My Valve Check/CCT replacement Moral Support Thread

[hppants]

My buddy that was planning to come to the shop yesterday and help me with my valve check and CCT replacement is going to be tied up for a while. He's a sole proprietor and I certainly get that business comes first.

So I'm probably going to have to tackle this job myself.

I've printed and read/studied (many times) the pictorials. I'm anticipating at least 2 shim replacements because during the last check, 2 of my exhaust valves were right on the edge of tight. I've torn everything down to the cam cover and stopped last night. Later this week or weekend I'll continue....

Last night I told wifey, in the most serious and matter of fact way I know, that if she happens to be wandering near the shop and it looks like I've painted my motorcycle, I haven't. My wrenching session has gone south beyond salvage, I said the hell with it, sold it for parts, and bought another FJR. At that point we can argue the decision, and I will fully admit my fault, but I will have already done the deed so it will be a small price to pay for getting another motorcycle.

I'll use this thread for specific concerns along the way. Any moral support offered in the mean time will not be turned away.

 

[graler]

You are good enough, you are smart enough, and doggone it, people like you.

Casting positive thoughts your direction.

 

[BkerChuck]

No pressure but in light of the quality of your ride reports, we'll be expecting an equal quality wrench report. With photos!

Seriously, just take your time and be diligent.

 

[Surly]

I too shall be waiting on the detailed progress. I think that one the biggest issues is to secure that timing chain with cable ties. A dealer changed my CCT and I don't believe that this simple preventive measure was done.

I had no end of trouble getting it sorted.

Best of luck

Surly

 

[Spud]

Taking it apart is pretty easy. It's putting it all together again that can be tricky....

A couple of tips: One, if the valve cover gasket looks good and is nicely stuck in place, I'd leave it alone. I replaced mine and it became somewhat of an adventure to get the valve cover back on w/the gasket in place.

Two: to check your clearances, you can save a step by just putting the bike in 5th gear and bumping the rear wheel forward by hand. This probably is a two person solution though....

Good luck.

 

[bhendron]

Pants, I Did my CCT last year and just checked my valve clearances this weekend. However, I tried to get by with generic o-rings on the coolant pipe and quickly discoverd a coolant leak around the pipe upon start-up. Bike was fine apart from that. This 'how-to' was very helpful: https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html

The factory service manual was so vauge... However, the method described in above link IS a bit different in at least one aspect. The author says to check clearances simply by rotating cam lobes on the cyclinder being measured just so they are 180 degrees from the block (pointing straight up). The FSM instructs you to start with cyclinder one at TDC (timing mark on crank shaft lined-up with the mark under the timing cover. At TDC on the compression stroke, the lobes on cyclinder one are pointing away from each other. At this position it instructs you to measure both intake and exhaust valves on cylinder one (cylinder furthest from cam chain). Then, turn crank 180 degrees and cam lobes on cylinder two should be facing away from each other, measure those valves. Then turn 180 degrees more (360 deg) and cylinder 4 cam lobes should be facing away from each other, measure those. Then turn a further 180 deg (540 deg total from start) and lobes on cylinder three should be facing away from each other; measure those and you're done. As long as they're all in spec. Mine were, thank goodness.

So that 's as far as I took it. This was my first time performing this proceedure on any bike, so take heart, it can be done.

I welcom any comments or corrections to what I stated above. As I said, my first time.

 

[majicmaker]

Pants, go ahead and scrape a few knuckles until good and bloody. Bang your thumb with a hammer until it's blue and noticeably swollen. Go pick out a new bike and bring it home. If you've never ever done anything like that before, she'll completely understand and kiss your boo boos.

On a side note: Don't get pissed when she comes home scraped up pretty bad with the keys to her new 5 series BMW.

 

[rPGoatBoy]

The factory service manual was so vauge... However, the method described in above link IS a bit different in at least one aspect. The author says to check clearances simply by rotating cam lobes on the cyclinder being measured just so they are 180 degrees from the block (pointing straight up). The FSM instructs you to start with cyclinder one at TDC (timing mark on crank shaft lined-up with the mark under the timing cover. At TDC on the compression stroke, the lobes on cyclinder one are pointing away from each other. At this position it instructs you to measure both intake and exhaust valves on cylinder one (cylinder furthest from cam chain). Then, turn crank 180 degrees and cam lobes on cylinder two should be facing away from each other, measure those valves. Then turn 180 degrees more (360 deg) and cylinder 4 cam lobes should be facing away from each other, measure those. Then turn a further 180 deg (540 deg total from start) and lobes on cylinder three should be facing away from each other; measure those and you're done. As long as they're all in spec. Mine were, thank goodness.
So that 's as far as I took it. This was my first time performing this proceedure on any bike, so take heart, it can be done.

I welcom any comments or corrections to what I stated above. As I said, my first time.

A little bit overthought, but it's not your fault. The procedure in the service manual works fine I'm sure, however it is unnecessarily complicated.

