HyperPete
Opinionated curmudgeon
Please read the following;
Yamaha does not sell Service Manuals via Acrobat .PDF on eBay. Those are pirated copies and although they may include what you're looking for don't be trading, encouraging, linking, or sharing them on this forum. Your kharma may be solid enough to risk stealing copyrighted material, but this board will not take the risk.
If you want a completely legal Service Manual visit Yamaha and order one here.
There are a few places you can get a legal Service Manual. Look around.
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FJRForum Technical Service Bulletins Note - These are not Yamaha Bulletins.
These are inherent problems realized by FJRForum Members.
These are not gripes either, these are actual mechanical/electrical problems.
FJRF001 - Valve Ticking / Premature Exhaust Valve Guide Seal Issue (Gen I Bikes) (Fixed since 2006) Ticking Archives Part 1 Part 2
Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
Sound File Thread
Sound File Thread 2
FJRF002 - Throttle Abruptness Issue (Gen II Bikes) Bulletin - standby for link This has some info
FJRF003 - Ignition Failure (Gen I and II Bikes) (Unsure about 2008) Click for Bulletin
FJRF004 - Altitude Sickness (2006/2007 Bikes) (Fixed for 2008) Click for Bulletin
FJRF005 - Ignition Switch Issue (2006-early 2009 Bikes) Click for Bulletin
FJRF006 & FJRF006.1 - Throttle Position Sensor (2005 Bikes) Here for initial recall and here for supplement of 180 bikes in 2009.
Starting October 2006 a Recall was made by Yamaha for the Throttle Position Sensor.
The improperly designed TPS for 2003-2005 models could cause an intermittently unstable idle when the engine is at idling speed, when the motorcycle is stopped, or during low-speed operation. It can also cause surging.
For North America, the original TPS must be replaced in all 2003 FJR13R, all 2004 FJR13S, FJR13AS, and certain 2005 FJR13T, FJR13AT. This new TPS should already be in the 2006 models and beyond.
For Europe, Asia, and Australia the TPS may have to be replaced for as early as 2001 models. You may have to call Yamaha in your nation to determine if your specific VIN requires a new TPS.
FJRF007 - Touring Trunk Stress (2003-2007 models)
Starting June 2007 a Recall was made by Yamaha for the Touring Trunk.The Yamaha touring trunk for 2003-2007 models requires a reinforcement kit. Excess vibration and concentration of stress to the trunk base due to lack of damping between top case and attachment plate. Contact your dealer to order and install additional components (Reinforcement Plate Kit) that reinforce as well as provide more damping. Ensure you get the right kit for your year model.
2003-2005 FJR1300 Reinforcement Plate Kit Part # 5JW-PLATE-KT-00
2006-2007 FJR1300 Reinforcement Plate Kit Part # 5VS-PLATE-KT-00
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The following mainly applies to the 2003-2005 FJR. (Some info does apply to the 06-current. More 06-08 info below)
(Read the whole post, there is info throughout for all years)
1. Under the pillion seat are two rubber bands. They are to secure a "U" lock. (All known years)
2. The idle screw is on the right side below the tank. It is a gold/brass colored wheel. Clicky
Your idle should be set to 1000 ~ 1100 RPM when up to warm operating temperature.
3. There are four hoses running out the bottom (3 on left, 1 on right), they are;
the fuel tank breather, fuel tank overflow, air filter case breather hose,
and coolant reservoir breather hose (1 on right).
4. Your pumpkin needs paste. Pull the drive shaft and lube your splines. (check sites below)
Many owners have found these insufficiently lubed from the factory.
5. The radiator filler cap is on the left side of your bike under the black panel aft of your glove box.
The fuses are under this panel as well (03-05 only).
(The panel the 4-way flasher is on) (Panel A)
*Don't forget the screw under the glovebox lid when taking these panels off*
6. The battery is under the forward black panel on the right side.
(Opposite and fwd of the radiator filler cap) (Panel C)
6a. What's that blue/gray/black connector under my fairing on a Gen 2? Aka where do I find power for my Gen 2? Clicky here.
7. The air filter is on the left side below the seat. Clicky
8. The auto retract on the windscreen can be disabled. Clicky
9. The side stand does not come down (extend) as much as some think it should.
Some have had the bike fall over because of inattention. Be cautious when using it and dismounting. Ensure it is fully extended.
Many have filed down the side stand stop so it will extend more.
The bike will not start with the side stand down if the bike is in gear. (works in neutral).
Park it in gear when on the sidestand so the bike will not roll off the stand. Bike rule #1
10. The throttle bodies are under the tank. Synchronize them every 5000 miles (give or take). (check sites below)
11. Spark plugs are under the tank. OEM plugs are NGK CR8E. Gap is 0.7 ~ 0.8 mm (0.028 ~ 0.031 in).
Many use the iridium plugs for longer life (NGK CR8EIX). Do not touch the iridium stock gap. It is set within spec (0.028 in) out of the box.
