Mobile 1 red cap 15W50

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mech 1 twa

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2005
Messages
350
Reaction score
57
Location
Allentown, PA
I found Mobile 1 RED CAP, not extended type for sale. Local Strauss auto store. Allentown PA.

5qt. bottle $21. 15w50

Strauss is PA. and NJ. only I think.

Checked Mobile website, no listing anymore.

Anyone else still see this for sale?

 
I found Mobile 1 RED CAP, not extended type for sale. Local Strauss auto store. Allentown PA.5qt. bottle $21. 15w50

Strauss is PA. and NJ. only I think.

Checked Mobile website, no listing anymore.

Anyone else still see this for sale?
why not extended type and is 10w40 good for summer work in 70 to 100 ??

 
My dealer put in 10W40 in my bike when it was in for warranty valve work.

Submitted it to Yamaha in the service log for full warranty reimbursment.

Yamaha picked up the tab.

To me this means they have blessed my bike to run 10W40.

 
The cap color was mainly a concern that you NOT get anything with the "energy starburst" logo on the container. That starburst (around the cirlce with the oil's details) means the product has friction modifiers. Some people have experienced clutch slippage when using the starburst products on bikes with wet clutches.

With the advent of billion-mile oils from different marketing departments, the key is to pick something with a plain circle and not with the starburst. That used to be easy (pick the 15w50 with the red cap). Now it's a matter of picking a viscosity that doesn't meet the "starburst standard". 15w50 is one of those choices (with or without the red cap).

Starburst API "doughnut" (can contain friction modifiers)

starburst.jpg


Plain API "doughnut" that notes "energy conserving" (can contain friction modifiers even without the starburst)

starburst2.jpg


Plain API "doughnut" (without the friction modifiers)

oilright.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
The cap color was mainly a concern that you NOT get anything with the "energy starburst" logo on the container. That starburst (around the cirlce with the oil's details) means the product has friction modifiers. Some people have experienced clutch slippage when using the starburst products on bikes with wet clutches.
With the advent of billion-mile oils from different marketing departments, the key is to pick something with a plain circle and not with the starburst. That used to be easy (pick the 15w50 with the red cap). Now it's a matter of picking a viscosity that doesn't meet the "starburst standard". 15w50 is one of those choices (with or without the red cap).

Starburst API "doughnut" (can contain friction modifiers)

starburst.jpg


Plain API "doughnut" that notes "energy conserving" (can contain friction modifiers even without the starburst)

starburst2.jpg


Plain API "doughnut" (without the friction modifiers)

oilright.jpg
So if we fallow that criteria barring grade thickness we will be ok?

Right bounce??

 
With Mobile 1, my personal rule is to stick with 15w50 and know that I'm at a grade where they don't use the modifiers. Since Yamaha said 20w40 dino oil, I personally consider the 15w50 to work as it's less apt to break down under extreme heat that a dino oil would (hence the M1-15w rating would seem to be more stable than the dino-20w).

The 15w50 works in the months-long 100°+F temps of the South Central and South Western US.

Since I live in an area with year-round riding, and temps below 32°F are seldom for any significant length of time, the 15w50 also hold up for the cold weather, too.

I am passing along data points. I don't recommend that you do anything outside of what you interpret the Yamaha factory recommendations to mean.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
:trinibob:

With Mobile 1, my personal rule is to stick with 15w50 and know that I'm at a grade where they don't use the modifiers. Since Yamaha said 20w40 dino oil, I personally consider the 15w50 to work as it's less apt to break down under extreme heat that a dino oil would (hence the M1-15w rating would seem to be more stable than the dino-20w).
The 15w50 works in the months-long 100°+F temps of the South Central and South Western US.

Since I live in an area with year-round riding, and temps below 32°F are seldom for any significant length of time, the 15w50 also hold up for the cold weather, too.

I am passing along data points. I don't recommend that you do anything outside of what you interpret the Yamaha factory recommendations mean.
thanks that all i needed to know.

 
My dealer put in 10W40 in my bike when it was in for warranty valve work.Submitted it to Yamaha in the service log for full warranty reimbursment.

Yamaha picked up the tab.

To me this means they have blessed my bike to run 10W40.
FYI my euro service manual specifies 10w40 23 degrees and above, 20w40 from 41 degrees and above.

 
"...With Mobile 1, my personal rule is to stick with 15w50 and know that I'm at a grade where they don't use the modifiers."

Just like the rest of my esteemed forum members, no amount of time spent reading arcane industry and lab reports about oil, is wasted time. To that end, when I recently puchased an 06' FJR, I went back to many articles and reports that I'd saved about oil. After refreshing my knowledge, I decided that I'd like to stay with Mobil1. I've been using Mobil1 in my 2000 Buell S3. But, Mobil's website information does indicate that their car oils contain molybdennum, a friction modifier. It doesn't indicate whether or not it's only in "Energy Conserving" oils or not. In the Buell, a dry sump clutch, it doesn't make any difference. So, I'm content with the 15w50. At a local AutoZone the store manager and I were trying to figure out if the Mobil1 20w50 (intended for motorcycle use) had molyB in it. He called Mobil right then. According to what he was told, Mobil1 car oils contain varying amounts of MolyB; their motorcycle specific oil doesn't. That goes for their MX4T and their 20w50. Whether or not the presence of a friction modifier in your tranny oil ever causes an issue, is difficult to predict. There are many articles indicating that it is more of a urban legend than objective truth.

 
With my recent acquisition of 62 quarts of MX4T for $50, I'll be using it for a while. Otherwise, the price doesn't justify the differences. Based on lab tests done by MCN, the 15w50 and MX4T had only inconsequential differences for motorcycle applications.

 
Top