My take on the CCS-100 install

[Dangerous Dave]

Finally got my CCS-100 installed today. A rather tedious job I'd have to say, at least to make it a nice installation. The online instructions for the FJR install were VERY helpful. There was however one part where I took a different route, and it worked out very well. The instructions have you tapping into the rear brake light switch, I preferred to tap into the front brake light switch, since that's the brake I ALWAYS cover. I know there are some very valid arguments for tapping into the rear switch, this was just my preference. The reason I say my idea worked out very well is because of connector location and available power sources. Check out this picture:

What you're looking at here is the connector for the front brake light switch. It just happens to be directly under where you're most likely to be routing in your control panel wiring and placing the connector! The solid brown wire is the hot input to the front brake light switch. The green with yellow tracer is the switched side of the brake light switch. The red with black tracer is a separate 12v switched source. So right there is everything I need in the same location! My gray wire for switch illumination doesn't really need to go to the running light wire (too far away), since you have illumination on the bike whenever the key is on anyway. So I just scotch-locked the illumination wire to the 12v switched power wire and I'm good to go. Road test went fine and all is right in my little FJR world. Here's how it looked "under the hood" when all was said and done:

Did I mention it was a tedious job??

 

[Pappy]

Do you ABS? If yes, where did you put the servo? It looks like the cable is coming from the front of the bike?



Pappy

 

[skyway]

Do you ABS? If yes, where did you put the servo? It looks like the cable is coming from the front of the bike?


Pappy

ABS or not, the cable is looping around to orientate to the throttle cable and tang. Probably hidden under one of the little rubber pieces at either side of the tank?

ABS here also. Followed ionbeam's slick mounting position and went right behind the left passenger footpeg. B)

 

[BrunDog]

...There was however one part where I took a different route, and it worked out very well. The instructions have you tapping into the rear brake light switch, I preferred to tap into the front brake light switch, since that's the brake I ALWAYS cover. I know there are some very valid arguments for tapping into the rear switch, this was just my preference. The reason I say my idea worked out very well is because of connector location and available power sources....

Just an FYI...

It doesn't matter which switch you "tap" into. Both the front and rear brake switches power to the the same circuit (positive side of brake lights). When you connect the brake interrupt signal to the CC, it gets it's signal from either switch.

All of our installations should have it that way - either brake lever should cancel the cruise.

-BD

 

[Pappy]

How about adding the clutch switch to the cut-off? Seems like a good safety feature. My last Accord would cut-off the CC if I so much as breathed on the clutch pedal.

Pappy

 

[Dangerous Dave]

Just an FYI...
It doesn't matter which switch you "tap" into. Both the front and rear brake switches power to the the same circuit (positive side of brake lights). When you connect the brake interrupt signal to the CC, it gets it's signal from either switch.

All of our installations should have it that way - either brake lever should cancel the cruise.

-BD

Now why the hell didn't I think of that??? They both terminate at the same lamp...they'd have to feedback through each other. :blushing:

Oh well, it still worked out well since all my wires ended up in the same place. I just had to fish the tach wire across to the other side and didn't have to run one to the running lamp wire.

My bike is a non-abs, so servo placement was a no brainer. I also used the idea someone else mentioned here (sorry, can't remember who) and used a metal canister type EFI fuel filter for a vacuum reserve canister which I mounted to the black steel crossbar right behind the servo.

And Pappy, the clutch cancel switch isn't necesary here. The cruise unit uses the tach signal, and if it detects a sudden surge in rpm, it automatically cancels the cruise. So pulling in the clutch will cancel the cruise anyway.

I'm lucky here in that working in a shop, I was able to scrounge up everything I needed without having to buy anything else but the cruise unit itself. Pretty much everything else came out of my toolbox. I dare say this will prove to be a very useful toy.

 

[BrunDog]

How about adding the clutch switch to the cut-off? Seems like a good safety feature. My last Accord would cut-off the CC if I so much as breathed on the clutch pedal.
Pappy

You can't just tie it in - squeezing the clutch would either light the brake lights or pop the brake lights' fuse, depending on which (+12V or GND) signal it switches. Either way, not desireable. Of course, it could be isolated with a relay. Nonetheless, DD is correct - pulling the clutch will cancel the CC when the rpm squirts up a little. This works very well.

DD: Your rear brake should still cancel the CC. The front and back brake switches are tied together (in parallel). Try it!

-BD

 

[radman]

I (actually, Shane) tied in at the ABS unit. Makes for an extremely short wire run. As well as the AV unit works, I cannot for the life of me understand why anyone would spend 6 c notes for a plug in cruise that is apparently just as involved installation wise. Nor can I imagine a unit that works better than this.

 

[Toecutter]

Finally got my CCS-100 installed today.  A rather tedious job I'd have to say, at least to make it a nice installation...  Did I mention it was a tedious job??

So what did you do to mount the control panel? Got a piccie of that? I'm a Skyway bracket waiter myself.

Also, I was wondering if there might be a spot big enough for the servo where the CA charcoal canister goes. I don't have one of those but could check into it once I get home to my service manual. Mine's ABS so that spot's out and I'm still hesitant to lose the underseat tray if it's not absolutely necessary.

 

[yamaholic]

How about adding the clutch switch to the cut-off? Seems like a good safety feature. My last Accord would cut-off the CC if I so much as breathed on the clutch pedal.

The CC hooks into the coil and senses an RPM drop such as using the clutch. If you pull in the clutch, it does de-activate the cruise control until you press resume.

So you're good there already

 

[Dangerous Dave]

So what did you do to mount the control panel? Got a piccie of that? I'm a Skyway bracket waiter myself.

The Skyway bracket is a nice piece for sure. Mine can't compare looks-wise, but his was out of my price range. I saw a pic on ebay from this guy who sells a "kit" to install on the Concourse. The bracket shown on this auction site is simple but functional. I basically copied it from a piece of scrap aluminum, but without the toggle switch on top or the relief in the side for the "old school" choke lever. You can see his here.

I'm sure BD is right about the brake light wiring, but like I said, it's "one-stop-shopping" at the blue connector up front.

 

[zorkler]

how much does it cost ? and do you have the site ?

 

[Dangerous Dave]

how much does it cost ? and do you have the site ?

Ummmm, you mean for the Skyway bracket, or the Concourse kit? :huh: