New suspension settings

[HotRodZilla]

Man...Glad I finally picked up on this thread. I had changed the rear settings to 7 the night I bought the bike, but never touched the front; mainly because I had no idea what did what. I guess I never looked hard enough for the info, but now that I made the changes, I'm pretty impressed. A much more solid ride and it seems like it takes the pegs longer to drag. I feel like I slept in a Holiday Inn Express last night!!!

 

[stagecoach]

Note - This post was originally made for a 2005 model. See subsequent posts for information on 2007 and later models.
Rickster recently posted a reply that contained this reference:

SPortRider.com shows for the FJR:
Front 2 lines

rebound 4 clicks out

compression 7 clicks out

rear preload - hard

rear rebound 3 clicks out

(rear compression is not adjustable on stock shock)

Now I consider those settings to be a bit "harsh". I especially don't like running the rear rebound that stiff. My personal experience is that anytime you adjust suspension clickers to near their limit, performance becomes questionable and the suspension behaves erratically. So I devised compromised settings as follows:

Rider weight: 183 lbs.

Typical Bike Payload: Yamaha side bags and top bag, 25 lbs. added cargo

Riding style: Moderately aggressive, frequent 3-digit speeds, rapid braking and acceleration common.

FRONT

* Preload, Line-2 (this means one line exposed above the cap, one line flush with the cap/adjuster). Stock setting is Line-3.

* Rebound, 6 clicks out. Stock setting is 12-clicks out. (this is the top adjustment)

* Compression, 8 clicks out. Stock setting is 12-clicks out. (this is the bottom adjustment that protrudes off the side of the fork)

REAR

* Preload - Hard (find the lever!)

* Rebound - 6 clicks out. Stock is 10-clicks out. (think of the rear rebound clicker as a right-hand thread)

Hi Jeff,

I have a quick question relating to your venerable old thread here. When you say Line 2 for the front preload, are you counting the bottom of the adjuster "nut" as line 1 as they show in the Owner's Manual? You state the stock setting is 3, but my OM says stock is 4. So, when I am at what I believe to be line 3, I see 1 actual ring and the adjuster nut above the cap. (Am I reading the manual incorrectly?) Semantics, I know, but it's the difference of one setting so I wanted to be sure.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Hi Jeff,
I have a quick question relating to your venerable old thread here. When you say Line 2 for the front preload, are you counting the bottom of the adjuster "nut" as line 1 as they show in the Owner's Manual? You state the stock setting is 3, but my OM says stock is 4. So, when I am at what I believe to be line 3, I see 1 actual ring and the adjuster nut above the cap. (Am I reading the manual incorrectly?) Semantics, I know, but it's the difference of one setting so I wanted to be sure.

I don't have access to the service manual at the moment, and my old mind can't recall exactly how Mami-Yami specifies the setting. But when I say two(2) lines, that means one line clearly visible and the second line sitting just above the nut (barely visible).

I tend to think of that adjustment more in terms of "sections" than lines. So think of it as two "sections" exposed. Hope that helps. A picture would be worth a thousand words but I had to ride the cager to work today.

 

[stagecoach]

Hi Jeff,
I have a quick question relating to your venerable old thread here. When you say Line 2 for the front preload, are you counting the bottom of the adjuster "nut" as line 1 as they show in the Owner's Manual? You state the stock setting is 3, but my OM says stock is 4. So, when I am at what I believe to be line 3, I see 1 actual ring and the adjuster nut above the cap. (Am I reading the manual incorrectly?) Semantics, I know, but it's the difference of one setting so I wanted to be sure.

I don't have access to the service manual at the moment, and my old mind can't recall exactly how Mami-Yami specifies the setting. But when I say two(2) lines, that means one line clearly visible and the second line sitting just above the nut (barely visible).

I tend to think of that adjustment more in terms of "sections" than lines. So think of it as two "sections" exposed. Hope that helps. A picture would be worth a thousand words but I had to ride the cager to work today.

