Need suggestions on wiring loom, wrap or tape material

[TheZsdad]

Ok last week I ripped out the pair stuff added Wynpros covers. Installed a FZ1 fuzesblock under the rear seat.

Installed a PCV. Ran a gps cable and battery tender cable to the FZ1. Ran power from the battery to the FZ1.

Sync'd the TB's while I was in there. I wrapped the pos and neg 12 awg wires from the battery with electrical tape.

I'm thinking there might be a better choice of material to wrap those wires. So what will work ? The wires are run

from the bat, high along the outside of the frame under the cowling. I did this in an attempt to avoid some heat

from the engine. I'm afraid the electrical tape is just going to turn into a sticky mess when the the engine gets to

operating temperature. Do I need to wrap the wires in some kind of insulated material?

I see tons of options from silicone tape to fire retardant split wire looms etc etc...

What do y'all use ? And where did you buy it please ? I see lots of places to buy this stuff

but what do I really need? Sometimes there is just to much stuff out there.

I've have searched this for hours and now I'm confused :read:

Thx in advance.

 

[johnny80s]

Heat shrink tubing. You can get it cheap at harbor freight.

 

[kawabeemer]

I have used both the split loom and spiral wrap on various bikes. I use these 'cause it's a lot easier than wrapping with electrical tape. My experience is that if these melt, your bike is probably on fire.......The electrical tape wrap will work just fine as long as you don't want to add another lead at a later date.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I use this NAPA product. It's extremely expensive and extremely durable. I only use it for wiring that runs directly through the engine compartment.

I also was given some of this Flexo stuff from JP Cycles. It shows promise and is much less expensive.

IMHO, if you are running wire through the engine compartment, it deserves more than tape.

As Johnny80s pointed out already, Harbor Freight has heat shrink tubing in long lengths, cheap! This is my favorite heat shrink tubing assortment from Harbor Freight.

 

[Patriot]

Heat shrink tubing. You can get it cheap at harbor freight.

any Harbor Freight store or only the one in San Diego...tell the cashier Hello for me...

 

[lnewlf]

Electrical tape covered with spiral wrap or split loom. Cheap place to buy is Home Depot.

 

[ki4bar]

I have 4 cable runs from the rear of the bike to the front in split loom. 2 power runs on the right side of the frame and 2 audio runs on the left. Both run through the engine "compartment". I taped the loom closed with a round or two of electrical tape every 4-6 inches and have had no issues with melting since I did the initial install about 8k ago. I agree with the tape being a sticky mess, not so much being a problem for operation but if you ever want to change something like adding another audio cable or power lead (something I seem to do regularly). That's also the benefit of the split loom instead of heat shrink plus it offers more protection against abrasion from vibrations then heat shrink will. The split loom I got was at O'Reilly but Autozone and Advance should have comparable packs. It was a reasonable price for packs with like 5 foot sections and they had multiple sizes to choose from.

 

[TheZsdad]

Great feed back folks. The calm has been restored.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[johnny80s]

Heat shrink tubing. You can get it cheap at harbor freight.

any Harbor Freight store or only the one in San Diego...tell the cashier Hello for me...

I have talked with Harbor Freight and they have graciously allowed people outside of San Diego to buy the shrink wrap now. It is on the website and can be purchased anytime 24 hours a day.

 

[ian]

TheZsdad:

I used the split vinyl/plastic tubing for power to and from my Centech fuse block under the passenger seat. I routed two sets of wires this way just under the edge of the gas tank on each side- no indication of melting.

I ran some other wires to the Audiovox cc and a few other devices that crossed over the top of the engine. I bought a roll of heat resistant 1/2" braided tubing this from ?? on the Internet. Can't remember what it's made of but if you PM me with your address, I'll send you 5' or so of it. Ian, Iowa

 

[Peter Murray]

Generic electric tape is inadequit, electric leak's can occur ... LINE tape from home depot will fully insulate the wires without leakage. Due to the line tape elastic nature I use it in place of Heat shrink tubing.

The Bomb..

Split loom in the engine compartment is a must.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Split or braided beat shrink wrap, and all of them beat tape. There are actually a couple of forces you're fighting, the heat can soften the plastic insulation, and the road dust/grit can accelerate chafing. Split or braided help with both and have less heat retention than shrink wrap.

Watch your insulation type, too. Tefzel aerospace remnants aren't too expensive, is really tough and good for the heat we're exposed to.

 

[TheZsdad]

TheZsdad:I used the split vinyl/plastic tubing for power to and from my Centech fuse block under the passenger seat. I routed two sets of wires this way just under the edge of the gas tank on each side- no indication of melting.

I ran some other wires to the Audiovox cc and a few other devices that crossed over the top of the engine. I bought a roll of heat resistant 1/2" braided tubing this from ?? on the Internet. Can't remember what it's made of but if you PM me with your address, I'll send you 5' or so of it. Ian, Iowa

PM Sent

 

[TheZsdad]

Some very good information here guys. Thanks for the help, Dave

 

[FB1]

I used to do engineering for automotive, principally fuel systems and some underhood applications. As such, I'm not a big fan of electrical tape or split polyethylene wire loom for underhood, engine compartment applications. When I did a Fuzeblock installation on my FJR, I used this nylon braided loom below. The 1/2" size loom easily fit (1) pair of 10 gage wire, (4) pairs of 14 gage plus (2) pairs of 18 gage wire. The cost is a reasonable 67 cents/foot.

https://cableorganizer.com/nylon/

part number BSNY050



Nylon Expandable Braided Sleeving
 
Terminates well with Heat Shrink
* Lightweight and flexible for ultimate protection
* GSA approvedSold by the foot to save money, or receive discounts when bought by the spool
* Sleeving expands up to 150% to fit over most connectors
* Operates in temperatures from -45° to 302° F
* Resists automotive fluids to keep engines safe
* Cut & abrasion resistant to protect hoses from excessive wear
I installed all of the wires inside the braided loom before routing the looming from the battery to the rider seat storage area. The wires make it stiffer and easier to route through the engine compartment and frame.

Large diameter heat shrink tubing was used over each end of the braid, to keep it from fraying where the wires exit as well as to provide a more finished look. Nylon zip ties were used to secure the loom to the existing main wire harness running through the engine compartment.

 

[TheZsdad]

Thanks for the info and the link FB1. Being available by the foot is a real plus. Good tip on using the heat shrink

to keep the ends from fraying.

 

[Good2Go]

I like the flexible vinyl loom that Yamaha uses on the factory wiring. Works great:

Vintage Connections.

 

[Bounce]

my preferences:

heat shrink at the connectors (after a crimp, solder, or both YMWV)

asphalt loom over the wire of going near a high-heat area like the motor

split of spiral loom if going through a non-high-heat area (for abrasion resistance)

 

[Hudson]

The best stuff I found was at Home Depot in the plumbing section. It was Silicon tape, just like electric tape but super stretchy and sticky, and heat resistant to 500 degrees. Plus it was watertight since it sticks to itself and seals. I've used this stuff everywhere to wrap cable (such as starcom or electric cable) or insulate from heat and water. $6 a roll.