New part #'s for Gen I front caliper seals ($91 delivered)

[Zorlac]

I'm ordering the caliper seal kits from Ron Ayers right now and I thought that it was interesting that the old p/n's have been superseded by seals that actually cost less....hope they're no worse than the old parts that are a literal drag. :dribble:

3MA-W0047-10-00 CALIPER SEAL KIT $20.55

superseded part #

Mfg. Part Number: 3MA-25803-10-00

SKU: 1753719

MSRP: $26.60

Your Price: $18.35

3GM-W0047-10-00 CALIPER SEAL KIT $33.98

superseded part #

Mfg. Part Number: 3GM-25803-10-00

SKU: 1753710

MSRP: $28.52

Your Price: $19.68

Bike Bandit wants list price and RA's shipping seems to have tripled ($15) since my last order though... :angry:

 

[SkooterG]

Did you check Cyclepartswarehouse?

 

[Zorlac]

Did you check Cyclepartswarehouse?

No, I haven't used them before and I'm afraid to check now that you mention them. :lol:

 

[SCB]

....hope they're no worse than the old parts that are a literal drag.

Does a rebuild fix that? I don't actually have a problem with my FJR but I also have a GSX-R that seems to have a lot of front brake drag. It's an '05 that I bought last fall with 3800 miles so it must have sat for quite a while.

 

[wfooshee]

New seals is the exact thing for dragging brakes. The old seals don't let the piston back into the caliper cylinder smoothly, so some brake pressure is maintained on the rotor.

 

[Bungie]

I did pads and seals this past winter on the front, over $300!

 

[Zorlac]

New seals is the exact thing for dragging brakes. The old seals don't let the piston back into the caliper cylinder smoothly, so some brake pressure is maintained on the rotor.

My seal kits came with red grease in a packet, just curious how you applied this grease?As always, my search for internet opinions on reassembling the pistons and seals were all over the map. :blink:

 

[wfooshee]

I'd put the grease on with my finger after seating the seal in the caliper. Then slide the piston in.

Then suck the grease off your finger.

 

[Zorlac]

Not to over think this, but if the square seal that deforms a bit to retract the piston is too slippery can it still pull the piston back in OK?

Only asking this since you've said that your calipers didn't drag after this exercise & that's what I'm after.

 

[Bungie]

I smeared the seals with the grease very lightly before installation.

Oh, don't suck it off your fingers after. Trust me on this.

Little tip for bleeding your brakes. Do it the best you can, chances are you will still have a spongy lever afterwards despite bleeding through 1.6 gallons of brake fluid. Level off the master cylinder and put the cap back on (no screws). Squeeze the lever and tie it off against the bar like that. Let it sit over night. In the morning, remove the tie off, and pump the lever a couple of times. You should be rewarded with a much firmer lever.

 

[wfooshee]

Not to over think this, but if the square seal that deforms a bit to retract the piston is too slippery can it still pull the piston back in OK?

Only asking this since you've said that your calipers didn't drag after this exercise & that's what I'm after.

It's not so much that it retracts the piston, it's that it allows it to release. Bad seals jam the release of the piston, keeping very slight pressure on the pad and rotor. It's the slippery that you want.

 

[SCB]

...you've said that your calipers didn't drag after this exercise & that's what I'm after.

So how'd this work out? I'm looking for a project for next weekend!

 

[Zorlac]

...you've said that your calipers didn't drag after this exercise & that's what I'm after.

So how'd this work out? I'm looking for a project for next weekend!

I'm trying to bleed them right now, whole lotta air in dare! :angry: The rebuild was a cake walk but bleeding them, well, that kinda sucks. :glare:

 

[Bungie]

I'm trying to bleed them right now, whole lotta air in dare! :angry:

The rebuild was a cake walk but bleeding them, well, that kinda sucks. :glare:

Tip Part 2. If you look inside the reservoir of the master cylinder. You'll see the two holes on the bottom. One has a little cap on it. That's the check valve. LIGHTLY pressing that down while squeezing lever will make filling the lines go MUCH faster.

 

[Zorlac]

I got fed up with conventional bleeding and just pulled a vacuum on the MC reservoir, after the brake fluid stopped foaming up from the vacuum all was well.

Even took it for a little spin down my street to whack the front ABS a few times, don't need no stinkin jumper.

I'd say the pad drag is about 1/3 of what it was since I could get about one revolution on the front wheel giving it a spin, now I get about three. Rolling it around is a whole lot easier too, that kinda surprised me. :thumbsup:

Maybe those gold plated seals will pay for themselves with a few MPG increase. :blink:

 

[dcarver]

Interesting.