Thanks for the info and the fast response, you're doing good work here

 

[FJRottie]

I like this setup Jeff. Thanks.

 

[amansker]

I found this info very helpful for suspension settings - especially the diagnostics.

https://aprilia.rsvmille.home.comcast.net/~...nsion_guide.htm

 

[K-2]

Finally got around to doing this. What an improvement! Thanks, Jeff!

 

[fattymoon]

Me too thankee Jeff this info. Me do exact thingie this morning and, whoopdeedoo, bike transformed oversized crotch rocket maybe for sure maybe.

(Can't pinpoint any one thing, but, really, the handling of my bike now gives me greater confidence in the twisties. Reminds me of my Interceptor.)

 

[Special_K]

I've been trying various front suspension settings over the last few days and I can't seem to land on the magic combination.

I either get terrible front end dive under hard braking or the ride is so harsh it makes my fillings loose.

Help me collective brain trust, what is the secret formula?

 

[HaulinAshe]

Help me collective brain trust, what is the secret formula?

The secret to the formula is that there is no single formula. Answer these questions and I'll try to help you:

Q. How much do you weigh nearly naked (I try never to picture anyone on this forum naked!)?

Q. Do you typically ride solo or two-up? If two-up, how much does the passenger weigh naked (If female, please include naked photos... j/k )?

Q. Do you ride with no bags, side bags only, three bags? How much weight loaded in all total?

Q. Year model of your FJR, tires mounted, air pressure front/rear?

Q. What's your favorite and most frequently sought-after road type; WFO, Sweepers, Twisties?

(Sweepers are curves with posted warnings of 30 mph or greater)

(Twisties are curves with posted warnings of 25 mph or less)

(All others are classified as WFO!)

Q. When approacing a familiar curve, what entry speed do you typically target?

A - (1.0 times the posted warning)

B - (1.5 times the posted warning)

C - (2.0 times the posted warning)

D - (Are you kidding??? I don't have time to look at the damn speedo!)

I just realized that I should make a PDF form of this for future use.



Of course I am having some fun with your question. But there is a great deal of seriousness to the process of considering basic rider and ride characteristics before touching suspension adjustments.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I've been trying various front suspension settings over the last few days and I can't seem to land on the magic combination. I either get terrible front end dive under hard braking or the ride is so harsh it makes my fillings loose.

Help me collective brain trust, what is the secret formula?

I thought I might also try this answer...

Always approach suspension settings in SPRC order.

Spring rate

Preload

Rebound

Compression

If you weigh less than 220 lbs., then you are probably okay with stock FJR springs.

Try adjusting your compression clickers wide-open, or nearly so. BE CAREFUL IF YOU RIDE THIS WAY!!!

Then adjust rebound to get the "return rate" that feels and acts best. You want the bike to return to normal ride height without feeling like an ejector seat (rebound too loose), or remaining squatted (packing/rebound too tight) over sequential light bumps.

The last thing you touch is compression.

 

[Jagermeister]

I just realized that I should make a PDF form of this for future use.

Haulin' Ashe's Tire & Suspension Consulting.

Could be a whole new business model.

 

[phil]

Could you just build us a Powerpoint chart, where we plug-in all the numbers, and get the perfect answer every time?

 

[Alex]

I have to admit. I wasn't thinking that there would be that much vibration removed by performing the suspension changes. My 07 was setup pretty well where it was. It has been much better than the 03, and 04 that I've owned. I weigh exactly the same as Jeff, give or take a pound. His recommendations were fantastic. The front end feels much smoother over this crappy concrete highway that was close. Nearly ALL the vibrations washed away when traveling down the interstate. I put it to triple digits and there was almost an eerie feeling with the ever increasing vibration almost gone.

In the the past I've installed heavier bar ends which just moved the buzzy feeling to a different spot on the RPM range. When I had them on the 03 (suspension was tuned), it actually made the vibes worse. I installed them on the 07 and it did much the same.