When you take the measurement:

You can measure at any point between the shim bucket and the 'base circle'. If you're just taking a measurement with no prior loosening of the cam chain, it makes no difference what the crank position is. Rotate the engine in the correct direction to put whatever lobe you want in a measurable orientation.

 

[HotRodZilla]

[No message]

 

[bhendron]

I also just realized that this isn't Pants' first rodeo. He's already done the check before....

 

[hppants]

Yep - I've checked valves before, but this time, I'm 99% sure I'm replacing shims. Also, the CCT.

Oh Well - take a deep breath and jump in.... at least that's what she said!!!

 

[Twigg]

You can measure at any point between the shim bucket and the 'base circle'. If you're just taking a measurement with no prior loosening of the cam chain, it makes no difference what the crank position is. Rotate the engine in the correct direction to put whatever lobe you want in a measurable orientation.

I agree. Every engine manual I have read since 1975 has made this job harder to understand than it needs to be. "When Cyl A is at TDC, measure the Intake valves of Cyl B and the Exh. valves of Cyl C".

I think they do it because it reduces the labor time in a shop that does them a lot.

Simple version ... When the lobe points up, you can measure under it. Just turn the crank until you have done them all. It'll take five minutes longer but you will not get confused.

 

[rbentnail]

Make sure you have an inspection mirror. You'll need it to see the timing marks on the cam shafts. It helps to check the marks immediately after crank/timing and valve covers removal so you know what you're looking for later. Trust me, no matter how careful you are with securing the timing chain to sprockets, when you lift the cam shafts and replace the CCT, ACTUALLY CHECK THE TIMING MARKS!!

Do not assume like so many others that everything is fine and nothing moved, check your work.

 

[hppants]

Didn't get too far last night. One of the cooling tube-to-cylinder head O-rings was seeping a little. When I remove the O-ring from the tube, there is an area where it's kinked a little (it doesn't sit on the shop table in a perfectly round shape). The "how-to" says I should lube the O-rings with "Parker O-ring lube". IF such a product exist in my neck of the woods, I can't find it. Substitute?

So I cleaned up the cooling tube flanges and then got called into action by the Real World Gods. More tonight...

 

[Donal]

Didn't get too far last night. One of the cooling tube-to-cylinder head O-rings was seeping a little. When I remove the O-ring from the tube, there is an area where it's kinked a little (it doesn't sit on the shop table in a perfectly round shape). The "how-to" says I should lube the O-rings with "Parker O-ring lube". IF such a product exist in my neck of the woods, I can't find it. Substitute?
So I cleaned up the cooling tube flanges and then got called into action by the Real World Gods. More tonight...

Your local hardware store should have all sorts of "plumbers grease" - more commonly known as silicone grease.................

 

[bhendron]

Didn't get too far last night. One of the cooling tube-to-cylinder head O-rings was seeping a little. When I remove the O-ring from the tube, there is an area where it's kinked a little (it doesn't sit on the shop table in a perfectly round shape). The "how-to" says I should lube the O-rings with "Parker O-ring lube". IF such a product exist in my neck of the woods, I can't find it. Substitute?
So I cleaned up the cooling tube flanges and then got called into action by the Real World Gods. More tonight...

Your local hardware store should have all sorts of "plumbers grease" - more commonly known as silicone grease.................

I was initially going to use plumbers grease, but ended-up grabbing a small packet of "radiator hose grease", from my local auto parts store (AutoZone if you have them).

 

[hppants]

Thanks for the tip, Bhendron - I picked up a packet of this lubricant on the way home yesterday. Unfortunately, that was almost 8:00 pm so I didn't have any energy to get into the shop.

However, I did look over some videos for more information. Check out this valve shim replacement method - ingenious!!!



Not planning to abandon the tried and true method, but I'm always envious of people that can think out of the box.

Also, MikeP1300 says that if I have to change one shim, I need to do a T/B sync. I think I understand the science behind this (change in flow, change in vacuum, T/B needs to be adjusted to compensate), but I don't have a manometer. I suppose I could buy one, but ever since my carb days, I've always believed that if this ain't broke it should be messed with. What do you say?

 

[BkerChuck]

Parker O-ring lube does exist. I work for a hydraulic repair shop and we use a lot of Parker-Hannifin products. Instead of going out and buying a whole tube of this for what is likely to be a one time use, we use a lot of STP oil treatment as a lubricant for seals and O-rings here. You could also check your local phone book for Hydraulic repairs and see if someone local will just give you a small dab of the lube on a paper towel or something, you won't need much.

 

[SouthernCruizer]

Thanks for the tip, Bhendron - I picked up a packet of this lubricant on the way home yesterday. Unfortunately, that was almost 8:00 pm so I didn't have any energy to get into the shop.
However, I did look over some videos for more information. Check out this valve shim replacement method - ingenious!!!

you can use mine if ya wish. Hardly any miles in it, and it's been garaged all it's life