Normal Gen II water temp gauge swing?

[wfooshee]

Heh. Whoa there. I'm anal, not mental. I'll just replace the thermostat next time I strip it for PAIR, plugs and some new wiring. Cheap insurance, just wanted to be sure this wasn't an immediate issue.

And it won't do anything different. Unless, of course, the coolant was low before you opened it up and was full after. Then it would be different. But not because of the new thermostat.

Seriously, the only way it would reach fan temp while moving would be for the radiator to be blocked, or the system to be low on water.

And the only way it would not reach fan temp while stuck in stop-n-go traffic would be for the engine to not be running.

It.

is.

working.

as.

designed.

 

[900gc]

Heh. Whoa there. I'm anal, not mental. I'll just replace the thermostat next time I strip it for PAIR, plugs and some new wiring. Cheap insurance, just wanted to be sure this wasn't an immediate issue.

And it won't do anything different. Unless, of course, the coolant was low before you opened it up and was full after. Then it would be different. But not because of the new thermostat.

Seriously, the only way it would reach fan temp while moving would be for the radiator to be blocked, or the system to be low on water.

And the only way it would not reach fan temp while stuck in stop-n-go traffic would be for the engine to not be running.

It.

is.

working.

as.

designed.

SHOULD HAVE TYPED IN ALL CAPS TO BE REALLY SURE. Good thing there's no oil temp gauge on these things huh? BRB, gotta go change the air in my tires. See what happens sitting bored at work at 1am!

 

[jcyuhn]

Save your $$$. Your bike is operating as designed. My '06 is exactly the same. Four bars is normal operating temp. In stopped or slow moving traffic, lack of airflow across the radiator causes it to heat up to 7 bars, at which point the electric fans are switched on.

Likely your Italian cars had an engine driven fan drawing air across the radiator. So they were able to dump heat even when stopped.

Dunno about the ST13. Japanese cars typically have an "***** guage" that points at the same location for every engine temperature from just above cold to just below boiling. Maybe Honda does something similar in that 3 bars covers the entire "normal" operating range of the engine. Don't assume the gauge is linear and that each bar represents an equal temperature range - it's driven by software and can display anything the designers choose.

Edit: A quick google brings up the following confirmation that the ST13 does indeed have an ***** guage: https://www.st1300.us.com/showthread.php?t=1855

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Edit: A quick google brings up the following confirmation that the ST13 does indeed have an ***** guage: https://www.st1300.us...read.php?t=1855

NO! The ST1300 does not have an ***** gauge. We may have to be idiots to ride the ugly *******, but the gauge has nothing to do with that!

The Temp "Gauge" on the ST1300 works just like the "Gauge" on a Gen2 FJR. It just has fewer bars or blocks or exclamation points or whatever you wish to call the indicator marks. On startup there are no blocks lit. After a couple of minutes it warms up and the "gauge" has one block. A couple minutes later two blocks. Then...wait for it...there are three blocks! At this point I need some backup from the Count on Sesame Street.

I am not sure if the control range has less swing than the FJR, but before the gauge can move to 4 blocks, the fan comes on. It is probably a combination of a tighter control range and a gauge with less movement.

 

[dcarver]

Hmmm. So what's the correct burping procedure to ensure the block isn't circulating an air bubble?

 

[jcyuhn]

Edit: A quick google brings up the following confirmation that the ST13 does indeed have an ***** guage: https://www.st1300.us...read.php?t=1855

NO! The ST1300 does not have an ***** gauge. We may have to be idiots to ride the ugly *******, but the gauge has nothing to do with that!

The Temp "Gauge" on the ST1300 works just like the "Gauge" on a Gen2 FJR. It just has fewer bars or blocks or exclamation points or whatever you wish to call the indicator marks. On startup there are no blocks lit. After a couple of minutes it warms up and the "gauge" has one block. A couple minutes later two blocks. Then...wait for it...there are three blocks! At this point I need some backup from the Count on Sesame Street.

I am not sure if the control range has less swing than the FJR, but before the gauge can move to 4 blocks, the fan comes on. It is probably a combination of a tighter control range and a gauge with less movement.

Your description of the ST13 temp guage agrees with what I found during my quick little google expedition. Where we differ is in the semantic definition of what constitutes an ***** guage. I don't see much value in discussing that topic! Maybe we can save it for some day when things are a little slow in NEPRT.

 

[jcyuhn]

Hmmm. So what's the correct burping procedure to ensure the block isn't circulating an air bubble?