So in the last few days, I've fixed the Audiovox cruise as well as dialed in the suspension. I love getting something for free for once.

This forum rocks!!

 

[Special_K]

I thought I might also try this answer...
Always approach suspension settings in SPRC order.

Spring rate

Preload

Rebound

Compression

If you weigh less than 220 lbs., then you are probably okay with stock FJR springs.

Try adjusting your compression clickers wide-open, or nearly so. BE CAREFUL IF YOU RIDE THIS WAY!!!

Then adjust rebound to get the "return rate" that feels and acts best. You want the bike to return to normal ride height without feeling like an ejector seat (rebound too loose), or remaining squatted (packing/rebound too tight) over sequential light bumps.

The last thing you touch is compression.

It's a Canukistan holiday tomorrow and excellent wx predicted. I'll try your suggestions (carefully) in small increments.

Thanks for the thoughtful reply Jeff. As has been said many times, "This Forum Rocks"!!

 

[Old Michael]

Add me to the list of happy adherents. I'm 190 or so, and did the setup you suggested.

Ran the piss out of it over the weekend, and it felt great. Can't put my finger on the difference,

but in the twisties it just feels "good". I'll play with it some more, but I'm happy as a clam with the improvement.

Now Jeff, I'm having some problems with this gal I'm seeing, and I was wondering what you'd

recommend when she ...

Thanks again.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Alex, I love the new vinyl!

You guys are very welcomed. I'm glad the changes are working for you.

Now when it comes to women, I'm the LAST guy you want advice from! In an entire lifetime, I've yet to learn how to properly adjust ****s, I just keep trying.

 

[beacher]

So, Jeff, what would you propose for 145 lb.er, whose only had his bike for about 600 miles? It seems as if most of the guys make me look "petite"! I've gotten jarred pretty hard, a few times, as Tacoma seems a little lax about keeping their streets in good repair; I did set the spring to the hard setting, but from the reactions from all the guys here, I have a feeling that I could be in for a really pleasant surprise.

 

[HaulinAshe]

So, Jeff, what would you propose for 145 lb.er, whose only had his bike for about 600 miles? It seems as if most of the guys make me look "petite"! I've gotten jarred pretty hard, a few times, as Tacoma seems a little lax about keeping their streets in good repair; I did set the spring to the hard setting, but from the reactions from all the guys here, I have a feeling that I could be in for a really pleasant surprise.

I'll start by saying that 90% of the time I ride with the rear preload set to SOFT. No sh!t, soft!!! And probably 70% of my riding time is 2-up with a total human weight of 325 lbs.

IMHO one of the most common suspension mistakes made on the FJR is running the rear preload on HARD to compensate for too soft a rebound setting. Having said that, one caveat is that I use HARD for added ground clearance whenever I'm fully loaded and/or don't want to work so hard. The less lean angle you use, the less ground clearance required, but the more physical effort required by the pilot.

At 145 lbs. I would start with a rear rebound setting of 8-clicks and front rebound of 9-clicks. Front preload at three segments showing (stock) and probably something like 8-clicks of front compression. Try the bike on SOFT and work on minimizing the required lean angle rather than how deep you can lay her over.

A good rule of thumb for stock Yamaha front suspension clickers is "always keep the front compression and rebound clickers within two clicks."

So if you set front rebound to 6-clicks, make sure you are running compression 4-8 clicks. Any further away than two clicks and you are drastically deviating from the intended fluid behavior.

Personally, I never run less than 4-clicks or more than 12-clicks on any setup, despite what the Yami manual says is the "useable range".

In any case, your suspension is going to need many more miles before any reasonable evaluation can be made. I would estimate some substantial changes around 2,000 miles will be felt, with continued gradual changes up to 10,000 miles.

Just my $.02

 

[Niehart]

Ya mean that I didn't have to pay all that cash for GP suspension? :derisive: