Motorcycle Observations in Europe

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hppants

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I just returned from 12 days in Europe with my family. It was my first trip there, and of course, I enjoyed every minute of it. We traveled to Barcelona, Spain, Marseilles, Provence in France, Monaco and Monte Carlo, Florence, Rome, Sorrento, and Pompeii, Italy, and even spent 1 afternoon in Vatican City.

Motorcycles in Europe are a world different from the United States. Fuel is EXTREMELY expensive. Converted to American dollars, gasoline varied in price from a low of about $7.00 per gallon in Barcelona to a high of almost $11.00 per gallon in the South of Italy. Because of this, small bikes (less than 500 cc) are much more prevalent and scooters are hugely popular. The vast majority of the bikes have some kind of wind screen and a hard top box installed. 2-up riding is as normal as solo-riding. All of the places I visited have helmet laws, but otherwise, like the States, the vast majority of the riders don’t wear any other protective gear.

Overwhelmingly, most bikes are Japanese. Ironically, perhaps only 2-3 percent were Italian (of those mostly Ducati) or English (all Triumph) bikes. There were a few Chinese and Korean scooters, and I saw only 3 Harley Davidsons the entire trip – each one was being saddled by a Pirate, presumably playing the part.

Couple of other “traffic” observations - First, everyone uses turn signals religiously. Overall, both bikers and cages seem to accelerate and brake a bit harder than we do. Not surprisingly, the French tend to ride/drive a bit slower. Equally predictably, ALL Italians regard the speed limit as a mere suggestion. Europeans use painted road markings more effectively – these are easier to spot and read than a sign lost on the side of the road.

Regardless, there are similarities between us. I had an opportunity to talk with several European bikers and they were just as eager to learn about my experiences as I was there’s. Most of them are full timers – using the bike for commuting and as primary transportation. But the love of riding is still there – and I know that our brotherhood (and sisterhood) is world wide.

Lane splitting on a motorcycle is lawful everywhere in Europe and observing it from a distance gave me quite a pucker at times. Bikers over there are zipping in and out of traffic, taking huge chances that 4-wheeled motorists will see them and yield when necessary. Funny thing is – it clearly works. I never saw 1 motor vehicle accident the whole time. 4-wheeled motorists seem to respect the bikers and actively look for them in all driving situations.

I took a few pictures to share with you.

Once again, any bike over 500 cc in Spain is extremely rare (perhaps less than 2%), but when one is found, it’s usually a BMW adventure bike.

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In Italy, larger bikes are more prevalent. The aftermarket cans on this Duc’ sounded heavenly – I heard him coming from 3 blocks away and I suspect that he wants it that way.

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However, this has got to be the overwhelming favorite – a simple 125cc scooter with a small wind screen and a top box for utility. Note the handlebar lock – when you unlock it from the handlebars, it simply folds over under the seat. I thought that was interesting.

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The Universal Japanese Motorcycle (UJM) is still very much alive and well in Europe. I found a pair of Yamaha Fazer’s in a square in Florence. It would appear that Yamaha has re-incarnated the Fazar name from the 80’s – USA line up.

600 cc, nice “bandit-like” ½ fairing, frame sliders, top box, a beautiful motorcycle. The blue one looks to be the same color as my ’05 FJR.

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Stock exhaust runs under the seat on these.

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I found this GS in Rome while eating my lunch. The top box is home made and the owner was rightfully very proud of his workmanship.

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He turned his nose up on the Aprilla sitting next to him. I politely stayed neutral on the issue.

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IIRC, the side of the engine on this Honda said “636 cc”, but I can’t determine if the engine comes from a Shadow cruiser, something else, or is purpose built for this bike.

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Loads of Honda CB250s throughout the big cities.

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A well maintained Honda CB400 Four – that header is very rare.

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45 liter top box on this little scooter – that’s a lot of groceries!

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In Aix, France, the owner of this gorgeous BMW was not too happy I was taking photographs of it.

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This GSX750 was love at first site for Pants.

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Also, the Honda Hornet (the smaller one) was pretty popular in Italy.

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Many of the scooters have this “skirt” system strapped to go over the riders legs, presumably to keep them dryer during rain storms.

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Finally, many bicycles are set up this way for toting babies, or a bag of groceries. Not going too fast with that big wind screen, though.

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Although I thought about it, I didn’t rent a bike while I was there. My family would have objected to the time away. Besides – the traffic was very heavy in the big cities and I would have been pretty nervous without all of my gear. But there will be a next time and I’ll think about it more then.