Funny you should ask. My FJR just received a coolant change along with a valve check (all good), brake flush, and some other work I've probably forgotten. Following the coolant refill I let it idle until the fans came on to insure there were no leaks, let it cool, topped it up, and buttoned it all up. I did run the engine at 3K RPMs for a bit after it had warmed up.

On my first ride yesterday the temp guage was behaving a bit funky. It would pop up to 5 bars when not expected - like riding along at 40MPH in 45F weather. Then drop to 3 bars at a stop light and take a mile to recover after riding away. After being annoyed by this for 5 miles, and given the engine didn't seem to be melting, I gave it the whip away from a stop. Ran it up to the better part of redline in first and second. That did the trick - it has been back to normal ever since. I'm guessing there was an air bubble in the coolant tube across the top of the engine - it has the temp sensor on the right hand side. And that a bit more encouragement from the water pump is all it needed to move that little bubble along.

BTW, this is the genII approved procedure, gens I & III may differ...

 

[RadioHowie]

Hmmm. So what's the correct burping procedure to ensure the block isn't circulating an air bubble?

Don,

SkooterG is gonna pipe in and say "I've ridden over 168 million miles on FJRs and NEVER used this...." but the easiest way to "burp" the system is to loosen the air-bleed screw on top of the thermostat when you're filling the system to let the air out. When coolant starts running out the screw with no bubbles, your FJR is burped...

Plus, someone else will offer their invaluable two cents to say "that's not higher than the radiator fill cap", but it is. Why the FSM doesn't mention it, I don't know, but that's what the bleed screw is for.

 

[supertankerm60a3]

THAT, Sir. Is the most useful post in the whole thread!!

As long as I am typing...

My gen one varies the same amount though the number of bars shown is, naturally, different. (hey the engine's the same)

Cruising, almost always 2, unless the ambient air is over 100 then can stay in the 3 for a long time.

In town mostly 3. Fan comes on at 4 bars.

Dropped to 1 bar once, going down the (very long) Shasta Mountain grade on I-5, in the cold, in a heavy rain. Jumped back to 2 once on level ground.

Has never hit 5.

Bikes just have a cooling systems that allows more temp fluctuations that a car.

 

[SkooterG]

Hmmm. So what's the correct burping procedure to ensure the block isn't circulating an air bubble?

Don,

SkooterG is gonna pipe in and say "I've ridden over 168 million miles on FJRs and NEVER used this...." but the easiest way to "burp" the system is to loosen the air-bleed screw on top of the thermostat when you're filling the system to let the air out. When coolant starts running out the screw with no bubbles, your FJR is burped...

BINGO!!!!

And more importantly nor will you find anywhere in any service manual any procedure for using that.

I've done coolant flushes too many times to count. The procedure I use while perhaps a slight PITA, has always worked: Fill to top. Run engine until fan comes on. Rev the engine just a little. Shut down and let cool. Refill both reservoir and top off at radiator cap. Repeat this procedure three times.

Performing that procedure I have never had any issues nor had to add coolant at any time later.

 

[odot]

Is that the equivalent of running around the house three times after filling her up then checking again? If so...I do that too...

 

[SkooterG]

Oh, and another thing. The FJR is a self-bleeding system. See that little 90 degree fitting with the barb that is right next to your air-bleed screw? Well what do you think that does? Yep. Bleeds the system of any air so that the you don't have to mess with opening it yourself.

 

[RadioHowie]

Hmmm. So what's the correct burping procedure to ensure the block isn't circulating an air bubble?

Don,

SkooterG is gonna pipe in and say "I've ridden over 168 million miles on FJRs and NEVER used this...." but the easiest way to "burp" the system is to loosen the air-bleed screw on top of the thermostat when you're filling the system to let the air out. When coolant starts running out the screw with no bubbles, your FJR is burped...

BINGO!!!!

And more importantly nor will you find anywhere in any service manual any procedure for using that.

I've done coolant flushes too many times to count. The procedure I use while perhaps a slight PITA, has always worked: Fill to top. Run engine until fan comes on. Rev the engine just a little. Shut down and let cool. Refill both reservoir and top off at radiator cap. Repeat this procedure three times.

Performing that procedure I have never had any issues nor had to add coolant at any time later.

I agree that nowhere in the FSM is it stated to loosen the airbleed screw to release air from the system. But just because it doesn't say to doesn't mean you shouldn't.

Besides, filling it once is MUCH less a PITA than your system.

