Mod to CeeBailey windscreen

[Claymore]

I hesitate to ask, but has anyone contemplated this mod on their brand new V-Stream? Possibly overkill, but I seem to recall that some have reported back pressure with the V-stream too. If the holes eliminate backpressure and the new shape of the V-Stream quiets everything down, could this be the ultimate answer? :blinksmiley:

I have hacked both my stocker and my CB +4+4 in an attempt to decrease the back pressure. The CB with the cutouts was close. A week ago I got the V-Stream - I would not consider cutting into it :blink: I do not perceive any back pressure at all after more than 500mi in all sorts of windy conditions....

 

[brazos parker]

By jingos, friends and neighbors, these cut-outs work as advertised. I went for a 65 mile ride this am, abt 1/2 interstate, and, with the shield in the down position, the air over the top was hitting me abt chinbar level. The air thru the cut-outs seemed to be flowing up the inside of the shield...but have no technical data like bug streaks to prove that out !!

With the shield in the full up position, the air over the top was hitting me at the top of my forehead. The air thru the cut-outs seemed to be flowing to the inside of the handlebar reservoirs.

So, here's my assessment of this inexpensive and quick mod...

1. Back pressure is significantly reduced.

2. Buffeting is reduced.

3. Cockpit is much quieter.

4. Hangnails are cured.

P.S. The cage drivers on the interstate must have thought I was a bit nuts as I waved my left hand around "feeling" for the air flows :lol: !!

Thanx to Jeff Ashe and others for descriptions and pics that gave me the "inspiration" to take a Dremel to my windshield.

I continue to be amazed at the creativity of the posters on this forum and their willingness to share their experience and expertise. Thanx to all.

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

Has anyone just tried using a hole saw (3 in.) in those locations and then cleaning up the edges with a sanding drum chucked up in a drill? A round hole would precluded a fracture from starting in a corner of one of those cut outs.

 

[jbay]

Has anyone just tried using a hole saw (3 in.) in those locations and then cleaning up the edges with a sanding drum chucked up in a drill? A round hole would precluded a fracture from starting in a corner of one of those cut outs.

Like this ?

 

[Groo]

Like this ?

So how do you like it, does it work the same as the more rectangular ones?

 

[jbay]

To be honest , I don't notice any difference in noise , turbulence and back pressure . But then again I have been using the tuning block for the last 2 1/2 years . There is no such thing as quiet. I still must use ear plugs because of noise.

 

[throttlejockeyTJ]

I went from a Windjammer on a XJS 750 to a Pacific Aero 3/4 fairing on a XS 1100S. Windjammer lots of back pressure. Pacifico Aero had 2 vents (each side) deflected up on the inside of the windshield. No buffeting, NO backpressure. It was nice. FJR a lot of buffeting. I don't notice the back pressure a lot. I am surprised that the FJR fairing doesn't function as well as I expected. Good work on the modifications. TJ

 

[UHOH]

.

 

[ronjrieth]

Has anyone tried this on an 06 windshield? Cal Sci's windshield has only one cutout that goes all the way across on their 06 model.

Ron

 

[apratt]

Am I doing it wrong?

I got back to looking at this windshield vent cutout project in advance of summertime riding. I practiced on a scrap bit of windshield using the flexible extension and a reinforced cutting wheel.

I am seeing a lot of melted Lexan piling up ahead of the cutter. Also, there is a kind of "spray" that kicks off the cutter wheel, which solidifies into threads of Lexan cotton candy. It wraps around the Dremel tool spindle and other places. Is this normal?

I'd love to find a way to cut the shield material without melting it. Or maybe I'm running the tool too fast, or too slow, or pushing it too hard, or I could choose a better cutting wheel. Advice, please, before I screw this up!

 

[mdisher]

Am I doing it wrong?
I got back to looking at this windshield vent cutout project in advance of summertime riding. I practiced on a scrap bit of windshield using the flexible extension and a reinforced cutting wheel.

I am seeing a lot of melted Lexan piling up ahead of the cutter. Also, there is a kind of "spray" that kicks off the cutter wheel, which solidifies into threads of Lexan cotton candy. It wraps around the Dremel tool spindle and other places. Is this normal?

I'd love to find a way to cut the shield material without melting it. Or maybe I'm running the tool too fast, or too slow, or pushing it too hard, or I could choose a better cutting wheel. Advice, please, before I screw this up!

I'm not a plastics engineer but I'd 'cut' it with a Jugsaw, then just smooth it out with the dremmel, (or use a cut off tool with the dremmel, maybe).