 
Nice write-up, and interesting pics. I was in Germany for 10 days in late May and observed the two wheel habits as well. I was very surprised there were so few BMW bikes as compared to Japanese models. Even is Munich the HQ for BMW there were relative few BMW motorcycles on the streets. The German economy is by far the most prosperous in Europe and the vehicles reflect same. The price of gasoline in Germany was on average $7.50/gallon. As is the case throughout Europe it is priced by the litre.

Germans are very good drivers and contrast greatly from the Med countries. They observe the traffic laws and are quick to flash their highs on anyone who dares to sit in the passing lane. There is no speed limit on the open areas of the Autobahn and motorcycles as well as cars commonly move at 100+mph. Don't recall seeing lane splitting but was not looking for it.

 
Yeah those Fazers are sold here too, you know. The FZ6, and the FZ1. I had an 05 FZ6, traded in for the 06 FZ1, which then became the 09 FJR.

 
Good Stuff 'pants! Way back in '84 I took a trip to Europe and realized they were more serious about motorcycles than we Americans. I was fascinated with some of the midsize models that were so popular there were not even available here. They probably would not have sold here but I was envious.

Glad you and your family are back home. I hope your trip was a good one.

 
To add a little:

Lane splitting in Germany is illegal.

I beg to differ on use of indicators, I find many European (including UK) drivers are either very late using them, or don't use them at all. Germany is a little different, there it is mandatory to use your indicators if you want to switch lanes, not sure of the exact requirement but I think they must be on for at least three seconds before you start to change direction. (My wife's Audi will always give a minimum of three flashes even if you just momentarily use the indicator switch.)

Most Continental drivers are motorcycle-friendly, will move over to give you room, even putting their nearside wheels onto a grass verge to give you room to overtake - often on a blind corner, so only accept their invitation if you are sure it's safe! In Italy it appears to be mandatory for drivers to overtake on blind corners. In the UK, motorcycles are less common, and generally ignored by motorists.

In the UK, road rules are generally adhered to apart from speed limits, but be wary. Watch out for speed cameras and traffic light cameras. And police cars sitting on bridges over motorways and faster roads, also police in lay-bys. They will give you a bit of leeway, but don't push your luck. Watch out for average speed cameras, some set up permanently, some temporarily through roadworks; always there will be warning signs. Where there are normal cameras the whole route will have periodic signs. For average speed cameras there will be a sign as you approach the section, there may be repeating signs through the section (but no sign when it ends!). And, UK only, cameras are made very visible, generally painted bright yellow (though a few are grey). If you are going along a road and drivers in front slow for no apparent reason (often quite suddenly), it's usually because they've seen a camera - even if they are below the limit. On the Continent, at least in France and Spain, they are signed a couple of kilometres before the camera. But the cameras are set in anonymous grey boxes that merge into other street furniture, so not easy to spot.

Speed limits are strictly enforced in France in particular. 1kph over the limit will get you an on-the-spot fine. They love catching Brits (and others) on the approach roads to ferry ports. They only accept cash, and will escort you to an ATM to get the cash. If you can't get cash, they will impound your vehicle. No, I haven't been caught (yet).

Whereas in some European countries traffic lights are treated as suggestions, in the UK they are obeyed, except by the odd amber-gambler and, of course, cyclists, who are a law unto themselves. In the UK, lane splitting is perfectly legal (actually quietly encouraged), but most drivers will be unaware of your approach and may switch lanes without looking for you. Some will see you and make a bit of space, heavy goods drivers are generally helpful. A few motorists will try to block you. Weaving in and out of lanes is frowned upon. Overtaking on the nearside is generally illegal.

In the UK you should always assume you are invisible. In the rest of Europe motorcyclists (and scooters) are more common, therefore expected by drivers, but occasionally they won't see you, so it's safest to assume invisibility.

In the UK, doing anything while driving is illegal, so using a handheld phone, drinking, taking a bite out of an apple, using a camera, all are offences even if sat stationary at traffic lights. Other European countries have similar laws, particularly on using mobile phones.

All western European countries require motorcyclists to wear properly marked helmets, none require any other protective gear, though some require high visibly vests or equivalent. Check before you go. The law in France is that you must have high visibility jacket (or at least a defined area of reflective material), also you must have an alcohol testing kit so they can test you. But, being France, these laws are currently not in effect. No, I don't understand it either.

Some countries require you to have carnets to use motorways (effectively a one-off toll payment), e.g. Switzerland. How you get these depends on the country.