Don't regap iridium plugs, you will damage them. They are very fragile.
12. Check your headlights. They may be set too high from the factory. Some have had to lower them.
13. The key must be "On", and the bike must be in neutral for the glove box to open, but not to close.
Some can open the glove box regardless. Not totally secure.
14. The mirrors fold. Many replace the OEMs with FZ-1 mirrors to get a better view behind. They fold also. Clicky
The mirrors you want are the older generation FZ-1 mirrors.
5LV-26280-00-00 REAR VIEW MIRROR ASSY (LEFT)
5LV-26290-00-00 REAR VIEW MIRROR ASSY (RIGHT)
They fit on Gen II bikes as well.
15. The so-called "heat" coming off the engine does not bother everybody.
P.S. You are sitting on top of on I-4 engine. There is warmth.
16. In the US when bags are delivered (they have been included as part of the bike in all years since 2003..don't let the dealer try and convince you otherwise), the cloth bags will be inside them along with bottom mounting brackets and installation manual. If dealer installs bags, check to see that; 1. Cloth bags are inside 2. Bottom brackets were installed on bike (some were delivered without these brackets being installed)
On all bags in every country; 1. Lock screws should be installed with blue threadlocker on the threads. 2. Bag mounting hole covers (4) should be inside bag(s).
If you mount your own, borrow or buy a set of torx security drivers to mount the locks and use blue threadlocker.
There are also four pieces of clear tape that are either installed around the saddle bag mounts to reduce the chances of scratching the paint or if not installed properly--are probably in the bag of goodies and you should install.
17. Check under the seat for the three (3) supplied locks for the bags & trunk. Some FJRs have been delivered with these locks removed.
18. The rear wheel will spin when on the center stand and in neutral (constant mesh tranny and wet clutch).
19. Suspension Set-up:
Front
Spring Preload (5 levels total)
Rebound Dampening (17 clicks total) (Black Wheel on Preload)
Compression Dampening (21 clicks total) (Straight slot screw on lower section of fork)
Rear
Spring Preload (Hard or Soft) - Hard for 2 up, heavy loads, or heavy riders.
Rebound Dampening (min 3 clicks - 20 clicks total) (Wheel under shock absorber)
*Note - # of clicks is based on the 04. Different years are different. It is your bike, get your specific info.
Do not set them at min
Turn them all "in" (clockwise) to harden, then turn them "out" (counterclockwise) to soften.
To set them - turn them clockwise all the way for max hard and then turn counterclockwise to a desired setting.
Click Here for an informative thread about suspension set-up with an actual setting for the 03-05 setting and then later in the thread and actual for the 06-08. Your suspension set-up straight from the factory is probably at a terrible setting. Dealers do not set-up suspension either..unless you talk to them about it maybe. They may not know a good setting for the FJR anyway. Your suspension set-up is very important and you must check it and/or adjust it. The Rear Rebound should be not set at 3 or less and they should all not be set to the minimum or maximum.
20. The "Low Oil Light" is not a low oil pressure light, it is a low oil level light. When the key is turned on the lamp lights for a second or so, to check that the lamp works. To check the complete system, when it's empty after draining oil, turn key on (don't start it) & while adding 3rd quart of oil, the lamp should go out. At times when running w/minimum oil level, light will blink on in curves.
After changing oil/filter as per the manual, running it and letting it cool off,
the oil should be up to the middle of the sight glass when cold and on the center stand.
The manual calls for oil drain plug torque @ 43 Nm or 31 ft/lbs. Many have found problems with this.
You need oil changes and this high torque over and over can and has stripped the threads in the oil pan.
Some use 18-22 ft/lbs and some just snug it up properly, both with no leakage. This is just a warning.
This warning also applies to the oil filter. It is only required to snug up the filter.
Items like this don't need torque (they don't hold the engine together), they only need to be tight.
21. When the FJR fuel tank goes on reserve it counts the distance ridden on reserve.
Your odometer will change and count up in increments of 1/10th as soon as the fuel gets that low.
When it registers more fuel it cancels itself and goes back to your regular odometer readout.
The regular odometer did not stop during this, and get to a gas station.
22. To change the clock on your bike hold down the Select and Reset buttons for a few seconds.
Some bikes can change back and forth from Miles to Kilometers (Gen 1 North American for sure...Gen2 bikes cannot ). Hold down the Select button to do this.
23. ABS will do a burnout and Shafties will do wheelies.
24. Use whatever psi, oil, fuel, tire, etc, which makes you happy. Nobody cares. It doesn't matter.
By the way, only 87 octane fuel is required. The FJR compression ratio does not warrant premium.
There are many other factors to consider with octane but in general, if the engine does not "knock", 87 is fine.
Using premium will cost you more money, but it will not increase performance. It won't hurt your bike if you do use it though.
25. Get a Manual, and Read your Manual.
26. WARRANTY - A one year warranty is supplied on new FJRs valid at all Yamaha dealers.
In the USA, the Y.E.S. contract is available and must be bought before your factory warranty (12 months) expires and should be something you seriously consider when you first purchase your FJR.
