Need some help with wiring a fuzeblock

[BLS]

I've ordered the fuseblock mount that Art makes (he's a member here...Road Runner I believe is his username) and will be mounting under the passenger seat.

I've gotten the wiring harness and fuzeblock (FZ I think).

A couple of technical questions I have and have had trouble finding any definitive answers on.

1. If I'm going to run the initial positive/negative lines from the battery back to the Fuzeblock, do I also want to run ALL FUTURE wiring pairs in the same loom (mesh) so I don't have to attempt to try this again (and take everything off again)? I'm assuming so, and if so, do people use different colored wires so they know which is which (aside from ohming it out)?

2. What is the preferred routing method when dealing with under the tank, etc? I'm concerned with heat issues and I'd hate to have the shielding melt off, etc.

2a. Do I go OVER the heat shield, beneath the heat shield? Do I need to remove the side plastic to run this?

I found this post through various searches this evening and it does show quite a bit of pictures, etc. but I'm really open to suggestions.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=121236&st=0&do=findComment&comment=632101

3. I plan on tapping into the rear taillight for my switchable power. Any issues or items to be concerned with here?

4. When tapping into the rear taillight for my switchable power, it's my understanding this is for powering my RELAY only on my fuzeblock, correct? This isn't actually the power source I'll be using for power grips, GPS, etc. (My concern is using the rear taillight power as a source for items it's not rated to handle). Those power sources will actually be run directly from the fuzeblock, correct? Forgive my ignorance, I'm not technologically 'slow', but electronics is not my strongest forte and I want to do it proper the first time through

Thanks!

 

[900gc]

<p>1.</p>

<p>You CAN run all wires through the same sleeve but, depending on where your switches/controls are located for what you intend on adding, you may end up with long runs of wires to make it TO the sleeve before they even start heading for the block. I went the short route so have wiring down both sides of the frame. White elec. tape makes nice labeling tabs if you need.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>2.</p>

<p>Unless you left enough slack in a harness that ran over the heat shield to move it aside, I would think that it would make removing the heat shield more difficult for maintenance. I ran under and attached the wires to either current wiring or to the inside of the frame rails. The point being is to not attach the wires in direct contact with the hot things under there. There are lots of wires already put there by Yamaha and they don't melt. (although the ground spider might give headaches if you haven't had it fixed yet) <img alt=":weirdsmiley:" class="bbc_emoticon" src="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/weirdsmiley.gif" title=":weirdsmiley:" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>3.</p>

<p>The tap wire draws about 5 watts to power the relay so that is no problem for the taillight wire at all. Yes, the power for your accessories comes from the Fuze Block through those nice heavy 10/12 gauge wires hooked to the battery. Depending if you want your accessories hot all the time or switched on with the bike, you would need to configure the block circuits accordingly.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I suppose one could wire everything with only propping up the tank, but it is SO much easier to remove some things to make room for working. I took off the A,B,C,and D fairing panels, the side panels and removed the tank completely when I wired mine up. Made it real easy to get at everything and got more familiar with whats under all that stuff to boot.<img alt="smile.png" src="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/smile.png" title="" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>ps: wanna' swap your black tank trim piece for a nice silver one?<img alt="rolleyes.gif" src="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif" title="" /></p>

 

[BLS]

Thanks 900gc.

What black tank trim piece are you referring to? Mine's silver too.

 

[RiderX]

I think you're on the right track. I originally had everything on top of the heat shield, thinking that was better and after last valve check, routed them all under. Less hassle for any maintenance. No issues with some serious heat.

Taillight is fine to trigger relay. I ended up running a wire to my factory heated grips as the signal came on with the headlights only after engine running. I did use several wire colors and various looms.

 

[BLS]

Thanks Mountain!

 

[900gc]

Thanks 900gc.
What black tank trim piece are you referring to? Mine's silver too.

Your's is an AE then. I assumed it was an A.

 

[LAF]

This is how I did mine. I did run under the engine blanket with enough slack to move it around.

 

[BLS]

This is how I did mine. I did run under the engine blanket with enough slack to move it around.

Do you have any photos of the routing around the engine area? I'm just looking for ideas that are proven to work.

BTW: that's a super clean installation. Looks very nice.