Oil filter superseded?

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beerme

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Anyone know why Yamaha decided we need to use the same filter as a FZ6 (part #5GH-13440-50), rather than the old 5JW-13440-00? I ordered some parts from BikeBandit.com a while back, including the 5JW filter. Today I was gonna change the oil, and noticed that the new 5GH filter in the box was just a short stubby little thing, but apparently the same diameter.

I called BikeBandit and they said that the 5JW has been superseded by the 5GH. Local dealer confirmed it with the same info. I haven't tried to install it yet, as it doesn't seem long enough to keep a filter wrench on to tighten it to torque value, without adjacent block & body parts getting in the way.

But, maybe i'm overthinking it.

 
I thought filter wrenches were for removing stuck or tight filters. I've never had to tighten one more than a good "handful"

Correct me if I'm wrong about that.

 
Asking for trouble using a wrench to tighten, never more than hand tight.

Plenty of other good non-OEM filters that will do the job.

 
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All well & good unless one has the hand strength of an arthritic, prepubescent little girl. I only use a wrench to snug it up a bit, not tighten it til it won't turn any more. Fact is, the stubby filter might not even allow enough room to hand-tighten it. I dunno, haven't tried it... just doesn't look right.

 
I noticed this a few months ago, initially thinking the dealer screwed up. I kinda like it since it fits past my forward highway peg brackets better.

 
Woops, sorry !

How about a oil filter cup wrench that goes over the end, just have to buy one with the correct diameter & number of flutes.

 
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use a 3323 Bosch, most places stock them , little longer than the stock unit & you DO NOT have to screw with the

MCL or Garauld highway brackets when changing filter if one uses a large channel-lock to remove filter & give it a hand tight job going on.

 
My 2007 Honda pick-up uses the same size filter. Fram, bosch, purelator champion etc. and more make filters that will work just fine.

 
Oil filter only needs to go about a quarter turn, maybe half a turn, after you feel the gasket touch. And oil the gasket before installing with some of the old oil in your pan. There's no "torqueing down" needed.

As for the part number change, this came up some time back, and my speculation was that it was just a warehouse/supplier simplification for MamaYama and the factory. I'd been using the WalMart piece until that disappeared last year, which I think was a shorty, and the Purolator I use now is a shorty.

That last sentence of your post starting the thread pretty much sums it up.
smile.png


 
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Dude, goto the Bin-O-Facts and look for the applicable oil filters. Than goto your favorite auto-parts store or Walmart and buy one of the listed filters. You'll be good.

 
For any spin-on oil filter that you might use, make sure it has an anti-drainback valve built in. WIX filters do have this feature, and other decent filters.will have it as well. The cheap filters won't have it, so those oil filters would be empty, each time you start the engine. The engine gets no oil until the oil filter has been filled with oil. With the anti-drainback valve in the oil filter, the oil filter stays full, and the engine can be getting oil even before the engine fires.

I like to stick a strong magnet (neodymium) on the bottom of the oil filter, to collect any stray steel particles there. Do not remove the magnet from the filter until the filter is removed from the bike, of course.

Cheers,

Infrared

 
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