Oil Drain Plug Torque

[brazos parker]

I did a search on Drain Plug Torque and read the posts but did not see an actual torque value for the oil drain plug. The manual, IIRC, says 31 ft-lbs which seems to be the value for stripping the plug hole in the oil pan. I saw one post that said use "30% less than the manual states."

Since I am not an experienced "wrench," what is the torque value to use when tightening the oil drain plug? Or, do you just get it "snug?" Does "snug" sufficiently compress the oil drain plug washer?

 

[FJRottie]

You will get a few responses.

A good torque wrench tip is to do it in stages.

Set the wrench to about 75% of final torque value and do that first, then do final torque.

I don't like the 31 on the oil plug and use 22 ft/lbs. I do 15, then 22.

I don't think many use the 12 ft/lbs on the filter either. It can be a bitch to get off.

 

[twowheelnut]

Snug it tight and be done with it. Leave the torque wrench on the bench. (Sage advice from the skool of radman... 'WeRd.' )

 

[FlyingLow]

Just the fact that this guy, and others lately, are in here asking about this is a good thing. It means that more of us are taking the DIY approach, while willing to go through the learning curve. And this is as good a place as any for good and free advice.

 

[escapefjrtist]

My $.02

If you insist on using a torque wrench, you'll have better luck with a 3/8" drive inch-pound model at the lower settings. Stay away from the 2' long 1/2" drive or you're asking for trouble.... :blink:

--G

 

[mindtrip]

Think about it this way--I've changed the oil on my car since I was a kid, and never, not once, used a torque wrench to put the drain bolt back in. Make it tight, but remember--this bolt is NOT a 'structural' bolt, it's not holding the engine together. If you pay attention to your bike (I always make a point of just noticing the ground under the bike before I get on), the worst that will happen is that you'll start to drip some oil. Thus, not tight enough--snug it up a bit more. Don't focus so much on numbers--some torque specs are more important, the oil drain plug torque spec is not. IMHO, overtightening is worse than undertightening any day--unless it's so loose that the plug falls out on the first ride, but if that happens you probably shouldn't be touching your bike with a tool anyway.

 

[odot]

....and remember, there is no such thing as a dumb question...just dumb answers. i.e. any posts by me or mikeh or, for that matter, skooterg.

 

[twowheelnut]

....and remember, there is no such thing as a dumb question...just dumb answers. i.e. any posts by me or mikeh or, for that matter, skooterg.

Well, I take it back about you being a dumb, country hick - you really are an intelligent, astute observer of the obvious, aren't you?

 

[radman]

Well, I take it back about you being a dumb, country hick - you really are an intelligent, astute observer of the obvious, aren't you?

In the 15 seconds a week he isn't drunk, coming back, or on his way, he actually makes a lucid statement of fact. Who'da thunk?

 

[Mike-H]

....and remember, there is no such thing as a dumb question...just dumb answers. i.e. any posts by me or mikeh or, for that matter, skooterg.

TWN pay you money to exclude him from the group????

 

[smokeFJR06]

--unless it's so loose that the plug falls out on the first ride, but if that happens you probably shouldn't be touching your bike with a tool anyway.

Or, you bought a Harley and not an FJR!

 

[odot]

....and remember, there is no such thing as a dumb question...just dumb answers. i.e. any posts by me or mikeh or, for that matter, skooterg.

TWN pay you money to exclude him from the group????

I think I was drunk when I posted that. :lol:

 

[Fred H.]

I believe the torque specified on my Wing is 20 ft lbs, and that is about what I use on the FJR as well. I agree that the 31 ft lb spec is too high. I would think somewhere between 18-20 ft lbs would be more than sufficent to get a good seal on the crush washer.

Also, be advised that if you reuse a crush washer, you may increase the risk of stripping the threads, as the washer won't crush as much, so more of the force gets absorbed by the threads.

Think about it this way--I've changed the oil on my car since I was a kid, and never, not once, used a torque wrench to put the drain bolt back in. Make it tight, but remember--this bolt is NOT a 'structural' bolt, it's not holding the engine together. If you pay attention to your bike (I always make a point of just noticing the ground under the bike before I get on), the worst that will happen is that you'll start to drip some oil. Thus, not tight enough--snug it up a bit more. Don't focus so much on numbers--some torque specs are more important, the oil drain plug torque spec is not.

This is very good advice, and I agree. A torque wrench on an oil drain plug can many times cause more problems than it prevents. Good-N-tight works for me.

 

[DucatiSSsp]

What in the Hell did people use before torque wrenches! :angry2:

I use mine as a breaker-bar :blink:

Hope I don't get that anal when I get old <_<

Cheers,

Bryce

I believe the torque specified on my Wing is 20 ft lbs, and that is about what I use on the FJR as well. I agree that the 31 ft lb spec is too high. I would think somewhere between 18-20 ft lbs would be more than sufficent to get a good seal on the crush washer.
Also, be advised that if you reuse a crush washer, you may increase the risk of stripping the threads, as the washer won't crush as much, so more of the force gets absorbed by the threads.

Think about it this way--I've changed the oil on my car since I was a kid, and never, not once, used a torque wrench to put the drain bolt back in. Make it tight, but remember--this bolt is NOT a 'structural' bolt, it's not holding the engine together. If you pay attention to your bike (I always make a point of just noticing the ground under the bike before I get on), the worst that will happen is that you'll start to drip some oil. Thus, not tight enough--snug it up a bit more. Don't focus so much on numbers--some torque specs are more important, the oil drain plug torque spec is not.

This is very good advice, and I agree. A torque wrench on an oil drain plug can many times cause more problems than it prevents. Good-N-tight works for me.

+1

Or it's "Gute n' tite" if you own a BMW

Bryce

 

[brazos parker]

What in the Hell did people use before computers & forums!

I use mine as a source of information.

Hope I wasn't that anal when I was young!

Cheers,

Mike

 

[DucatiSSsp]

:blink:

Cheers,

Bryce

 

[odot]

Hm....well, that was kind of cryptic......

 

[twowheelnut]

...cryptic......

Wassat, a handicapped doflicky?

 

[faster675]

jeez, you know how long I had to search for this post ?

(so that I could be sure to remember the CORRECT torque for the drain plug)

somebody needs to take the 31 ft lb spec out of the FAQ !

Now !

I simply can not believe that the F'd up spec is still in there !!!!!

rant off ...