Oh, yes, in the UK we drive on the left. Easy to forget, particularly if using some of the single-lane roads in Scotland.

Don't be put off driving/riding in Europe, there are some fabulous roads, scenery, food, very friendly locals. I've enjoyed thousands of miles in the UK (unsurprisingly) and several tours on the Continent.

 
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Mcatrophy - thanks for your post. Admittedly, my very short visit to only part of Europe doesn't make me an expert at anything.

In each country (Spain, France, and Italy), we booked tours that required a significant ride in a cage (Bus or private charter). I encouraged my family on this because my highest priority on any vacation is to see the land and the people. I enjoyed watching our driver and other drivers while we were in route. I concur with you regarding France - all people followed the speed limit religiously. They would stomp the accelerator from stop, and back off just as abruptly at the speed limit. By contrast, EVERYONE in Italy (at least along the Mediterranean coast) abuses the speed limit. Our driver in the Tuscany area provided us with an 9 passenger van (a FANTASTIC Mercedes 3.0 liter TDI vehicle) and fully loaded (we were 8 travelers and 1 driver) we were "cruising" at 145 kilometers per hour (that's just short of 90 mph!!!) in a 110 zone. She blew by a police vehicle parked and barely lifted. Not surprisingly, she was barely keeping up with traffic along that particular rural section.

At least in my observations, I found the use of turn signals by all vehicles to be much more prevalent than here in the States.

Just as a side note regarding cages - out of hundreds (perhaps thousands) of vehicles of all types I observed, the ONLY automatic transmissions I found were on 5 American muscle cars that were participating in a local car show at one of our stops. Europeans like to shift gears themselves.

Finally a question - on the back of large trucks are two stickers that look like speed limit signs. Each has a different number. For example, one truck had a "70" sticker on the left, an "80" on the right. Exactly what does that mean?

 
Great report Pants! I've been to Athens a few times and it's no different...HUGE numbers of motorcycles and scooters of all varieties (never saw any Hardleys) packed onto the sidewalks and every nook and cranny. Never rode anything on the mainland, but spent a lot of time riding a scooter all over Mykonos...FUN, although the scooter had a hard time with some of the hills on that island, lol. A lot of quasi motorcycles/scooters there as well. Fun stuff.

 
Always interesting to hear about the differences - and similarities - between them and us. Thanks for sharing.
+1, Gunny; I had ridden the streets of Southern California for five years before being stationed in Bavaria, Germany for two years in the US Army, I was always highly impressed by how extremely well Europeans operated their motor vehicles and were very courteous to Motorcyclists!

 
Finally a question - on the back of large trucks are two stickers that look like speed limit signs. Each has a different number. For example, one truck had a "70" sticker on the left, an "80" on the right. Exactly what does that mean?
In some European countries, heavy vehicles are restricted to lower speed limits, unless they carry a sticker indicating that they will go faster :)

 
Finally a question - on the back of large trucks are two stickers that look like speed limit signs. Each has a different number. For example, one truck had a "70" sticker on the left, an "80" on the right. Exactly what does that mean?
In some European countries, heavy vehicles are restricted to lower speed limits, unless they carry a sticker indicating that they will go faster :)
Correct. Without knowing the rules for that particular country, I'd guess the 70 would be the allowed kph on single carriageway roads, 80 on dual carriageway.

 
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Someone at another forum proclaimed that no self-respecting Pants report would be complete without food porn. Good point:

(Disclaimer – some words may not be spelled correctly. I’m no Hemmingway!)

A popular Spanish dish is Paella. Rice is mixed with seasonings and vegetables and baked in a cast iron skillet. You can get it vegan or with chicken/pork, but on the Mediterranean coast, seafood seemed like the best choice for Pants. That thing with the long claws is actually a member of the lobster family and he was scrumptious!

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Tapas dishes of all kinds are hugely popular in Spain. Here, we’ve chosen Proschutto, some smoked sausage, smoked artichoke hearts (OMG!!), a crab fritter, spanish quiche, and a local cheese with a smoked flavor.

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A bakery in Marsailles, France.

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Salads and beer in Provence, France.

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Here’s a market in Nice, France (which was very nice, if you’ll pardon the pun).

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Our tour guide prepared this chicken lunch for us on the French Riveria. The wine served with this meal was absolutely delicious.

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At the same place, we had this chocolate sponge cake with cream for dessert. THIS is pure sex, man.

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In Europe, you order a coffee and you get about ¾ oz of used motor oil.

