no start.... please help if you can

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Starter relay is what I was thinking also. Check and see how many volts on the hot side of the relay then push the button and see how many on the starter side.

 
I have a spare starter relay by chance. I will try it with bolted connections to my truck battery. My jumper was made with 10 AWG wire.

 
Yes Dcarver... lots of corrosion. I am aware. I live @ the beach & bike lives outdoors. Its covered but... I live at the beach.

Ya' know what, the starter relay just went through my head while I was at lunch, today. Don't know why... guess I was being psycho or psychic. I'm really not savvy to it's function except that you NEED it to function correctly. That would be good in a way except Bob already has the starter out. Seriously, he mentioned that he was taking starter out & he was sending me pics of it opened up about 15-20 minutes later. I cannot believe that he had the bike apart so fast. I saw what was involved with getting it out/in.

 
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After you have done it more than once, it isn't that big of a deal. Besides, I already had the tank off.

 
BTW, as an update, when I took the starter out I turned it by hand and it felt like it didn't turn as easy as I thought it should. I took it apart to inspect everything and found it clean and the brushes, armature and windings in decent shape. I wondered, however, how I was going to get it back together as there are 4 brushes. I was able to use two of the very small binder clips for two of the brushes and held the other two by hand. After getting it back together I turned it by hand again and it now feels like it rotates much easier. I will be testing it at Powerman's house Saturday as he has a DC clamp meter to monitor current draw.

 
BTW, as an update, when I took the starter out I turned it by hand and it felt like it didn't turn as easy as I thought it should. I took it apart to inspect everything and found it clean and the brushes, armature and windings in decent shape. I wondered, however, how I was going to get it back together as there are 4 brushes. I was able to use two of the very small binder clips for two of the brushes and held the other two by hand. After getting it back together I turned it by hand again and it now feels like it rotates much easier. I will be testing it at Powerman's house Saturday as he has a DC clamp meter to monitor current draw.
Too late now but this makes the job so easy so worth posting and may help others.

One trick I discovered when reassembling the motor to keep the brushes out of the way. On the back edge of the brush holders is a tiny notch, put there so we can hook the spring end into it, thus leaving the brushes fully retracted until the commutator is part way home.

Steve

 
Scott, that is not a DC ammeter. It will read DC volts, so that is why "DC" is in the title. Look at the product description!

 
Like the Uni T one.

I have one of their DVM’s and it’s well made and accurate. Looks good too that is until you spill goo gone on it. F*kin shite.

Max amp range is 100 though, what happens when this is exceeded? My starter pulled 200+ amps shown on a borrowed Fluke.

 
If you are using a real ammeter it will blow a fuse when you over range it. With a clamp-on, since the current doesn't actually flow thru the meter, I would just expect the gauge to max out with no damage to the instrument.

But I could be wrong.

 
Got one of them a while back, mainly for the DC mA range. Checked the mA range against my Fluke 87, was reasonably close

35568194243_598a409225_c.jpg


Checked the upper DC range against my Fluke 36, also close, within a couple amps at 79 amps

35568193173_6d2ce865f3_z.jpg


 
I wish I had a better understanding of electricity. I know just enough to get in trouble. Envious of you techie guys.....

 
My brother tells the story of a girlfriend who was so clueless about electricity that, when he commented about sneaking some home from work in his lunch pale, she believed him.

 
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Solenoid... please excuse my unmechanicalness... are the solenoid & the relay one in the same?

 
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