A YES contract is a 4 year Yamaha product. All dealers pay Yamaha the same price for that product. The difference in pricing to customers is all "markup". The Y.E.S. product is recognized by Yamaha dealerships nationally no matter where it was originally purchased (except Florida and Washington)
You can get a 48 month YES for around $390 at D&H Cycles. D&H Cycle, 18115 US Hwy 31, Cullman, AL 35058, 256-739-1840, 888-553-3311
In Canada, an extended warranty is available. It is quite pricey.
It is called The Yamaha Protection Plan (YPP) and can be for up to 4 year after the factory warranty (12 months) expires.
Canadians FJR owners cannot use the YES plan in Canada or buy a YES plan and get service in the US.
27. Whoever torques the oil plug at the factory seems to have huge muscles and occasionally strip the first time it's serviced or you loosen the bolt. Having it strip on a dealer for that first service may be more easily covered under warranty than if you do it yourself as was this food for thought.
28. The OEM windshield fasteners are plastic and snap off if overtorqued. They'd designed this way in the event of an accident...so you don't cut yourself on a jagged windshield.
29. If you consider changing the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) READ THIS LINK FIRST!
30. The number of bars displayed on the temperature gauge is an indicator of the temperature of the coolant, but isn't calibrated so that over half is too hot. Unless your cap is boiling over or your 230 degrees all the time...it's working just fine. See the Bin-O-Facts for your generation to translate.
31. Those spiffy highway pegs I hear people talking about. Where do I get them? Answer: Wild Bill makes some great pegs...even if he seems to switch e-mail addresses as often as socks. Latest known e-mail is [email protected].
32. It's "RPM"....NOT "RPMs". RPM stands for Revolutions Per Minute. Putting an extra s on the end of the abbreviation tries to pluralize it twice.
33. Some think the keys are soft. Some don't. If you want a harder key, try Ace Hardware and the Ilco brnad YM63 blank.
34. The stock cigarette fuse power source is 2 amp and the typical inflator is likely over 5 amps. Don't try your inflator on this circuit or you'll pop your fuse for sure and don't think putting a 3 amp fuse will fix things. Many people install dedicated 10 or 15 amp circuits or a battery pigtail for this purpose.
35. My low beam headlights are not working. Surely they both can't be blown out at the same time? A: Yes, they can. When one fails the other either fails at the same time via surge or often in a very short time. You can see the filaments burned out if you look at the bulb through your headlights.
36. Why are the windshield screws made out of plastic? A: Because Yamaha engineers designed them to break free in the case you go over your handlebars. There are many stories of get-offs where the windshield snapped off instead of breaking into sharp pieces and even still able to reused after the event. At the same time, nobody has ever had a windshield break off (even those that have replaced with barn doors) even at the highest FJR speeds. Just don't over-torque them when you screw them down--they do break off if over-twisted. There are some that still replace with metal screws, but the should realize they are likely defeating an intended design feature.
37. Q: What's the empty bolt hole on the left side near the shift linkage? A: It's a boss for parts used by the AE...not non-AE bikes.
Also check out... Ignacio's Bin-O-Facts on 03-05s (Gen 1)
Link to Rickster's Bin-O-Facts on 06-08s (Gen2) is below.
Go here for Tips and Maintenance...FJR Tech.com...FJR1300.info...FJR-tips.org
Go here to look for Parts and/or Part Numbers...Yamaha Part
or here...Sunnyside Yamaha Parts On-Line
Go here to learn more about Suspension set up...GoStar Racing
Go here to learn about Tire Wear...Rattlebars.com.....and with that, Click Here to read about Tire Plugs.
Go here to read all about Oil...Motorcycle Info
There are many never-ending type threads in the forum about oil. Search for them here and read away.
Look for posts by Jestal (forum member), to find very in-depth oil information.
To sum up oil, here is part of a post by Warchild (one of the forum admins);
QUOTE The topic of engine oils has some similarities to the topic of religion: just use what works for you, and please don't push it on others who may have a different "religious" perspective.
IMO, six words can pretty much sum up the only meaningful result of the endless oil debate:
"Dirty oil = bad. Clean oil = good".
As long as the oil in your engine is reasonably clean, it's hard to go wrong with most of today's modern oils. Select the proper viscosity and just use whatever gives you a woody.
As far as the Tick goes. It happens to around 10% (give or take) of 03-05 FJRs.
The problem is loose valves. Oil will pass by and exit through the exhaust and it sounds like someone is playing drums with silverware, loudly. Links to sound files at the top of this post under "FJRF001".
Also be aware that these engines do make noise and you can hear the inner workings.
Search this site for many threads on how to carry out the fix (replacement of valves and guides is the fix).
Yamaha rectified it in 2006 (Yes a little late, but no problems at all with the 2006 and later models).
Look below for the problem and why (Comes from overseas).
