need help - electical

[Vadesign]

I managed to kill my wonderful FJR though I cannot figure out how. I was trying to hook to keyed power so I could use my gps for an upcoming trip. Right next to the battery I found a junction where the battery power and ground came in. The forward slot nearest the center of the bike was hot all the time, and the rearward slot farthest from the center of the bike was hot only when the key was on.

Excellent, I thought -there's my keyed power. I joined in a wire to the ground wire coming from the heated grips to the battery ground, then I clipped a post on my power wire and slid in into the slot that was hot only with the key on. When I tested the gps with the key switched on, I was surprised not to have any power.

Then I hooked the test light to the wire that was hot with the key on, and OF COURSE it's no longer hot with the key on. In a panic I pulled in the clutch and pressed the starter button. NOTHING. Yep, I killed the bike like a fool and now I don't know what to do. I checked the two 15 amp fuses along side the junction, but they both still look fine.

So I need help. What would keep that rearward slot farthest from the center of the bike from coming hot when the key is on (if not those fuses along side the junction. Is there a fuse elsewhere I can check for that main key-on power?

Help!!!

 

[Patriot]

I managed to kill my wonderful FJR though I cannot figure out how. I was trying to hook to keyed power so I could use my gps for an upcoming trip. Right next to the battery I found a junction where the battery power and ground came in. The forward slot nearest the center of the bike was hot all the time, and the rearward slot farthest from the center of the bike was hot only when the key was on.

Excellent, I thought -there's my keyed power. I joined in a wire to the ground wire coming from the heated grips to the battery ground, then I clipped a post on my power wire and slid in into the slot that was hot only with the key on. When I tested the gps with the key switched on, I was surprised not to have any power.

Then I hooked the test light to the wire that was hot with the key on, and OF COURSE it's no longer hot with the key on. In a panic I pulled in the clutch and pressed the starter button. NOTHING. Yep, I killed the bike like a fool and now I don't know what to do. I checked the two 15 amp fuses along side the junction, but they both still look fine.

So I need help. What would keep that rearward slot farthest from the center of the bike from coming hot when the key is on (if not those fuses along side the junction. Is there a fuse elsewhere I can check for that main key-on power?

Help!!!

there's a main 50amp fuse you should check...everything is fused through that

right side in front of the battery

https://fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=17

 

[Vadesign]

The instrument panel lights up when the key is turned on (neutral light goes green, everything). The starter button is just no longer activated and that post I mentioned (rearward outer) is no longer hot. Would the instrument panel light up if my main fuse was blown? Are there other fuses more specific to starting that I can check too?

 

[Vadesign]

The instrument panel lights up when the key is turned on (neutral light goes green, everything). The starter button is just no longer activated and that post I mentioned (rearward outer) is no longer hot. Would the instrument panel light up if my main fuse was blown? Are there other fuses more specific to starting that I can check too?

Nope - just checked the main fuse and it is good. With it out, nothing comes on. With it back in, everything lights up, just still no starter when the starter button is pushed. Does anyone know the fuse for that?

 

[SkooterG]

Photos of the area you are talking about would be helpful.

And that's what you get for trying to wire your gps to switched power. I always wire my gps straight to the battery.

 

[Vadesign]

Photos of the area you are talking about would be helpful.

And that's what you get for trying to wire your gps to switched power. I always wire my gps straight to the battery.

I couldn't feel much worse about it. I just sold the bike this replaced today - so now I have no bike running. I checked the fuses on the other side under the A panel - even the one marked ignition - all of them were fine.

The area in question is under the D panel just to the rear of the battery. In between those two 15 amp fuses run 3 wires. The inward forward wire is always hot. The outward rear wire (red with a white stripe) used to be hot with the key on - until I loaded it with my GPS car adapter and blew something out. At this point I just want to know what so I can fix it and have a starting/running bike. If I ever get back to thinking about the GPS, I'll run it hot right off the battery posts.

I have a picture but am unfamiliar with this site. When I select insert image, it wants an http address, but I don't see how to select the image file from my picture folders.

 

[SkooterG]

For photos, you need to post them to a photo website like photobucket.com (it's free) and then 'link' them here with the URL from the hosting site. Seems complicated at first, but is very simple once you have done it a time or two.

I am still having trouble figuring out what exactly you are talking about, but it sounds like maybe you tried to tap into the pump relay.

I would be looking at those fuses, or the main 50a fues that is somwhere near the front left of the battery cover down below. But since the gauges sweep, and no start, perhaps the starter realy is bad?

Where's ionbeam, Fred W, or wfooshee? Dem dare are the resident EE geeks.

 

[Vadesign]

okay tried photobucket - hope I did it better than the wiring that blew the bike up...

Edit by SkooterG: You were so close!

 

[SkooterG]

Ok, so in the photo those two fuses you see - I do believe those are just 'spares'. You do know that don't you? The 'real' fuses are in there somewhere else. Under the rubber thingies perhaps? And that is the fuel pump relay. I think.

 

[wfooshee]

Starter relay. Red/white wire is switched power from the ignition fuse, but NOT a place to pick up accessory power, I think. Blue/white wire is the other side of the starter relay's coil, and is grounded by the starter interlock relay, that device that looks at the neutral and sidestand switches to decide if running the starter is a good thing to do. The red wire is always hot, and feeds the fuel injection relay. And there is a diode across the starter relay coil, between the red/white and blue/white, which may be the cause of the problem, if something's happened to it. And it's the reason for my "NOT a good place to pick up switched power."

The rubber covers seen there cover the high-current terminals of the relay, the switched side, wich carries full power to the starter when it's cranking. One is direct to the positive battery terminal, the other is direct to the hot terminal on the starter.