 

[Claymore]

I'd love to find a way to cut the shield material without melting it. Or maybe I'm running the tool too fast, or too slow, or pushing it too hard, or I could choose a better cutting wheel. Advice, please, before I screw this up!

Do as I did - cut a 1/4" hole and use a jigsaw with a blade rated for plastic. Works like a charm. You will spend a week going at it with a Dremel...tidy it up with a file then some sandpaper (from coarse to file) and you are set.

 

[evilmedic13]

.

Not sure what that means, but I'll post whore on it just in case.

 

[evil_henchman]

Am I doing it wrong?
I got back to looking at this windshield vent cutout project in advance of summertime riding. I practiced on a scrap bit of windshield using the flexible extension and a reinforced cutting wheel.

I am seeing a lot of melted Lexan piling up ahead of the cutter. Also, there is a kind of "spray" that kicks off the cutter wheel, which solidifies into threads of Lexan cotton candy. It wraps around the Dremel tool spindle and other places. Is this normal?

I'd love to find a way to cut the shield material without melting it. Or maybe I'm running the tool too fast, or too slow, or pushing it too hard, or I could choose a better cutting wheel. Advice, please, before I screw this up!

Your using the wrong cutter. The reinforced cutting wheel won't work in plastic. You need to use the carbide wheel, it works like a champ but make sure you have some spare drive couplings. I broke one in the process they're about $2 from Dremel. Here's the wheel you need: Carbide Wheel

 

[brazos parker]

Am I doing it wrong?
I got back to looking at this windshield vent cutout project in advance of summertime riding. I practiced on a scrap bit of windshield using the flexible extension and a reinforced cutting wheel.

I am seeing a lot of melted Lexan piling up ahead of the cutter. Also, there is a kind of "spray" that kicks off the cutter wheel, which solidifies into threads of Lexan cotton candy. It wraps around the Dremel tool spindle and other places. Is this normal?

I'd love to find a way to cut the shield material without melting it. Or maybe I'm running the tool too fast, or too slow, or pushing it too hard, or I could choose a better cutting wheel. Advice, please, before I screw this up!

Your using the wrong cutter. The reinforced cutting wheel won't work in plastic. You need to use the carbide wheel, it works like a champ but make sure you have some spare drive couplings. I broke one in the process they're about $2 from Dremel. Here's the wheel you need: Carbide Wheel

NOW you tell me...don't ask why!

 

[scmagna]

You're pushing too hard. In plastics shop way back in 7th or 8th grade (1970?) I remember my teacher emphasizing easy does it. You want to cut, not melt.

 

[apratt]

Do as I did - cut a 1/4" hole and use a jigsaw with a blade rated for plastic. Works like a charm.

I just tried this on my scrap. Utter failure. It cut OK, but the heat of it was enough to melt the plastic and the cut actually "healed" behind the blade! I was using Vermont American blade #30026, "Thin Metal/Plastic." 21 teeth per inch: https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-U-s...g/dp/B0007UTDVU

Didn't matter if I pushed fast or slow. My jigsaw only has one speed. If you look edge-on at the teeth, you can see the line is wavy from top to bottom. Do I need a blade that's straight, so there's less friction against the sides of the cut? A different blade, a different saw? A trip to Tap Plastics? Help!

(I'll see about getting that carbide bit. The local hardware store didn't have one. And I might try again with the reinforced cutting wheel. After all, Jeff Ashe the original poster used it, so there's an existence proof that it can work!)

 

[650cent]

This is what I used: https://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/bitsmult.html. Cut the speed down to about half and work slowly. Hold the tool as a pencil and practice on a scrap piece. You can feel it cut or if you push to fast it will start to melt the plastic.

Bill

 

[khrome]

Looks like the only thing left to test, is to get my *** soaked in a thunderstorm to see if the spray is too much to bear. Any volunteers???

What ever happened to the rain test?

khrome

 

[HaulinAshe]

Looks like the only thing left to test, is to get my *** soaked in a thunderstorm to see if the spray is too much to bear. Any volunteers???

What ever happened to the rain test?

khrome

Wow!!!

I can't believe this thread still has a heartbeat! Rain test was fine. LuvToRide now has my modified CB shield with the cutouts. It's one of the best pieces of work I ever did.

Rain that manages to pass through the holes, simply blows up the backside of the screen. There's very little water deposited on the screen itself. Most blows between the screen and your helmet.