The "New" valves mentioned below did not work. Your bike needs to be fixed with 2006 (or later) parts.
After being fixed properly with the 2006+ parts, the tick is cured.
The following is a chart of the Gen I FJRs (2003-2005).
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The following changes apply to the 2006-2008 FJR. The big difference is color and the specific differences to 2008 are listed further below.
(There is info above in the 03-05 section that still applies as well)
1. All new unified braking system with computer controlled ABS. When the front brake is applied, all 4 front LHS caliper pistons are activated, and only the "upper" two pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated. When applying the rear brake, the rear caliper piston is activated plus the two lower pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated.
In short, the front brake will not activate the rear, but the rear will give you partial braking on the front
2. Electrically adjustable windscreen was totally revised for 2006. The windshield features a fresh air duct at the bottom to reduce the vacuum tendency (negative pressure) in the cockpit area.
3. Adjustable two-piece seat features an adjustment range of 20mm (0.8") for the rider portion of the seat. There are two steps of adjustment via specially designed eccentric rubbers. Different foam densities for the front and rear sections.
4. All new adjustable handlebars offers three positions of adjustability. From the centre position, the bars can be adjusted 5.5 mm forward or 5.5mm back towards the rider. Total adjustment range is 11mm.
5. Revised storage compartment. Inside the compartment is a 12 volt 30 watt DC power outlet.
6. Middle cowl features a 2 - position adjustable visor / vent. The adjustment range is 30mm via quick turn fasteners.
The intended purpose is;
When the vents are open, cool air is deflected away from the rider thus allowing more of the warm air to be felt.
When the vents are closed, more cool air is allowed to neutralize the warm air that reaches the rider.
7. Air flow management has been optimized to reduce the amount of heat that flows to the rider. There are vents on the outside of each headlight to allow cool air into the cockpit and fuel tank areas. There is also a fresh air vent below the instrument assembly.
8. The fuses are on the right side behind the battery.
9. The radiator is "curved" and has a rad guard. It is completely new and different from previous models.
10. Many FJR specific farkles (add-ons) that owners put on the 03-05s will not work on the later models. (i.e. Bar Risers, Sliders, Fenda Extenda, Rad Guard etc).
You need specific farkles for your bike year.
The older FZ1 mirrors I mentioned above do fit on Gen II bikes.
11. What's the loose wire under the dash area of my bike? It's a "thermistor" for the temperature sensor. Talked about here and many other places.
Don't forget... Rickster's Bin-O-Facts on 06-08s
The following is a chart of the 2006-2008 FJRs.
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The following changes apply to the 2008 FJR from 2006/2007. The 2008 is still a Gen II, it just has a few changes from previous.
1. Revised throttle pulley shape for improved drivability, smoother throttle action and improved throttle feeling.
2. Middle gear damper spring load is increased for improved feeling at clutch engagement & better overall shifting feel.
3. Revised 3 & 4 pinion gears feature and additional dog for improved shifting feel.
4. Revised engine ECU settings for improved drivability.
5. All new ABS system. The ABS or Anti Lock Braking System now features a linear controlled 3 position system (Vs 2 position in the past), an ECU integrated compact hydraulic unit and a new active type wheel sensor with a new magnetic rotor. The benefit is a reduced weight and better lever feedback feeling when the system is operating.
6. Revised front and rear rims to accommodate the new ABS sensors.
7. The windshield has been revised. A new hard coating on the windshield surface helps to prevent scratching. The internal screen holder or base has been revised from a 2 piece to a 1 piece design to reduce weight. The external cover for the activation arms is changed to rubber to reduce noise. And finally, the internal mounting system for the windshield has been revised to reduce the vibration of the windshield at speed.
8. The instrumentation meter cover has been revised from silver finish to a black metallic finish to reduce glare on the windscreen.
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FJR Break-in (any year) is a much debated topic. The answer is, just ride it. There are a few methods described on the internet but they all have some holes in them.
You can change your oil as soon as you want and you can change it to synthetic (if you desire) as soon as you want, period.
The technology of the 21st century is much different than previous. Simply put, engines are much better.
You don't have to "scrub" in an engine and engines don't come with break-in oil anymore. You don't have to granny an engine for the first however many miles either.
The best thing to do to your engine and all the bike's components is to ride it, go through all the gears, and keep it maintained (fluids, filters etc). Use you RPM range in all gears (staying out of redline) and vary your speed/RPM.
The only thing you don't want to do is run constant/sustained RPM for a long time (It is mentioned in you owner's manual) during the first 500-600 miles or so. Ride the damn thing!
And lastly, what does FJR stand for.....It does not stand for anything.
There are no "words" associated with the acronym. Wikipedia - FJR1300
It is a bike that evolved from the earlier Yamaha FJ1100 and FJ1200
***ADMIN NOTE: This posting has been edited by the author (initially FJRottie and then Kevin Daly) to incorporate contributions by other members. The administrator (Ignacio) then deleted those posts to keep the thread orderly. Feel free to add replies. The author will continue to incorporate contributory information. ***
Yamaha does not sell Service Manuals via Acrobat .PDF on eBay. Those are pirated copies and although they may include what you're looking for don't be trading, encouraging, linking, or sharing them on this forum. Your kharma may be solid enough to risk stealing copyrighted material, but this board will not take the risk.
