NikWax Rocks!

[twowheelnut]

My Olympia AST and Olympia riding pants had lost their waterproofing and were quite grimy after NAFO, and needed to be A) burned or 2) cleaned. I chose option 2, as a new suit ain't in the cards anytime soon. I remembered reading the praises of NikWax over to ST.n (a forum member worked at NW and was a fountain of great info and tips), so I decided to try and resurrect my old suit (and WP, insulated liners) using these magic potions.

Tech Wash to clean (front loader, synthetic settings) Wash in, TX-Direct Wash In re-waterproofer (same settings, drip dry) did a fabulous job of cleaning and proofing. My old suit looks damn near new (NW even got out some gnarly blood stains that had been setting for 4+ months!). Water beads right off, whether a few drips from the faucet or at full blast.

For 20 bucks, I now have a clean, waterproof set of riding outerwear again.

This stuff is the shiznit and these products are TWN

Check it.

 

[Geezer]

I used the same stuff to wash and waterproof my old Kili jacket and HT pants. The jacket came out OK, but the pants would still let water through. I had given up on Nikwax but I keep reading about other people having success. Maybe I'll give it one more chance.

I know that some people like Scotchgiard, but Scotchguard reputedly clogs up the fabric and blocks some of the breathability of the gear while Nikwax does not.

 

[jekirby]

Sold the stuff for years and continue to use it. Nothing brings back the DWR on waterproof/breathable gear like it.

 

[SkooterG]

Ahhhh.............what a timely thread.

I too, seem to be experiencing a reduction in waterproofness with two of my jackets. One a Tourmaster, the other a Fieldsheer.

Called Fieldsheer and actually talked to a person. They said never to wash the jacket with harsh petroleum based detergent (I never did) and always wash with cold water, and air dry. They said petroleum based detergents and heat can break down the membrane in the jacket that does the waterproofing. She suggested I try some type of spray on waterproof ****. Like Scotchguard. She didn't recommend one specific brand.

No talky with person at Tourmaster, but they did send an email with the following:

To attempt tore-waterproof your garment, I suggest you try a product such as Camp-Dri orNik-Wax. I cannot guarantee that it is going to work, but you may wish totry it in a spot prior to coating the garment to see what result it gives.

So I have been researching various products. I have been looking at the Camp-Dri, or Nik-wax spray, but not the wash. According to the Aerostitch website, to get the Nik-wax wash in stuff to work properly, you need to wash it in on 'warm' setting, and dry the jacket with heat. Definite no-nos according to the jacket manufacturers.

So anybody out there know what the deal is? Timmy, did you wash/dry with heat? Will the wash in Nikwax work without using heat? Or do I just get a spray?

 

[twowheelnut]

According to the Aerostitch website, to get the Nik-wax wash in stuff to work properly, you need to wash it in on 'warm' setting, and dry the jacket with heat. Definite no-nos according to the jacket manufacturers.
Timmy, did you wash/dry with heat? Will the wash in Nikwax work without using heat?

NikWax suggests you use the 'synthetic' settings on front loaders (that's what I have). On mine, that translates to; warm wash/cold rinse, ultra low spin. This applies to the wash and wash-in WP'er. In both cases, drip dry is recommended - NO HEAT.

There are some brands out there that require heat on the wash-in stuff which is why I opted for the NW.

BTW, NW makes the spray-on stuff too, but I'm basically lazy and didn't want to 'wipe of the excess'. You, my twiddle-the-thumbs friend, prolly wouldn't mind that extra bit of work involved.

 

[radman]

NikWax suggests you use the 'synthetic' settings on front loaders (that's what I have). On mine, that translates to; warm wash/cold rinse, ultra low spin. This applies to the wash and wash-in WP'er. In both cases, drip dry is recommended - NO HEAT.

I would imagine then that the "Delicate" on a top loader would be perfect.

 

[Fred W]

Nothing like a good laundry thread to get the ole' testosterone flowing!!

Seriously, good info. I pro'ly need to do my old jacket.

 

[mdisher]

You guys know way too much about laundry. That's all I'm sayin...

 

[twowheelnut]

I would imagine then that the "Delicate" on a top loader would be perfect.

Yep. If your machine has an ultra low setting for the spin cycle, I'd use that, too. If not, cancel the spin cycle altogether.

Nothing like a good laundry thread to get the ole' testosterone flowing!!

Seriously, good info. I pro'ly need to do my old jacket.

You guys know way too much about laundry. That's all I'm sayin...

Hey, when your wife won't go near the stank suits, what else ya gonna do?

 

[stryg8r]

I've followed Aerostich's instructions with good results.

https://www.aerostich.com/files/readings/20...0&width=800

And always pay attention to what Mr. Subjective has to say.

https://www.aerostich.com/files/readings/20...0&width=800

And...

https://www.aerostich.com/files/readings/20...0&width=800

 

[luvtoride]

I've used Nikwax a couple of times. Pretty good stuff... but I have had mixed results. It seems to do ok with fabrics that were rock solid waterproof in the first place.

That said, I'll be using it within the next month or so to get my gear ready for winter.

It seems to work best when the garments are left to soak in it for a little while... & run through the dryer cycle for a bit. I don't remember, but I don't think that the garment needs to be left in the dryer until the garment is dry... just long enough to set the wash in stuff.

 

[radman]

I would imagine then that the "Delicate" on a top loader would be perfect.

Yep. If your machine has an ultra low setting for the spin cycle, I'd use that, too. If not, cancel the spin cycle altogether.

Delicate setting automatically includes a light spin-made for sweaters, fine fabrics etc.

radman-charter member

 

[twowheelnut]

:lol:

 

[Grumpy]

My Olympia AST and Olympia riding pants had lost their waterproofing and were quite grimy after NAFO, and needed to be A) burned or 2) cleaned. I chose option 2, as a new suit ain't in the cards anytime soon. I remembered reading the praises of NikWax over to ST.n (a forum member worked at NW and was a fountain of great info and tips), so I decided to try and resurrect my old suit (and WP, insulated liners) using these magic potions.
Tech Wash to clean (front loader, synthetic settings) Wash in, TX-Direct Wash In re-waterproofer (same settings, drip dry) did a fabulous job of cleaning and proofing. My old suit looks damn near new (NW even got out some gnarly blood stains that had been setting for 4+ months!). Water beads right off, whether a few drips from the faucet or at full blast.

For 20 bucks, I now have a clean, waterproof set of riding outerwear again.

This stuff is the shiznit and these products are TWN

Check it.

Really good stuff. I spent 3 days riding in rain last fall after having NikWax'd the Stich stuff and had not a single leak!

jim

 

[HIGHLANDER]

Rode for days and days in Alaska with my Nikwax'd 'stich... never leaked! B)

Brand new Ranger2 pants never leaked either! :yahoo:

 

[SkooterG]

Ok, highlander and grumpy - care to be more specific?

Wash-in NikWax? Or spray on?

 

[Ric in Sac]

GAWD - Is this the twilight zone? I feel like I stepped into the middle of a commercial . . .

Any suggestions on what Scooter can use to help him smell nice too?

 

[twowheelnut]

Any suggestions on what Scooter can use to help him smell nice too?

What, you mean he stopped ********?

 

[SockMonkey]

Is it my imagination or does this gal have a nice rack..? Come here, honey, I've got a bit of "NikWax" for ya..!