Oh, and another thing. The FJR is a self-bleeding system. See that little 90 degree fitting with the barb that is right next to your air-bleed screw? Well what do you think that does? Yep. Bleeds the system of any air so that the you don't have to mess with opening it yourself.

This time, you're just plain mistaken...assuming your filling a cold motor. That little 90 degree fitting is on the radiator fill side of a cold, closed thermostat...the airbleed screw is on the motor side of the thermostat where air WILL get trapped as new coolant comes up from the motor.

C'mon, Skoot...how much "mess(ing) with opening it yourself" is there to simply loosening a 10mm bolt a couple of turns?

The airbleed "system" is part and parcel of millions of vehicles on the road today. It's there...why not use it?

 

[odot]

Iffn we was havin' a shittin' match both ya's would tie....

 

[SkooterG]

The airbleed "system" is part and parcel of millions of vehicles on the road today. It's there...why not use it?

Uhhhh..... because I've never had to? I don't remove or lift up the tank when I do a flush. Why would I start?

 

[RadioHowie]

The airbleed "system" is part and parcel of millions of vehicles on the road today. It's there...why not use it?

Uhhhh..... because I've never had to? I don't remove or lift up the tank when I do a flush. Why would I start?

True...too true! But I don't have to "Fill to top. Run engine until fan comes on. Rev the engine just a little. Shut down and let cool. Refill both reservoir and top off at radiator cap. Repeat this procedure three times."

Wanna bet my method is a LITTLE quicker than yours???

How many houses do you burn down to make toast???

 

[SkooterG]

The airbleed "system" is part and parcel of millions of vehicles on the road today. It's there...why not use it?

Uhhhh..... because I've never had to? I don't remove or lift up the tank when I do a flush. Why would I start?

True...too true! But I don't have to "Fill to top. Run engine until fan comes on. Rev the engine just a little. Shut down and let cool. Refill both reservoir and top off at radiator cap. Repeat this procedure three times."

Wanna bet my method is a LITTLE quicker than yours???

How many houses do you burn down to make toast???

Why did you marry the same woman TWICE and now ***** about it?

:finger:

 

[Constant Mesh]

RadioHowie --

The thermostat has a small breather hole up near the top which allows air bubbles to vent out to the radiator. Air bubbles should be vented automatically during a few minutes of operation.

Gen II coolant temps may rise more quickly simply because they have less coolant than the Gen I's.

Gen I -- 3.49 quarts

Gen II -- 2.75 quarts

27% more coolant

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Edit: A quick google brings up the following confirmation that the ST13 does indeed have an ***** guage: https://www.st1300.us...read.php?t=1855

NO! The ST1300 does not have an ***** gauge. We may have to be idiots to ride the ugly *******, but the gauge has nothing to do with that!

The Temp "Gauge" on the ST1300 works just like the "Gauge" on a Gen2 FJR. It just has fewer bars or blocks or exclamation points or whatever you wish to call the indicator marks. On startup there are no blocks lit. After a couple of minutes it warms up and the "gauge" has one block. A couple minutes later two blocks. Then...wait for it...there are three blocks! At this point I need some backup from the Count on Sesame Street.

I am not sure if the control range has less swing than the FJR, but before the gauge can move to 4 blocks, the fan comes on. It is probably a combination of a tighter control range and a gauge with less movement.

Your description of the ST13 temp guage agrees with what I found during my quick little google expedition. Where we differ is in the semantic definition of what constitutes an ***** guage. I don't see much value in discussing that topic! Maybe we can save it for some day when things are a little slow in NEPRT.

I don't disagree that this is not relevant to the opening post. Why not go back and re-read the thread you linked? Pay particular attention to posts #5 and #7. Then take a moment to reflect on how many people read something off the internet that is completely false but they believe it because "It was on the Internet! It must be true!"

We can all be quoted as experts if the right ***** reads what we type.

 

[SkooterG]

RadioHowie --

The thermostat has a small breather hole up near the top which allows air bubbles to vent out to the radiator. Air bubbles should be vented automatically during a few minutes of operation.

Gen II coolant temps may rise more quickly simply because they have less coolant than the Gen I's.

Gen I -- 3.49 quarts

Gen II -- 2.75 quarts

27% more coolant

Yo! RH! What the fart smeller said! :tease:

Interesting little tidbit about the coolant capacities. FWIW, my Gen II is slower to show the first 'bar' on the temp gauge than my Gen I from a cold start.