Oh FARK...Brake bleeds and ABS

[rayban]

Just get it out of the way...I farked up.

Saturday's ride had me deciding that it was time (9k mile) to bleed the OEM brake fluid out. Whipped out ye olde manual, then proceded to ignore the detail of the diagram of the front caliper.

Hooked up ye trusty vacuum hand pump to the front brake bleeder, apply vacuum, top off fluid in front, press lever, release bleeder with wrench (damn tight fit for a wrench to fit in and turn).

Lever never moved, yet I found fluid getting sucked into the vacuum container. WTF?

Tried it again....got more fluid.....THEN AIR.....

What the fark?

Oh no (re-examining caliper and noticing I was on the bottom bleeder and not the top), I just sucked the linked/ABS/rear unit dry........SHIIIIIIIT.

3/4 of a BIG Castrol Dot3/4 container later, my rears still aren't what they should be. There's still AIR somewhere in the ABS or in the front or back calipers. I've re-bled the front (all nice and clear now), then the rear and then the linked, and it's still not what it used to be. Driveable, but not taking it into any higher speed / techical riding, commuter 4 mile trip only. I'm not even STARTING on the clutch until I have the brakes back up to snuff.

What a farkin' pain the ***. Sooooooo stupid, totally my fault for being tired, hot and distracted when doing a job as critical as brakes.

This is my first ABS bike. Is there another bleeder or port somewhere I'm missing, or some special technique for getting this thing beat, or do I just need to keep on going? I really hate taking it to a dealer and being without for a couple weeks (San Diego shops are swamped).

 

[Thumperbike]

Gotta ask. Why replace the brake fluid at 9k miles?

 

[Barabus]

Just get it out of the way...I farked up.Saturday's ride had me deciding that it was time (9k mile) to bleed the OEM brake fluid out. Whipped out ye olde manual, then proceded to ignore the detail of the diagram of the front caliper.Hooked up ye trusty vacuum hand pump to the front brake bleeder, apply vacuum, top off fluid in front, press lever, release bleeder with wrench (damn tight fit for a wrench to fit in and turn).Lever never moved, yet I found fluid getting sucked into the vacuum container. WTF?Tried it again....got more fluid.....THEN AIR.....What the fark?Oh no (re-examining caliper and noticing I was on the bottom bleeder and not the top), I just sucked the linked/ABS/rear unit dry........SHIIIIIIIT.3/4 of a BIG Castrol Dot3/4 container later, my rears still aren't what they should be. There's still AIR somewhere in the ABS or in the front or back calipers. I've re-bled the front (all nice and clear now), then the rear and then the linked, and it's still not what it used to be. Driveable, but not taking it into any higher speed / techical riding, commuter 4 mile trip only. I'm not even STARTING on the clutch until I have the brakes back up to snuff.What a farkin' pain the ***. Sooooooo stupid, totally my fault for being tired, hot and distracted when doing a job as critical as brakes.This is my first ABS bike. Is there another bleeder or port somewhere I'm missing, or some special technique for getting this thing beat, or do I just need to keep on going? I really hate taking it to a dealer and being without for a couple weeks (San Diego shops are swamped).

I did the same thing at about the same mileage. Just keep bleeding or at least that is what I did. Don't take it too hard since we are not professional wrenches. Good luck!

Gotta ask. Why replace the brake fluid at 9k miles?

Becasue it turned black. Not as black as the front fork oil at the same mileage though!

 

[weekend rider]

You may want to try this if they are spongey. You bleed the longest brake line first than the next longest , then the next , get the picture. By the time you you reach the the shortestall the air should be out of he line. If not re-peat with the longest first . The air is hard to remove you get a little bubble in there it may take several times. Keep all brake fluid cylindres filled .

Patience, patienceand, more patience

 

[FJRay]

Bleeding from the bottom up prevents any air. Most drug stores can supply a large syringe. fill it with your favorite fluid (sounds like the old days) attach a clear hose and install on the fitting making sure there are no bubbles at that point. Remove the old fluid from the resivoir open the bleeder and gently force the new fluid in the system. Tighten the bleeder and move to the next one. Never have gotten any air this way and forcing air out the top is the the direction it wants to go anyway.

 

[Bike Effects]

Reduce some of the pain with these:

Speed Bleeders at Bike Effects

 

[mike25]

Anyone know how to cycle the ABS unit during bleeding????

 

[Bustanut joker]

Anyone know how to cycle the ABS unit during bleeding????

*** why Me?

Begins with S

ends with

H.

paging odot

:jester:

 

[Lake Powell]

Maybe some air migrated to the rear caliper line and is causing the problem.

That being said, I would imagine it would be very difficult bleeding the system with a hand bleeder, I went through nearly a quart of fluid using a power bleeder system when I replaced all the lines on my 07'.

And from what I can tell from the manual and the description of the system it appears it is not necessary to cycle the ABS to bleed them.

 

[Lake Powell]

.

 

[Lake Powell]

.

 

[angus]

Just get it out of the way...I farked up.Saturday's ride had me deciding that it was time (9k mile) to bleed the OEM brake fluid out. Whipped out ye olde manual, then proceded to ignore the detail of the diagram of the front caliper.Hooked up ye trusty vacuum hand pump to the front brake bleeder, apply vacuum, top off fluid in front, press lever, release bleeder with wrench (damn tight fit for a wrench to fit in and turn).Lever never moved, yet I found fluid getting sucked into the vacuum container. WTF?Tried it again....got more fluid.....THEN AIR.....What the fark?Oh no (re-examining caliper and noticing I was on the bottom bleeder and not the top), I just sucked the linked/ABS/rear unit dry........SHIIIIIIIT.3/4 of a BIG Castrol Dot3/4 container later, my rears still aren't what they should be. There's still AIR somewhere in the ABS or in the front or back calipers. I've re-bled the front (all nice and clear now), then the rear and then the linked, and it's still not what it used to be. Driveable, but not taking it into any higher speed / techical riding, commuter 4 mile trip only. I'm not even STARTING on the clutch until I have the brakes back up to snuff.What a farkin' pain the ***. Sooooooo stupid, totally my fault for being tired, hot and distracted when doing a job as critical as brakes.This is my first ABS bike. Is there another bleeder or port somewhere I'm missing, or some special technique for getting this thing beat, or do I just need to keep on going? I really hate taking it to a dealer and being without for a couple weeks (San Diego shops are swamped).

I did the same thing at about the same mileage. Just keep bleeding or at least that is what I did. Don't take it too hard since we are not professional wrenches. Good luck!

Gotta ask. Why replace the brake fluid at 9k miles?

Becasue it turned black. Not as black as the front fork oil at the same mileage though!