If you want a completely legal Service Manual visit Yamaha and order one here.
There are a few places you can get a legal Service Manual. Look around.
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FJRForum Technical Service Bulletins Note - These are not Yamaha Bulletins.
These are inherent problems realized by FJRForum Members.
These are not gripes either, these are actual mechanical/electrical problems.
FJRF001 - Valve Ticking / Premature Exhaust Valve Guide Seal Issue (Gen I Bikes) (Fixed since 2006) Ticking Archives Part 1 Part 2
Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
Sound File Thread
Sound File Thread 2
FJRF002 - Throttle Abruptness Issue (Gen II Bikes) Bulletin - standby for link This has some info
FJRF003 - Ignition Failure (Gen I and II Bikes) (Unsure about 2008) Click for Bulletin
FJRF004 - Altitude Sickness (2006/2007 Bikes) (Fixed for 2008) Click for Bulletin
FJRF005 - Ignition Switch Issue (2006-early 2009 Bikes) Click for Bulletin
FJRF006 & FJRF006.1 - Throttle Position Sensor (2005 Bikes) Here for initial recall and here for supplement of 180 bikes in 2009.
Starting October 2006 a Recall was made by Yamaha for the Throttle Position Sensor.
The improperly designed TPS for 2003-2005 models could cause an intermittently unstable idle when the engine is at idling speed, when the motorcycle is stopped, or during low-speed operation. It can also cause surging.
For North America, the original TPS must be replaced in all 2003 FJR13R, all 2004 FJR13S, FJR13AS, and certain 2005 FJR13T, FJR13AT. This new TPS should already be in the 2006 models and beyond.
For Europe, Asia, and Australia the TPS may have to be replaced for as early as 2001 models. You may have to call Yamaha in your nation to determine if your specific VIN requires a new TPS.
FJRF007 - Touring Trunk Stress (2003-2007 models)
Starting June 2007 a Recall was made by Yamaha for the Touring Trunk.The Yamaha touring trunk for 2003-2007 models requires a reinforcement kit. Excess vibration and concentration of stress to the trunk base due to lack of damping between top case and attachment plate. Contact your dealer to order and install additional components (Reinforcement Plate Kit) that reinforce as well as provide more damping. Ensure you get the right kit for your year model.
2003-2005 FJR1300 Reinforcement Plate Kit Part # 5JW-PLATE-KT-00
2006-2007 FJR1300 Reinforcement Plate Kit Part # 5VS-PLATE-KT-00
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The following mainly applies to the 2003-2005 FJR. (Some info does apply to the 06-current. More 06-08 info below)
(Read the whole post, there is info throughout for all years)
1. Under the pillion seat are two rubber bands. They are to secure a "U" lock. (All known years)
2. The idle screw is on the right side below the tank. It is a gold/brass colored wheel. Clicky
Your idle should be set to 1000 ~ 1100 RPM when up to warm operating temperature.
3. There are four hoses running out the bottom (3 on left, 1 on right), they are;
the fuel tank breather, fuel tank overflow, air filter case breather hose,
and coolant reservoir breather hose (1 on right).
4. Your pumpkin needs paste. Pull the drive shaft and lube your splines. (check sites below)
Many owners have found these insufficiently lubed from the factory.
5. The radiator filler cap is on the left side of your bike under the black panel aft of your glove box.
The fuses are under this panel as well (03-05 only).
(The panel the 4-way flasher is on) (Panel A)
*Don't forget the screw under the glovebox lid when taking these panels off*
6. The battery is under the forward black panel on the right side.
(Opposite and fwd of the radiator filler cap) (Panel C)
6a. What's that blue/gray/black connector under my fairing on a Gen 2? Aka where do I find power for my Gen 2? Clicky here.
7. The air filter is on the left side below the seat. Clicky
8. The auto retract on the windscreen can be disabled. Clicky
9. The side stand does not come down (extend) as much as some think it should.
Some have had the bike fall over because of inattention. Be cautious when using it and dismounting. Ensure it is fully extended.
Many have filed down the side stand stop so it will extend more.
The bike will not start with the side stand down if the bike is in gear. (works in neutral).
Park it in gear when on the sidestand so the bike will not roll off the stand. Bike rule #1
10. The throttle bodies are under the tank. Synchronize them every 5000 miles (give or take). (check sites below)
11. Spark plugs are under the tank. OEM plugs are NGK CR8E. Gap is 0.7 ~ 0.8 mm (0.028 ~ 0.031 in).
Many use the iridium plugs for longer life (NGK CR8EIX). Do not touch the iridium stock gap. It is set within spec (0.028 in) out of the box.
Don't regap iridium plugs, you will damage them. They are very fragile.
