Beyond Frustration--Mirror Mount Bracket Snapped

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Thought about cutting off that tab that stops the mirror folding all the way back. Did the cut on an old mirror stem.(Click on image for larger view)



But I've never flitted it, I'm fairly reluctant to test it
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DAMHIK, but the mirror will fold up against the upper fairing (and windshield if you have the right one), so will the FZ1 mirrors..... and if you drop your bike, and have crash bars, it will likely roll right over far enough to flex the fairing in that location. There is no need to test it, I've done it for you with both types of mirrors...... er, uh, in the interests of science you understand. Wait, there were no pictures, so maybe it didn't happen........

As far as the nylon bolt idea, the metal studs are molded into the mirror..... dunno how you'd replace them with nylon......... methinks it isn't going to matter (see above for test results).

IMHO, epoxy is your friend. No sense replacing it, as it is too easily broken and fairly easily repaired in the ear section. I'd bet it can be broken just by somebody walking into your mirror. I see some (fools) hanging their helmets on the mirrors.... not advisable. In my former career, the stress analysis engineers always said, fix the issue in one area, you'll chase the problem to another. I do agree a total redesign is the only real fix.

 
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On my gen 1, I pulled the stay off the bike and brought it to a trusted aluminum welder. For $50, he welded the broke mirror tab back on, and then welded me a gusset on each mirror tab in two places. My mirrors were rock solid after that. Zero vibration in the mirror at speed.

 
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Just saw this post…

Mike- On my Gen. 1 I have broken the tabs 5 times. JB weld for the quick fix until TIG welded properly.

I have the FZ mirrors, IMO it is a weak mounting solution for mirrors, then add Aux lights to the equation and its just a break waiting to happen.

Reinforcing with flange Tabs and a good welding job seems to be the best long range solution.

Wish Yamaha would realize a change is needed.

 
Don't think you can TIG weld cast aluminum. The other fixes are going to be the only way, I'm afraid.

 
"I resemble that remark" After I dropped the '13 on a 'slight downhill stop', I was shocked how much got damaged just tipping over. The mirror strikes first, then the lower fairing, even dinged the inner black panels. Then the engine case hits, and finally the left pipe (no bags on at the time).

I replaced the mirror ($100) and the fairing ($300) only to find this damn bracket busted inside. With many helpers (Tripper Mike and 2Fast + my son and a crowd of others) we fabricated an aluminum bracket BEHIND the broken bracket and tapped and screwed it and JB welded it for good measure. (pics are not in my wheelhouse) .

After 5k miles to GA and lots of RR tracks I can honestly say 'It's holding well'. No vibration and no visible signs, but I WON'T hang my helmet on it.....

My feeling is this is BIG BEAST that should never be dropped. I added case savers (late) but I doubt any drop would NOT DO IT AGAIN.

Mama Yama must know about this weak point of contact, and not want to fix it. I know this bike should never be dropped, but now I park it VERY carefully! YMMV

 
Good to know Garauld, thanks. Heaven forbid, if I break my gen 3 mirror tab, then my fix will be the same as my Gen 1. Gusset the mirror tabs - fix it once and forget it.

 
I was wondering if anyone had a loose broken Gen3 stay that they could send me - I would pay shipping. My thought is to evaluate it and see if it is feasible to add bolt-on reinforcement like I do the stiffy kits.I would weld fix the stay (if possible) and send it back some day. PM me if you have one. Thanks.

 
Gary, that's very admirable and yes you should look at it. However, just my opinion, I would not reinforce this in advance and personally would rather it break on the outboard ears... you have a shot at a repair there without dismantling the whole front end. If you make the outboard break-proof, it's likely going to break somewhere else where you can't get at it to fix. OTOH, one may not be able to reinforce the entire ear area.... the casting is so thin everywhere..... anyhoo, take a look... a couple of guys elected to replace theirs, hope one becomes available to you.

 
With all due respect, the use of JB weld is not something I would use for such a repair. I've use JBW many times in the past with success but the few failures I've had have been with elongated structures such as this mirror support. My vote goes to the solution shown by Redfish. JSNS.

 
I agree with what RaYzerman is saying.

If the ears could be made in such a way that they do not attach to the center part of the stay, but rather attach somewhere else, then replacing just the ears would be a much simpler task.

That's my 2 cents ;-)

 
It is a worrying design feature.

I thought about replacing the mirror attachments with Nylon bolts but I think they are studs? Could still remove the studs assuming they are not welded in or part of the mirror frame casting.

Nylon bolts are used on slope soaring model gliders to hold the wings on, they break on a lumpy landing to save the structure, some people even saw half way through them to make sure they break. It's quite a common feature in aircraft, 'frangible' structure to deal with things like tail strikes.

You could worry that Nylon bolts wouldn't hold a mirror at high speeds (aero loads) but one of my car wing mirrors has been held on by cyano glue for 10 years after kids smashed it off with a football, just can't put it through a car wash! Tested to 125 mph on the autobahn officer!

 
It's called the front stay, and yes it in holds about everything on the front of the bike on. I bought a brand-new bike in July and when they brought it over from their sister dealership it arrived with the stay broken on the right side mirror - someone had dropped the bike on the showroom floor they figure, mileage was still zero, and no test rides were ever logged. They ordered the part overnight and believe it or not they got it back together in one day after the part arrived and the dealership had never worked on an FJR before, mine was the first one they had sold this year. I'm an ex Air Force aircraft sheet-metal and structural mechanic, I think a fix with aluminum and screws similar to what is shown would be doable except I would use more aluminum strips and more smaller machine screws, like 6-32 socket cap with nuts, it takes a very good certified welder to weld casted parts.

 
The FJR worries me also, unlike a Harley there's no protection for this bike if it turns over even in your garage. One accidentally drop on the driveway and you're replacing some very expensive cheap plastic and the front stay if the mirror hits the floor. The more I get into ownership of this bike the more uneasy it makes me, all the videos I've seen of ungreased spline gears and driveshafts, bolts that are severely under torqued, and other Yamaha quality control issues are very worrisome for ownership. Just ride have fun and pray I guess.

 
^^^^...you're not serious are ya Rick - perhaps a little tongue-n-cheek?? You're riding one of the most bulletproof platforms on the market!

--G

 
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