New torque wrench suggestions

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Fyrfyghtr

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It's time to buy a torque wrench. What range of torque specs should I be looking for? Should I get two wrenches? Anyone got any suggestions?

 
for 15 bucks each (on sale in the store with 20% off coupon)...

I have each a harbor freight 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive

of course the 3/8" is the only essential one...for axle bolts and suspension work and home stuff on the Feej, the quality and accuracy is good enough IMHO

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=torque+wrench

 
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It's time to buy a torque wrench. What range of torque specs should I be looking for? Should I get two wrenches? Anyone got any suggestions?
It'll depend on what you need it for. Consider the torque range in which you will be requiring it for and find a torque wrench that utilizes that range in the middle of it's capability. A 3/8 torque wrench with a range of 15-100 lb ft will torque at 100 but not as accurately as a 1/2 in drive with a range of 50-200. I personally quit purchasing cheap torque wrenches after having an engine grenade when rod bolts backed off and head bolts were loose. I have personally had good luck with S&K, SnapOn, and Cornwell torque wrenches. I have also had three Nebsco's that failed miserably. A good torque wrench is not cheap but when considering what it is utilized for, worth spending the money. In the long run it is considerably less expensive than failed components from under or over torqued fasteners, tires falling off, spun bearings, etc.

 
I've got three, the first is a 3/8 "clicker" in inch pounds (up to 250 I think), the next is a 3/8 "clicker" type up to 90 ft. lbs., and the last is a 1/2 beam type that goes to 120 ft. lbs. I use the middle one the most, and usually only use the beam type for tightening the axle nuts.

 
+1 on them working best in the middle of their range.

I started with 1 that I needed for a certain task. Over the years I now have 3; 2 ft/lbs in different ranges and 1 in in/lbs for the lighter stuff.

 
You get what you pay for. The Harbor Freight torque wrenches have a very vague feeling...not a positive click when the torque range is reached. Sears and better wrenches come with calibration records and have a very positive feel. I just don't have that much confidence in the cheap ones, but they are better than nothing. Fred W posted a method for checking torque calibration. Seems like a good idea.

 
It's time to buy a torque wrench. What range of torque specs should I be looking for? Should I get two wrenches? Anyone got any suggestions?
It'll depend on what you need it for. Consider the torque range in which you will be requiring it for and find a torque wrench that utilizes that range in the middle of it's capability.
That's exactly what I am asking. What torque range should I get for working on the FJR.

 
It's time to buy a torque wrench. What range of torque specs should I be looking for? Should I get two wrenches? Anyone got any suggestions?
It'll depend on what you need it for. Consider the torque range in which you will be requiring it for and find a torque wrench that utilizes that range in the middle of it's capability.
That's exactly what I am asking. What torque range should I get for working on the FJR.
Click on this: Torque Wrench This should work for about 98% of your maintenance needs. And it's a good quality wrench.

 
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I had a coupon for each of the harbor freight torque wrenches 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 for $10 each. Good enough for me. Alot of things I wrench I just use the "good enough" method with a regular wrench. Never has failed me too.

 
I had a coupon for each of the harbor freight torque wrenches 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 for $10 each. Good enough for me. Alot of things I wrench I just use the "good enough" method with a regular wrench. Never has failed me too.
torque wrenches fall into the class of "precision tools". it's a class you don't want "good enough". investing in a precision tool that's actually precise seems self evident.

 
I had a coupon for each of the harbor freight torque wrenches 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 for $10 each. Good enough for me. Alot of things I wrench I just use the "good enough" method with a regular wrench. Never has failed me too.
torque wrenches fall into the class of "precision tools". it's a class you don't want "good enough". investing in a precision tool that's actually precise seems self evident.
+1

 
Spending alot on a torque wrench only guarantees you spent alot. Even the high priced torque wrenches have variations of about 3%. I think the harbor freight ones say 5%. On a bolt or nut that says tighen to 20#, that difference amounts to a max differential of 1#. Just user technique can account for that much. And being 1# (or 5%)off on tighening is insignificant for any wrenching that I would ever be doing. By the way, between uses of a torque wrench, be sure to untighen to zero.

But WTH, just my opinion.

 
Spending alot on a torque wrench only guarantees you spent alot. Even the high priced torque wrenches have variations of about 3%. I think the harbor freight ones say 5%. On a bolt or nut that says tighen to 20#, that difference amounts to a max differential of 1#. Just user technique can account for that much. And being 1# (or 5%)off on tighening is insignificant for any wrenching that I would ever be doing. By the way, between uses of a torque wrench, be sure to untighen to zero.

But WTH, just my opinion.
Yup...A torque wrench is about the most un-precise "precision" tool out there. If my mics, calipers, or scopes were off by 3%, they'd be in the trash. However, they're much better than just doing it by "feel."

 
Spending alot on a torque wrench only guarantees you spent alot. Even the high priced torque wrenches have variations of about 3%. I think the harbor freight ones say 5%. On a bolt or nut that says tighen to 20#, that difference amounts to a max differential of 1#. Just user technique can account for that much. And being 1# (or 5%)off on tighening is insignificant for any wrenching that I would ever be doing. By the way, between uses of a torque wrench, be sure to untighen to zero.

But WTH, just my opinion.
Yup...A torque wrench is about the most un-precise "precision" tool out there. If my mics, calipers, or scopes were off by 3%, they'd be in the trash. However, they're much better than just doing it by "feel."
You mean my crescent wrench with the inch markings on one side and the millimeter markings on the other isn't precise enough? Certainly they're within the 3%.

 
You get what you pay for. If you are going to spend $10 on a H.F., you might as well keep your money and guess with a rachet. I have a 40-220 inch/pound and a 10-150 foot/pound. The only thing I can't use it on is my Ducati wheel nut at 170 ft/lbs. You should expect to spend $100-$200 for a good in/lb and $200-$300 for a ft/lb.

For comparison, a Snap-on in/lb would be closer to $300and a ft/lb would be between $400-$500. Mac would be slightly less, Craftsman would be super cheap in comparison.

These prices are for click-type, I would stay away from the deflecting bar type, and I don't like the digital type. A good click-type can be recalibrated, so you could consider a used Snap-on or Mac if you can find them. Price would depend on if it had been calibrated. You might be able to find one in a pawn shop and have it calibrated for a good price if you shop around.

 
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