12. Check your headlights. They may be set too high from the factory. Some have had to lower them.
13. The key must be "On", and the bike must be in neutral for the glove box to open, but not to close.
Some can open the glove box regardless. Not totally secure.
14. The mirrors fold. Many replace the OEMs with FZ-1 mirrors to get a better view behind. They fold also. Clicky
The mirrors you want are the older generation FZ-1 mirrors.
5LV-26280-00-00 REAR VIEW MIRROR ASSY (LEFT)
5LV-26290-00-00 REAR VIEW MIRROR ASSY (RIGHT)
They fit on Gen II bikes as well.
15. The so-called "heat" coming off the engine does not bother everybody.
P.S. You are sitting on top of on I-4 engine. There is warmth.
16. In the US when bags are delivered (they have been included as part of the bike in all years since 2003..don't let the dealer try and convince you otherwise), the cloth bags will be inside them along with bottom mounting brackets and installation manual. If dealer installs bags, check to see that; 1. Cloth bags are inside 2. Bottom brackets were installed on bike (some were delivered without these brackets being installed)
On all bags in every country; 1. Lock screws should be installed with blue threadlocker on the threads. 2. Bag mounting hole covers (4) should be inside bag(s).
If you mount your own, borrow or buy a set of torx security drivers to mount the locks and use blue threadlocker.
There are also four pieces of clear tape that are either installed around the saddle bag mounts to reduce the chances of scratching the paint or if not installed properly--are probably in the bag of goodies and you should install.
17. Check under the seat for the three (3) supplied locks for the bags & trunk. Some FJRs have been delivered with these locks removed.
18. The rear wheel will spin when on the center stand and in neutral (constant mesh tranny and wet clutch).
19. Suspension Set-up:
Front
Spring Preload (5 levels total)
Rebound Dampening (17 clicks total) (Black Wheel on Preload)
Compression Dampening (21 clicks total) (Straight slot screw on lower section of fork)
Rear
Spring Preload (Hard or Soft) - Hard for 2 up, heavy loads, or heavy riders.
Rebound Dampening (min 3 clicks - 20 clicks total) (Wheel under shock absorber)
*Note - # of clicks is based on the 04. Different years are different. It is your bike, get your specific info.
Do not set them at min
Turn them all "in" (clockwise) to harden, then turn them "out" (counterclockwise) to soften.
To set them - turn them clockwise all the way for max hard and then turn counterclockwise to a desired setting.
Click Here for an informative thread about suspension set-up with an actual setting for the 03-05 setting and then later in the thread and actual for the 06-08. Your suspension set-up straight from the factory is probably at a terrible setting. Dealers do not set-up suspension either..unless you talk to them about it maybe. They may not know a good setting for the FJR anyway. Your suspension set-up is very important and you must check it and/or adjust it. The Rear Rebound should be not set at 3 or less and they should all not be set to the minimum or maximum.
20. The "Low Oil Light" is not a low oil pressure light, it is a low oil level light. When the key is turned on the lamp lights for a second or so, to check that the lamp works. To check the complete system, when it's empty after draining oil, turn key on (don't start it) & while adding 3rd quart of oil, the lamp should go out. At times when running w/minimum oil level, light will blink on in curves.
After changing oil/filter as per the manual, running it and letting it cool off,
the oil should be up to the middle of the sight glass when cold and on the center stand.
The manual calls for oil drain plug torque @ 43 Nm or 31 ft/lbs. Many have found problems with this.
You need oil changes and this high torque over and over can and has stripped the threads in the oil pan.
Some use 18-22 ft/lbs and some just snug it up properly, both with no leakage. This is just a warning.
This warning also applies to the oil filter. It is only required to snug up the filter.
Items like this don't need torque (they don't hold the engine together), they only need to be tight.
21. When the FJR fuel tank goes on reserve it counts the distance ridden on reserve.
Your odometer will change and count up in increments of 1/10th as soon as the fuel gets that low.
When it registers more fuel it cancels itself and goes back to your regular odometer readout.
The regular odometer did not stop during this, and get to a gas station.
22. To change the clock on your bike hold down the Select and Reset buttons for a few seconds.
Some bikes can change back and forth from Miles to Kilometers (Gen 1 North American for sure...Gen2 bikes cannot ). Hold down the Select button to do this.
23. ABS will do a burnout and Shafties will do wheelies.
24. Use whatever psi, oil, fuel, tire, etc, which makes you happy. Nobody cares. It doesn't matter.
By the way, only 87 octane fuel is required. The FJR compression ratio does not warrant premium.
There are many other factors to consider with octane but in general, if the engine does not "knock", 87 is fine.
Using premium will cost you more money, but it will not increase performance. It won't hurt your bike if you do use it though.
25. Get a Manual, and Read your Manual.
26. WARRANTY - A one year warranty is supplied on new FJRs valid at all Yamaha dealers.
In the USA, the Y.E.S. contract is available and must be bought before your factory warranty (12 months) expires and should be something you seriously consider when you first purchase your FJR.
