Mirror bolts too short

[slatonp4]

Okay! I swear on my life that I looked all over for the answer to this one and just could not find it. If it is here, I humbly submit myself to the ensuing floggage.

Better to check here with the combined knowledge of the human race before I go trying to reinvent something that has already been done to perfection and end up creating more problems than I started with.

I am trying to put FZ1 mirrors on my 2006 FJR along with some MCL style aux light brackets that I was able to work up from a set that Scooter G graciously lent me so that I can mount a set of Justin's LR5 led driving lights. The bolts on the mirror are juuuust long enough to mount w/o anything else and when I try to add the 3/16" thickness of the brackets, they just don't make it.

I know someone here has encountered this and I would certainly appreciate a point in the right direction.

Much obliged.

 

[Punkinhead]

I design and build robotic assembly machines for a living and over the years we've developed a special trick for situations like this. We use longer bolts.

 

[slatonp4]

I guess I deserved that.

The bolts are fixed in the base of the mirror.

 

[Punkinhead]

Sorry, couldn't help myself. How about a picture? I assume by your description that there's a nut on the inside of the fairing?

 

[Fred W]

It's much worse on a 3rd Gen. Check out this thread for one solution. (fast forward to the end to skip the early development discussions)

 

[infrared]

I guess I deserved that.The bolts are fixed in the base of the mirror.

Slatonp4,

I don't think so.

Got an old one of those mirrors lying around? I am wondering, how fixed are those "fixed" bolts in the mirror base? Those "bolts" may be studs, and if you can coax them out, you could use longer bolts, or all-threaded rod, cut to the correct length. "Nut-and-Bolts" is a separate heading in the Yellow Pages.

https://www.anywho.com

One of those guys will have metric all-threaded rods or bolts for you, if needed.

Anyway, lock two old nuts together on the mirror studs, and try some gentle heat (propane torch) on the threads that you have fixed in the mirror. Try to turn those nuts both ways, because the heated "studs" may actually be bolts, easily replaced from the top of the base. Best of luck to you.

Cheers,

Infrared

 

[Fred W]

Think again. They are cast into the mirror base. These are pictures of an FZ1 mirror base, which is exactly the mirror that the OP was about

 

[Ignacio]

I guess I deserved that.The bolts are fixed in the base of the mirror.

Slatonp4,

I don't think so.

Got an old one of those mirrors lying around? I am wondering, how fixed are those "fixed" bolts in the mirror base? Those "bolts" may be studs....

I don't think so...to your I don't think so. I've had a variety of mirrors off myself over the years hoping for a full stud, but it's a weird shallow stud (maybe a kind of pressed in spline) to grip the pot metal of the mirror arm casting with threads on one end...and just a scosh short. And I don't think the variety of other smart fellers (like FredW) would have missed a fully threaded stud.

I'm not an MCL parts fan so won't go there. I do know that with the Clearwater brackets and shims there was enough thread on my Gen 3 to securely mount the nuts...and in my August get-off I did note that the studs stayed completely intact and broke the subframe ear clean off!

 

[slatonp4]

Thanks everyone. And thank you Fred for the link to your Gen III thread. That's what I had been looking for. Lots of really good info there. I'm thinking that the FCCN route might be the answer to my problem.

One of the really cool things is knowing that this is an actual issue that a lot of people a whole lot smarter than me are scratching your heads over. I feel less retarded. (Doesn't actually make me any less retarded, just nice to feel that way sometimes.)

Thanks again,

Paul

 

[Punkinhead]

Think again. They are cast into the mirror base. These are pictures of an FZ1 mirror base, which is exactly the mirror that the OP was about

In that case there are a couple of options. First would be to cut the studs off, drill & tap, and insert longer studs (or threaded rod) with red Loctite. Another solution might be to use something similar to this as a nut (the one labeled "round with shoulder"): https://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screw-nuts/=zn1oxl

Drill out the bracket to match the OD of the shoulder. The problem would be getting the length of the shoulder right so it didn't protrude through the bracket. Personally I'd turn one on the lathe out of hex stock.

 

[dcarver]

On my gen2 I machined down the 'stepped' washers...

 

[slatonp4]

Hey dcarver, could you elaborate a bit?

 

[HotRodZilla]

Didn't someone just use one of those sleeves that threaded onto the mirror bolt and then got some threaded rod in the other side? Know what I mean? Like a long nut, threaded on each end. A bolt extension...Solves the length issue without cutting anything.

https://www.shopeddies.com/superior-13-6501-shock-stud-extender-fine-thread-all-but-69-later-fords.html?CAWELAID=520010610000166268&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=520010610001129568&cadevice=m&gclid=CPuLxfXG88gCFQuraQodNbUM2w

 

[bigjohnsd]

Google 6mm threaded sleeve. You can use one to fabricate a longer mirror Bolt.

 

[Fred W]

If you are going to use a female coupling nut (threaded sleeve) you'll also need to space the mirror out far enough to cover the sleeve. That is the exact technique that the SW Motech mirror extenders use.

 

[infrared]

Slatonp4,

You could use blind nuts on the too-short threaded ends, just bend the grabber pins flat first. The Blind Nuts come in common hardware threads, but you may have trouble finding the correct thread, if the mirrors are Metric-threaded.

RivNuts are similar to blind nuts, and they come in many machine-screw thread sizes. They are designed to install threaded holes into sheet metal, and they are normally installed like a pop-rivet. You can use the special rivet-tool to set them, or a long bolt (just wind a nut down on the RivNut top to "set" it). Now you would not want to "set" the RivNut for your use here, just install it like a nut, on the mirror studs. You can buy just the RivNuts that you need; there is no need to buy the complete kit with the setting tool.

Installation: You can use a small (Dremel) cutting wheel to cut "screwdriver" slots into (across) the top of the threaded hole, then use a steel washer, the same size as the cutting wheel, as a "screwdriver" tool to install the threaded "nut." For this job, I'd suggest using a drop of RTV sealant under the head of the RivNut (or Blind Nut) so these fasteners do not come loose when riding.

Check the "Nuts and Bolts" heading (instead of the "Hardware" heading) of the Yellow Pages for sellers of the hardware mentioned here.

https://www.anywho.com

Cheers,

Infrared

 

[CraigRegs]

I ground down the collar around the stud. See the 7th photo in the first post of this thread. Used the same technique when I moved them to my '15. It gives you j-u-s-t enough to thread the nut on. Loctite 'em.

 

[dcarver]

Hey dcarver, could you elaborate a bit?

The gooey stuff is glue.

 

[slatonp4]

Went by my local bolt and fastener store to look for supplies and decided to try to cut the studs off of the mirrors where the threads end and tig weld some long stainless set screws back in their place. That will give me the extra about 1/2" that I need to grab the nut without having to do anything to the bike. I may be out a mirror and a couple of set screws, but then again, maybe not.

I'll keep an account as I go and I'll let you know how it works out. Worst case is that you guys get something to laugh at.

Thanks again for all the good ideas and the help.