My Audiovox CCS-100 stopped working

[Bill]

After 3 years, my Audiovox CCS-100 suddenly stopped working. When I turn it on, the green light illuminates but when I try to set it... it just won't engage.

I checked the chain and the throttle cable. There's virtually no slack and the vacuum fitting is snug and exactly where it's supposed to be.

What should I check next?

 

[JamesK]

Just a thought, but maybe one of your brake lights burnt out (effecting the +12V on the line) and is confusing the CCS into thinking that the brakes are being applied. Or if you have a resistor or relay to isolate this circuit maybe check that. Did you recently install LED bulbs for the Brake/Tail lights?

 

[Bill]

Just a thought, but maybe one of your brake lights burnt out (effecting the +12V on the line) and is confusing the CCS into thinking that the brakes are being applied. Or if you have a resistor or relay to isolate this circuit maybe check that. Did you recently install LED bulbs for the Brake/Tail lights?

No burnt out bulbs, no recently installed LED bulbs and the unit was installed by Smitty. I don't know if he used a resistor or relay to isolate the circuit as the Audiovox was installed a few months before I purchased the bike.

 

[wfooshee]

Just a quick run-through of quick electrical checks:

Red wire to the servo MUST have 12 volts. That's usually wired to the hot side of the brake light switch, but on Gen-IIs that's inconvenient, so it's sometimes just taken off the blue wire to the tail lights. Anyway, 12 volts on red to servo.

Purple wire to servo. 12 volts with brakes on, 0 volts with brakes off. Any voltage on this wire will prevent engagement of the cruise.

Black wire to servo must be grounded. No ground, no workie.

Blue wire to servo. Must be connected to ignition coil to get tach signal. Can't check with voltmeter. I think you can see something about this with the LED in the servo, but I don't remember how to check. Somebody step up, please. You can read AC volts on this wire, and the LED in the servo housing flashes according to this signal, i.e. faster with higher engine speed.

Brown wire in control pad harness. 12 volts with the pad on button pressed, remains 12 after releasing the on button. Goes to 0 with the off button pressed.

Green wire in control pad harness. 12 volts when set/coast is pressed.

Yellow wire in control pad harness. 12 volts when resume/accel is pressed.

Vacuum checks:

Let the engine idle. Shut it off, remove the vacuum hose where the cruise taps and put a cap on the port you removed the hose from. Start the engine and let it idle. If it's any different from before, then there's a vacuum leak in the hose to the servo somewhere, including possibly the servo itself (which equals "toss it.")

 

[BikerGeek99]

Have you ridden in any heavy rain lately? The rain at ... uh ... SFO '09 I think; can't remember for sure now - killed the control pad on my CCS.

I was able to get a replacement from extrememarine off his departed '04, and gave my crudded-up one to ionbeam to rehab. If you are able to determine that the issue is your control pad, you may want to think about sending him a PM to see if he still has my old one laying around.

Good luck. Mine has been acting up lately, but I think I know the problem.

 

[FastJoyRide]

My control pad threw a hissy fit, but Griff and FJRGuy were able to jumper a work-around for me while we were in Calgary enroute to CFR this year. Bascially we disabled the on/off switch so that when the ignition is on, so is the CC. It still works fine, but I will have to keep my eye open for a new control pad at some point.

 

[NSrider]

Mine quit working at the beginning of the season, the problem turned out to be a loose connection to the brake light wire.

Dave, I have a control pad that I don't have a use for. It's yours if you want it.

 

[Constant Mesh]

They don't last forever. My AVCC started misbehaving after six years of flawless service. External circuitry and/or vacuum wasn't the problem. Something in the servo began misbehaving. I swapped in a new servo, plugged in the old wiring terminal and vacuum connection and it worked like new.

The old servo worked sporadically but it always went kaput after a few minutes of sustained operation. I took it apart and didn't see anything that was obviously wrong. But I didn't check the diaphragm's integrity. Didn't want to dig into it that deeply.

 

[SnowAviation]

Slightly unrelated: I found one for sale - cheap.

https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/1901889931.html

 

[FastJoyRide]

Mine quit working at the beginning of the season, the problem turned out to be a loose connection to the brake light wire.
Dave, I have a control pad that I don't have a use for. It's yours if you want it.

PM sent Kevin - Thanks!

