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Ok, ok , I give..... I put Motul SAE10W40 (5100) which it says on the label technosynthese I'm told it is a semi synthic oil A few years back I was on te west coast and was in need of oil for a oil change. Dropped into the local yamaha dealer and I told him what I wanted and he told me I was using the wrong oil.... Too thin ,they told me 20W40 We didn't get into whether it had to be synthic or not.

Now in my WR250R I use motul 10W40 (3000) which is a mineral oil according to the label. I was told it didn't have enough kilometers on it to change to a semi synthic oil. Maybe some day.

I'm just surprised that one of the Amsoil guys hasen't popped in to berate all lesser oils. Isn't about time for an Amsoil guy ?
The last time somone talked about selling Amsoil they banned!

 
Ok, ok , I give..... I put Motul SAE10W40 (5100) which it says on the label technosynthese I'm told it is a semi synthic oil A few years back I was on te west coast and was in need of oil for a oil change. Dropped into the local yamaha dealer and I told him what I wanted and he told me I was using the wrong oil.... Too thin ,they told me 20W40 We didn't get into whether it had to be synthic or not.
Now in my WR250R I use motul 10W40 (3000) which is a mineral oil according to the label. I was told it didn't have enough kilometers on it to change to a semi synthic oil. Maybe some day.

I'm just surprised that one of the Amsoil guys hasen't popped in to berate all lesser oils. Isn't about time for an Amsoil guy ?
The last time somone talked about selling Amsoil they banned!
For as often as most of us crazies change our oil, we could probably run just about anything .... I love it, the guy at the "dealer" said it was too thin ... I don't really know even how to respond to that ...

Read the manual. The engineers know what they are doing.

It amazes me how people thing that the "engineers" are smart enough to design the darn bike from NOTHING but might not really know what kind of oil it needs ...

Just put in what it says. Worry less, Ride more ...

 
Ok, ok , I give..... I put Motul SAE10W40 (5100) which it says on the label technosynthese I'm told it is a semi synthic oil A few years back I was on te west coast and was in need of oil for a oil change. Dropped into the local yamaha dealer and I told him what I wanted and he told me I was using the wrong oil.... Too thin ,they told me 20W40 We didn't get into whether it had to be synthic or not.
Now in my WR250R I use motul 10W40 (3000) which is a mineral oil according to the label. I was told it didn't have enough kilometers on it to change to a semi synthic oil. Maybe some day.

I'm just surprised that one of the Amsoil guys hasen't popped in to berate all lesser oils. Isn't about time for an Amsoil guy ?
The last time somone talked about selling Amsoil they banned!
For as often as most of us crazies change our oil, we could probably run just about anything .... I love it, the guy at the "dealer" said it was too thin ... I don't really know even how to respond to that ...
The service manual calls for 20w40 in my 06A.

 
Ok, ok , I give..... I put Motul SAE10W40 (5100) which it says on the label technosynthese I'm told it is a semi synthic oil A few years back I was on te west coast and was in need of oil for a oil change. Dropped into the local yamaha dealer and I told him what I wanted and he told me I was using the wrong oil.... Too thin ,they told me 20W40 We didn't get into whether it had to be synthic or not.
The service manual calls for 20w40 in my 06A.
Too thin, that's funny. Really, we all know regardless of weight, mfr or type:

Clean oil good, dirty oil bad.

My '07 MOM also calls for 20w40 in the specs section. It's prolly just a feel-good thing but in the cooler spring and autumn I use 10w40 and in the heat of our southeast sticky summer I use 20w50.

 
I didn't start using 10-40 in my FJR. The dealer did when Yamaha stopped providing 20-40. My guess is 10-40 is juuuuuuuuust fine.

 
I will be nice...
... and suggest Rotella T 15W-40 for engine oil.

... and Mobil 1 75W-90 LS gear lube for the rear drive!

Let the madness begin. :D
Works in both my FJR and Hondapotamus.

It doesn't hurt that Wally World has the Rotella @ $12.99/gallon.

 
The Rotella synthetic is a 5W30. 100,000+ miles later, it hasn't hurt a thing. (The 5W means that it remains less viscous at lower temperatures but retains viscosity like a 40 weight at higher temperatures.) Great for cold weather! Hell, its all oil and as long as you use something that is remotely close to Yamaha's recommendations, its all good. I don't personally subscribe to the notion that oil has to be changed at shorter intervals than recommended although lots of people like to brag that they change every 2 or 3 k miles using nothing but the best synthetics. In fact, if I am doing long rides under moderate conditions, I have no concern with letting the change go well beyond the recommended range.

 
I'm no oil technician, but my understanding is that the low-temp number isn't that crucial for machines which are typically not used when it's cold, i.e. weather it's 20F or 120F when your bike starts, either 5,10,15 or 20 wt oil would do just fine (as opposed to our cars, which we start at -15F in the winter, and benefit from lower viscosity oil then). The engine quickly warms up and the high-temp viscosity number is "in effect".

Yamaha engineered the engine's oil pump, passageways and bearing clearances to work with the high-temp viscosity required, i.e. 40w. If you run 50w or 30w then the oil flow to those parts are affected. They probably aren't affected much, as there is variance in viscosity between brands and as the oil ages, and I'm sure Yamaha has taken that into account. Still, if I have to choose the most important criteria for oil, I'd do it in this order:

1. Enough.

2. Adequate anti-wear additives remaining (i.e. how "clean" or "new" it is)

3. Not energy-conserving

4. High temp viscosity (40w)

5. Synth vs. Dino

6. Brand

Any disagreements? Discussions?

 
You guys have to back off and give me more time to overthink this.
Be sure you are over thinking the right thing, the (now missing OP) was.........

very confused regarding synthetic and partially synthetic and not synthetic oil
It would be nice if the OP would pop up and respond/reply.

 
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While we're in the longest running non-nerpt oil thread ever, let's throw in one more point of discussion:

The drain bolt.

Do not over-tighten, and the crush washer can be re-used. I've got at least a dozen oil changes on my stock crush washer, still not a drip, no weeping, so how could a new one work any better?

 
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Have I mentioned that compared to Amsoil, everything else is no better than a jug of sandy water ??? Studies show !!!

 
NEPRT or not, same result!

David, NEPRT is Never Ending Pointless and Recurring Threads. Oil discussions have long been considered the king of these threads and any thread starter like the one you started has mercilessly been moved to that forum...until now. You are a rare survivor. A beginning of a kinder gentler FJRForum. And yet,

Holy crap...guess that's the last time I'll be asking a question!
Your moderators will greatly appreciate your contribution. Most of us have been watching this thread continue in Technical and Mechanical Problems forum with our jaw on the floor. I'm waiting to hear when the services for Iggy are scheduled.

 
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And never forget, while a thread in NEPRT ain't exactly a "Badge of Honor", there's no shame to be attached to it.

But how-in-the-hell has THIS thread remained "free range" for so long???
tongue.png


I'm guessing Bounce is keeping a low profile, Iggy is recovering from a serious blow to the head, and SkootiePoo don't give a ****????

 
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