A YES contract is a 4 year Yamaha product. All dealers pay Yamaha the same price for that product. The difference in pricing to customers is all "markup". The Y.E.S. product is recognized by Yamaha dealerships nationally no matter where it was originally purchased (except Florida and Washington)
You can get a 48 month YES for around $390 at D&H Cycles. D&H Cycle, 18115 US Hwy 31, Cullman, AL 35058, 256-739-1840, 888-553-3311
In Canada, an extended warranty is available. It is quite pricey.
It is called The Yamaha Protection Plan (YPP) and can be for up to 4 year after the factory warranty (12 months) expires.
Canadians FJR owners cannot use the YES plan in Canada or buy a YES plan and get service in the US.
27. Whoever torques the oil plug at the factory seems to have huge muscles and occasionally strip the first time it's serviced or you loosen the bolt. Having it strip on a dealer for that first service may be more easily covered under warranty than if you do it yourself as was this food for thought.
28. The OEM windshield fasteners are plastic and snap off if overtorqued. They'd designed this way in the event of an accident...so you don't cut yourself on a jagged windshield.
29. If you consider changing the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) READ THIS LINK FIRST!
30. The number of bars displayed on the temperature gauge is an indicator of the temperature of the coolant, but isn't calibrated so that over half is too hot. Unless your cap is boiling over or your 230 degrees all the time...it's working just fine. See the Bin-O-Facts for your generation to translate.
31. Those spiffy highway pegs I hear people talking about. Where do I get them? Answer: Wild Bill makes some great pegs...even if he seems to switch e-mail addresses as often as socks. Latest known e-mail is [email protected].
32. It's "RPM"....NOT "RPMs". RPM stands for Revolutions Per Minute. Putting an extra s on the end of the abbreviation tries to pluralize it twice.
33. Some think the keys are soft. Some don't. If you want a harder key, try Ace Hardware and the Ilco brnad YM63 blank.
34. The stock cigarette fuse power source is 2 amp and the typical inflator is likely over 5 amps. Don't try your inflator on this circuit or you'll pop your fuse for sure and don't think putting a 3 amp fuse will fix things. Many people install dedicated 10 or 15 amp circuits or a battery pigtail for this purpose.
35. My low beam headlights are not working. Surely they both can't be blown out at the same time? A: Yes, they can. When one fails the other either fails at the same time via surge or often in a very short time. You can see the filaments burned out if you look at the bulb through your headlights.
36. Why are the windshield screws made out of plastic? A: Because Yamaha engineers designed them to break free in the case you go over your handlebars. There are many stories of get-offs where the windshield snapped off instead of breaking into sharp pieces and even still able to reused after the event. At the same time, nobody has ever had a windshield break off (even those that have replaced with barn doors) even at the highest FJR speeds. Just don't over-torque them when you screw them down--they do break off if over-twisted. There are some that still replace with metal screws, but the should realize they are likely defeating an intended design feature.
37. Q: What's the empty bolt hole on the left side near the shift linkage? A: It's a boss for parts used by the AE...not non-AE bikes.
Also check out... Ignacio's Bin-O-Facts on 03-05s (Gen 1)
Link to Rickster's Bin-O-Facts on 06-08s (Gen2) is below.
Go here for Tips and Maintenance...FJR Tech.com...FJR1300.info...FJR-tips.org
Go here to look for Parts and/or Part Numbers...Yamaha Part
or here...Sunnyside Yamaha Parts On-Line
Go here to learn more about Suspension set up...GoStar Racing
Go here to learn about Tire Wear...Rattlebars.com.....and with that, Click Here to read about Tire Plugs.
Go here to read all about Oil...Motorcycle Info
There are many never-ending type threads in the forum about oil. Search for them here and read away.
Look for posts by Jestal (forum member), to find very in-depth oil information.
To sum up oil, here is part of a post by Warchild (one of the forum admins);
QUOTE The topic of engine oils has some similarities to the topic of religion: just use what works for you, and please don't push it on others who may have a different "religious" perspective.
IMO, six words can pretty much sum up the only meaningful result of the endless oil debate:
"Dirty oil = bad. Clean oil = good".
As long as the oil in your engine is reasonably clean, it's hard to go wrong with most of today's modern oils. Select the proper viscosity and just use whatever gives you a woody.
As far as the Tick goes. It happens to around 10% (give or take) of 03-05 FJRs.
The problem is loose valves. Oil will pass by and exit through the exhaust and it sounds like someone is playing drums with silverware, loudly. Links to sound files at the top of this post under "FJRF001".
Also be aware that these engines do make noise and you can hear the inner workings.
Search this site for many threads on how to carry out the fix (replacement of valves and guides is the fix).
Yamaha rectified it in 2006 (Yes a little late, but no problems at all with the 2006 and later models).
Look below for the problem and why (Comes from overseas).
The "New" valves mentioned below did not work. Your bike needs to be fixed with 2006 (or later) parts.
