Unlike on cars, suspension (and its adjustments) doesn't really cause tires to cup. Tires cup due to (low) pressure and loads. So, don't worry too much about that "feature", just don't buy those tires again if the cupping bothers you. Most people find the Bridgestones cup on the front.
I'm assuming that your initial question was regarding what can be done to the stock suspension to make it better, rather than what aftermarket replacements can be bought. Running with that, the adjustments that you have available to you are somewhat limited.
You should start out by trying to get the sags as close as possible and then dial in the damping as good as you can get. Here's a thumbnail sketch on what you want to do:
Front Sag: Put a Tie wrap around one of your inner fork legs. Sit on the bike (feet up if possible) and have an assistant push the tie wrap down so it contacts the lower fork leg slider (dust seal on top). Get off the bike carefully and put the bike up on the center stand without disturbing the tie wrap. Measure the distance from the bottom of the tie wrap and the top of the dust seal and that is your sag. You want it to be between 35 and 45mm for street use. You can make some adjustment with the preload adjuster on the top of the fork caps. Smaller sag will feel firmer.
Rear Sag. Same drill but you need to make weighted and unweighted measurements from the (moving) frame to the (stationary) swing arm or axle. You only have "soft" and "hard" so pick the one that gives you the most appropriate sag. It will probably be "hard."
Once you have your sags as good as you can get them you'll adjust the damping. Starts out with all the damper adjusters dialed all the way out. Set rebound (front and rear) first.
Front Rebound: Sitting on the bike roll it forward. Quickly stab at the front brake to make the fork compress and immediately release it. Watch and feel how the fork responds. You want it to quickly recover to the resting height and not overshoot it. If it overshoots and bounces (it should with no rebound dialed in) add rebound damping a few clicks at a time. Rebound will be on adjuster the top of the fork. Only add enough sop that the fork doesn't bounce. More than that will not help.
Rear rebound: Put the bike on the side stand and stand on the right side (away from the kickstand). With your foot push down on the right side foot peg which will compress the rear shock, and then release it. Watch the rear end for the same overshoot at the top (it should do that with the adjuster all the way open). Add rebound until it just returns to the resting height with no overshoot.
Compression damping on the fork is trickier. You have to ride the bike and "feel" it to adjust. Starting at zero, incrementally increase the damping until the front end of the bike begins to feel "harsh", or too stiff, over bumps. At that point back off the adjusters two or three clicks and that is the best you can do. This should give you the greatest amount of low speed compression damping that you can use. The adjusters (supposedly) only really adjust the slow speed compression circuit as the high speed is controlled by the shims stack in the valve at the bottom of the cartridge. But too much low speed causes the forks to feel rigid on high speed transitions too.
You can influence both high and low speed damping by putting different fork oil in there, but you need to know what your goal is before doing it or you'll go broke buying and changing fork oils.
The stock back shock has no adjustment for compression damping.
These steps should get you very close to the best you can get and then you can make small (1 click) changes from there based on what feels best on the road. To make the suspension any better than this requires re=springing and re-valving at the front, and an aftermarket, more capable shock in the rear.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