 

[Patriot]

Blue wire to servo. Must be connected to ignition coil to get tach signal. Can't check with voltmeter. I think you can see something about this with the LED in the servo, but I don't remember how to check. Somebody step up, please.

manual states: Blue wire - Engine RPM -> "increasing A/C voltage with engine speed"

 

[wfooshee]

AC???!!! What's that? I don't use any of that anywhere!!

 

[BumbleDB]

Did you ever figure out what happened?

Mine quit working sometime back too. Thing had probably only been used ~20 times.

I had started looking at it when you started this thread. All the controls and wiring checked

out ok, so I finally opened the servo up last night. I'm impressed with how easy the servo

breaks down into it's individual components. The vacuum cylinder is ok, the 3 actuators

are good, so all that leaves is the circuit board. Had it under the magnifying glass, no

broken components or such, looks good.

Guess my next step will be to pull the 555 timer chip from my home-built turn signal

time out and 'breadboard' up a fake tach signal so I can probe the circuit board for

further diagnosis. Doubt it will do me much good, but we'll see.

I suspect that the driver chip for the actuators might have gone bad, but that's just a

guess.

 

[FastJoyRide]

Mine quit working at the beginning of the season, the problem turned out to be a loose connection to the brake light wire.
Dave, I have a control pad that I don't have a use for. It's yours if you want it.

PM sent Kevin - Thanks!

The new control pad arrived today - thanks again Kevin!

 

[Bill]

Did you ever figure out what happened?
Mine quit working sometime back too. Thing had probably only been used ~20 times.

I had started looking at it when you started this thread. All the controls and wiring checked

out ok, so I finally opened the servo up last night. I'm impressed with how easy the servo

breaks down into it's individual components. The vacuum cylinder is ok, the 3 actuators

are good, so all that leaves is the circuit board. Had it under the magnifying glass, no

broken components or such, looks good.

Guess my next step will be to pull the 555 timer chip from my home-built turn signal

time out and 'breadboard' up a fake tach signal so I can probe the circuit board for

further diagnosis. Doubt it will do me much good, but we'll see.

I suspect that the driver chip for the actuators might have gone bad, but that's just a

guess.

Haven't had the time to check it out yet.

 

[BumbleDB]

This is probably more info than anyone cares for, but......

Been pissing around with the servo circuit board on the bench.

Seems I can get it to work if I set dip switch #7 to off and supply a square wave input.

Switch 7 sets coil or ECM signal as input.

I'd like to believe that the ECM has a tach signal output, but none of the manuals show that.

It would have to be an unused pin. The manual shows a 2 wire feed to all the instrument

meters, so it must use some kind of serial communication? Wish I could find the full pin-out

list for the ECM.

Anyway, I'll probably build a simple circuit to provide an ECM style tach signal to the cruise,

fed off of the coil line. Shouldn't be too difficult, transistor and a couple of resistors. I've got

plenty of those around here, so it will save me the cost of a whole new kit. Audiovox does not

sell parts for this kit that I can find.

I'm tempted to hook up the speed sensor at some point too. A quick look at the wiring diagram

and I know which wire to use.

I hope you find something much more simple on yours. I sure wish I had.........

 

[Zorlac]

Thanks for posting up your investigation, it's very interesting to me.

I've read with dismay about many CCS100 failures, at least now I have an option to try if mine goes TU.

Good luck with preconditioning the coil signal, it shouldn't be too hard, please post back if it works out.

Thanks

 

[olsonm3915]

I'm tempted to hook up the speed sensor at some point too. A quick look at the wiring diagram and I know which wire to use.

Don't overlook the KISS method- you can always try putting a strong magnet on a brake rotor and putting a reed switch next to it, cable tied to the fork leg, or a similar thing on the rear disk. You probably don't even have to epoxy the magnet in place if it's strong enough. It's what I did to get a bicycle speedometer fitted to my wife's EX250. Your CCS-100 may or may not respond to the switch closure but you could always adapt the output of the switch to trigger a pulse generator signal.

 

[wfooshee]

As for tach signal from the ECU, there's not one, just the inputs into the ECU. All communication from the ECU to the meters panel is encoded, and decoded by the meter electronics.

The speed sensor on the FJR is too many pulses for the Audiovox. You'll need a divide-by-eight or so to make it usable.

As for the unit itself, there's an LED inside the device on the circuit board near the switches. Does that LED flash, and change rate with engine speed? If so, then the tach signal is not your problem. Failure to engage is usually electrical, then, and most commonly with the purple wire not being grounded when the brakes are off. If there is ANY voltage at the purple wire, the cruise will not set. I listed other electrical checks in post 4 above.