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Here’s a large market in Florence, Italy. The hanging meats and cheeses and fresh produce …. Holy crap that place was excellent.

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In Rome, we ate at this café’. You could choose from the buffet

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But we ordered off the menu and shared. Here some spinach ravioli (Mama Mia)

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Lasagna…

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The pizza in Italy is very thin and light crust, very thin and light sauce, the most delicious provolone and mozzarella cheese you can imagine, fresh basil, and then the ingredient of your choice (Proschutto for me, Marguaretta for my wife)

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In Sorrento, we were treated to a nice brunch at the lemon and oil farm.

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Lemon orchard

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Olive Orchard

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Here’s another market in the old part of Sorrento. Take note of the peach that is just right of the cherries. It’s shaped like an heirloom tomato and it taste like the most wonderful candy you have ever had. I must have eaten a dozen of those suckers.

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Unusual looking beans at this place.

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We found this bushel of lemons in Pompeii. They are the size of Cantelopes! Those are large navel oranges next to them.

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Bon Appetite!!!

 
Someone at another forum proclaimed that no self-respecting Pants report would be complete without food porn...
...That thing with the long claws is actually a member of the lobster family and he was scrumptious!...

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...Bon Appetite!!!
Looks like a stew-pendus, err stupendous trip! Your pictures are making me hungry! The lobster thingi is the Langoustines model of lobster. When they are fresh they are wonderful, when they are frozen they are useless.

 
Finally a question - on the back of large trucks are two stickers that look like speed limit signs. Each has a different number. For example, one truck had a "70" sticker on the left, an "80" on the right. Exactly what does that mean?
In some European countries, heavy vehicles are restricted to lower speed limits, unless they carry a sticker indicating that they will go faster
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Correct. Without knowing the rules for that particular country, I'd guess the 70 would be the allowed kph on single carriageway roads, 80 on dual carriageway.
The double stickers can relate speed for the type of road, and for the weight.

You also should have an international drivers license, which is just an excuse to shell out $65 (iirc) to the AAA before you go. I regularly forget mine at home and rent without it, but think things could get sticky at a police checkpoint.

 
You also should have an international drivers license, which is just an excuse to shell out $65 (iirc) to the AAA before you go. I regularly forget mine at home and rent without it, but think things could get sticky at a police checkpoint.
The international drivers permit is only $15. The only reason to have it is it provides some translation to other languages for non English speaking/reading cops. I have heard it recommended that if stopped you only give them the international permit unless forced to produce your real license, just in case they decide they want to keep it. I rode in a spirited fashion through 7 countries without needing mine. Being VERY aware of speed cameras is uber important.

https://www.aaa.com/vacation/idpf.html

 
I've been able to rent cars in Ireland and Italy with just my Stateside Drivers License. In or near cities in Italy and France was where I saw lots of bikes, with a heavy preponderance of scooters. But then on the motorways between cities it seemed to me motorcycles were very rare compared to the States.

It seemed very rare to see motorcycles or scooters in Ireland, and I've been around that country quite a bit. Certainly nothing like the swarms of scooters and such in Paris, Milan, and Rome.

 
I've been to several European countries and have always been impressed at how integrated motorbikes are into everyday living.

I was in Barcelona in the 90s and the Ramblas was just wall to wall bikes and scooters. We'd go out for drinks in the evening (and into the morning) and what surprised me was the number of people carrying helmets that had casts on or sporting serious road rash.

In Rome, it was interesting to watch traffic at a stop light. All the bikes and scooters would filter up to the front. When the light turned green, it was like the start of a GP race. We constantly heard sirens while we were there. Not sure if it was for bikes, pedestrians, or others. You took your life in your hands trying to cross a busy street on foot.

I saw a nasty bike crash in Paris on the way back to the airport. Saw more bikes filtering thru traffic on the ride from the airport than I would see in a year of daily commuting in DC.

I would love to ride through the mountains in Europe. We drove a bit in the Pyrenees in France and I was wishing I was on a bike.

 
A couple of summers ago we were walking down a side street in Rome and passed a fenced in courtyard of what must have been a police station. Suddenly out of it came three fully marked adventure-type bikes (didn't notice what they were) with lights and sirens wailing. What stopped me in my tracks though was the first bike had two uniformed LEOs on it, one riding passenger and holding onto the rider. The second and third were single riders but then the third stopped in the street with the rider looking back over his shoulder. Out of the courtyard came running a fifth LEO and he jumped on the back of the stopped bike. I didn't mean to laugh but . . . .

 
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