your tips.

The bike runs so good still that if I hadn't been on an FJR and test drove it I wouldn't know, but having said that it's something I noticed within 2 blocks of leaving my house and I knew something was not right. The idle was hanging low but I attributed that to needing a TBS post Valve adjustment which I hear is common.

Taking everything apart the 2nd time was so smooth I probably stripped it down in about an hour and was measuring valves again and seeing the alignment of the cams off a tooth, maybe two we will see.

 
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