I think one of those fuses is the fuel injection fuse, and the other is a spare. Nothing to do with the red/white wire, though. That comes from the ignition fuse is the fuse box. That's the fuse I'd look at. Test it with a meter for continuity, don't just look at it and think it's OK.

Better tap for switched power: the blue wire inside the lowere fairing, or the blue wire in the taillight bundle. That's switched power to the running lights. Use it to trigger a relay that controls a sufficiently fused line from the battery to your accessories.

 

[Vadesign]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!

That sneaky 10 amp ignition fuse LOOKS perfect visually, but it's not. Slipped another 10 amp in there and it fired right up.

I was looking for switched power because I just didn't want to drain the battery in case I forgot to swith the GPS off when I stop. This spooked me pretty bad so I think I'll just go right off the battery terminals.

Visions of having to have my bike hauled to the dealer, them putting me on the rack and extracting every last dime, waiting for EVER for them to even work on it ("we got 300 bikes ahead of you - we should probably get to yours by spring") kept me tossing and turning. Thanks for saving my life!

 

[Big Sky]

This forum has cost dealer service departments $millions.

 

[CAJW]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!

That sneaky 10 amp ignition fuse LOOKS perfect visually, but it's not. Slipped another 10 amp in there and it fired right up.

I was looking for switched power because I just didn't want to drain the battery in case I forgot to swith the GPS off when I stop. This spooked me pretty bad so I think I'll just go right off the battery terminals.

Visions of having to have my bike hauled to the dealer, them putting me on the rack and extracting every last dime, waiting for EVER for them to even work on it ("we got 300 bikes ahead of you - we should probably get to yours by spring") kept me tossing and turning. Thanks for saving my life!

One method for switched power is to run a relay from the low beam wire. This way the relay will only be energized with the engine running and will prevent battery depletion (unless you forget to turn the key off after hitting the engine cut-off switch). Don't connect the GPS or farkle to the low beam light directly just the relay so as not to overload the wire/circuit. Sparkys here on the board will add/flame as appropriate, but you get the idea. More good info here. FJR Tech Barrier Strip

 

[Patriot]

The instrument panel lights up when the key is turned on (neutral light goes green, everything). The starter button is just no longer activated and that post I mentioned (rearward outer) is no longer hot. Would the instrument panel light up if my main fuse was blown? Are there other fuses more specific to starting that I can check too?

Nope - just checked the main fuse and it is good. With it out, nothing comes on. With it back in, everything lights up, just still no starter when the starter button is pushed. Does anyone know the fuse for that?

oh my...check your kill switch position (don't ask me how I know to check)

for your amusement https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=114491

 

[Patriot]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!

That sneaky 10 amp ignition fuse LOOKS perfect visually, but it's not. Slipped another 10 amp in there and it fired right up.

I was looking for switched power because I just didn't want to drain the battery in case I forgot to swith the GPS off when I stop. This spooked me pretty bad so I think I'll just go right off the battery terminals.

Visions of having to have my bike hauled to the dealer, them putting me on the rack and extracting every last dime, waiting for EVER for them to even work on it ("we got 300 bikes ahead of you - we should probably get to yours by spring") kept me tossing and turning. Thanks for saving my life!

ok, now I see you are back in business

NOW INSTALL A FUSE BLOCK FOR YOU ELECTRICAL FARKLES:

put a fuse block under the seat...many have

either a:

Eastern Beaver PC8

https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

Fuze Block FZ1

https://fuzeblocks.com/

(note: I installed a small enough FZ1 in the nose on the right side next to the windshield mechanism arm

the right top panels have to be removed to get to it, so not at all easy to replace fuses like

under the seat)

you can search the forum for more details

hope this helps

Ride Safe,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[majicmaker]

This forum has cost dealer service departments $millions.

AMEN BROTHER!!! :yahoo: This is the Best F@#King Forum EVER!! :lol:

And I love every minute of it! :clapping:

 

[FJReady]

VAdesign,

Here's my recommendation for switched power:

Buy a good 25 amp relay at Radio Crap or other electronics outlet. Wire the feed through a 20 amp fuse to the battery. Wire the trigger of the relay to your headlight circuit. This way you'll only have switched power available when bike is running. You can put other switches in series down stream of this relay if you want.

I did a set up like that on my bike when it was new (7 years ago). I've never had electrical demons or a drained battery.

There's a good write up of the relay install here:My link

Scroll down to:"Using a Relay with the Heat-Troller" section. there you'll find out how to get the headlight circuit wire that gets hot after bike is running.

I have an direct to battery switched circuit also that I use to powering my tank bag(cell phone charger) and battery tender.

Also, what Mike said. Put a fuse block or something to make your electrical farkeling easier. I put a connection strip under my glove box for that purpose.

It takes a little time to get it all set up and all, but its worth it.

 

[madmike2]

And that's what you get for trying to wire your gps to switched power. I always wire my gps straight to the battery.

Yep! Sorry, but one of my "getting off the bike" rituals is to check the GPS.

I want mine "hot" all the time so I can program or check the unit without having the ignition on.

This is not rocket science...this is not rocket science...this is not rocket science...

HOWEVER....everything else I have is run through a fuse block and is switched. My switched power source for the relay is the windshield retract...

 

[wfooshee]

This way you'll only have switched power available when bike is running. after the engine has started.

Fixt. Just for minor detail.

The lights can stay on after the motor shuts down, if something other than the key shuts the motor off. Like sidestand switch, tipover switch, kill switch, or just a plain ol' stall.

Granted, with the bike not running and the headlights on, the GPS will be the least of your battery drain worries . . . .