After being fixed properly with the 2006+ parts, the tick is cured.
The following is a chart of the Gen I FJRs (2003-2005).
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The following changes apply to the 2006-2008 FJR. The big difference is color and the specific differences to 2008 are listed further below.
(There is info above in the 03-05 section that still applies as well)
1. All new unified braking system with computer controlled ABS. When the front brake is applied, all 4 front LHS caliper pistons are activated, and only the "upper" two pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated. When applying the rear brake, the rear caliper piston is activated plus the two lower pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated.
In short, the front brake will not activate the rear, but the rear will give you partial braking on the front
2. Electrically adjustable windscreen was totally revised for 2006. The windshield features a fresh air duct at the bottom to reduce the vacuum tendency (negative pressure) in the cockpit area.
3. Adjustable two-piece seat features an adjustment range of 20mm (0.8") for the rider portion of the seat. There are two steps of adjustment via specially designed eccentric rubbers. Different foam densities for the front and rear sections.
4. All new adjustable handlebars offers three positions of adjustability. From the centre position, the bars can be adjusted 5.5 mm forward or 5.5mm back towards the rider. Total adjustment range is 11mm.
5. Revised storage compartment. Inside the compartment is a 12 volt 30 watt DC power outlet.
6. Middle cowl features a 2 - position adjustable visor / vent. The adjustment range is 30mm via quick turn fasteners.
The intended purpose is;
When the vents are open, cool air is deflected away from the rider thus allowing more of the warm air to be felt.
When the vents are closed, more cool air is allowed to neutralize the warm air that reaches the rider.
7. Air flow management has been optimized to reduce the amount of heat that flows to the rider. There are vents on the outside of each headlight to allow cool air into the cockpit and fuel tank areas. There is also a fresh air vent below the instrument assembly.
8. The fuses are on the right side behind the battery.
9. The radiator is "curved" and has a rad guard. It is completely new and different from previous models.
10. Many FJR specific farkles (add-ons) that owners put on the 03-05s will not work on the later models. (i.e. Bar Risers, Sliders, Fenda Extenda, Rad Guard etc).
You need specific farkles for your bike year.
The older FZ1 mirrors I mentioned above do fit on Gen II bikes.
11. What's the loose wire under the dash area of my bike? It's a "thermistor" for the temperature sensor. Talked about here and many other places.
Don't forget... Rickster's Bin-O-Facts on 06-08s
The following is a chart of the 2006-2008 FJRs.
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The following changes apply to the 2008 FJR from 2006/2007. The 2008 is still a Gen II, it just has a few changes from previous.
1. Revised throttle pulley shape for improved drivability, smoother throttle action and improved throttle feeling.
2. Middle gear damper spring load is increased for improved feeling at clutch engagement & better overall shifting feel.
3. Revised 3 & 4 pinion gears feature and additional dog for improved shifting feel.
4. Revised engine ECU settings for improved drivability.
5. All new ABS system. The ABS or Anti Lock Braking System now features a linear controlled 3 position system (Vs 2 position in the past), an ECU integrated compact hydraulic unit and a new active type wheel sensor with a new magnetic rotor. The benefit is a reduced weight and better lever feedback feeling when the system is operating.
6. Revised front and rear rims to accommodate the new ABS sensors.
7. The windshield has been revised. A new hard coating on the windshield surface helps to prevent scratching. The internal screen holder or base has been revised from a 2 piece to a 1 piece design to reduce weight. The external cover for the activation arms is changed to rubber to reduce noise. And finally, the internal mounting system for the windshield has been revised to reduce the vibration of the windshield at speed.
8. The instrumentation meter cover has been revised from silver finish to a black metallic finish to reduce glare on the windscreen.
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FJR Break-in (any year) is a much debated topic. The answer is, just ride it. There are a few methods described on the internet but they all have some holes in them.
You can change your oil as soon as you want and you can change it to synthetic (if you desire) as soon as you want, period.
The technology of the 21st century is much different than previous. Simply put, engines are much better.
You don't have to "scrub" in an engine and engines don't come with break-in oil anymore. You don't have to granny an engine for the first however many miles either.
The best thing to do to your engine and all the bike's components is to ride it, go through all the gears, and keep it maintained (fluids, filters etc). Use you RPM range in all gears (staying out of redline) and vary your speed/RPM.
The only thing you don't want to do is run constant/sustained RPM for a long time (It is mentioned in you owner's manual) during the first 500-600 miles or so. Ride the damn thing!
And lastly, what does FJR stand for.....It does not stand for anything.
There are no "words" associated with the acronym. Wikipedia - FJR1300
It is a bike that evolved from the earlier Yamaha FJ1100 and FJ1200
***ADMIN NOTE: This posting has been edited by the author (initially FJRottie and then Kevin Daly) to incorporate contributions by other members. The administrator (Ignacio) then deleted those posts to keep the thread orderly. Feel free to add replies. The author will continue to incorporate contributory information. ***
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