OIL filters (off-brand)

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Haar

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Just wondered if anyone has used a Fram aftermarket #PH7317 ('06AE) I have been and no problems. Now I went to NAPA and got a NAPA Gold #1356 which is their replacement for the FRAM PH7317. However, the fishe indicated that NAPA refers to another # for the FJR. I just went with their indicated replacement for the FRAM and it's leaking at the filter seal. Any experience with this out there?

 
My Honda Ridgeline truck and the FJR take the same oil filter. I used to use the NAPA Gold 1356 in the truck, but switched to Mobile M-110. Go get yourself one of those. The Mobile Oil filters are the same as K&N but cheaper. The NAPA is a good oil filter however, as it's made by Wix. Your engine is probably thanking you for getting rid of the Fram! :)

 
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Just wondered if anyone has used a Fram aftermarket #PH7317 ('06AE) I have been and no problems. Now I went to NAPA and got a NAPA Gold #1356 which is their replacement for the FRAM PH7317. However, the fishe indicated that NAPA refers to another # for the FJR. I just went with their indicated replacement for the FRAM and it's leaking at the filter seal. Any experience with this out there?

Well, just answered my own query. Looked at the NAPA filter. . .the inside perforated plate is flat and the FRAM filter is concave. This curvature in the FRAM allows the filter's seal to mate to the base of motor fixture and the NAPA filter doesn't allow for the threads to get on far enough to allow a tight fit. Jeeezus, just stick to what works, Haar.

 
Napa Gold 1356 is made by Wix, and their number for it is 51356. It will screw on, but won't seal because (as you noticed) the shape of the bottom of the filter housing is different from the OEM.

Napa is now selling a filter called an 'Ultra 8', made in China for Nippon filters. It has the correct base to seal properly, and appears to be well made. A few bucks cheaper than the Gold.

The Fram PH7317 will work fine (ie, it will screw on and seal), although a lot of folks are less than impressed with the construction of the Fram's orange can filters. The Fram Tough Guard (TG7317) in the silver can is a MUCH better filter for not a lot more money, and if you change filters every oil change is probably just as good as OEM.

As mentioned previously, there is a good run-down of some of the aftermarket filter options on the fjr1300info.com site.

Up here in Canuckistan, the OEM filters are over $15 apiece from the dealer, and many of the aftermarket filters that our American brethren can use (Mobil-1, Purolator Pure One, etc) just aren't available in a lot of places. I tend to buy OEM filters by the case from a dealer in the States and ship them up here, which still makes them about half the cost of the dealer prices in Canada.

Griff

 
I thought there was a bunch of research that showed Fram filters were crap.

I've been using these Purolator filters for years with no problems, these are not expensive usually (but especially when Amazon has them on sale) and are supposed to be very good. During their sales, I've bought these for like $3 each or something.



 
You guys think too much, try too hard, and spend your money foolishly.

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There's nothing special about the OEM filter. It's comparable to the better filters out on the market. Oil pressures between the FJR and auto engines are in comparable levels. Your choice of oil and filter has no impact on warranty coverage, unless it can be obviously demonstrated that the filter had a direct impact on the problem you are seeking warranty repairs for. Such as the filter not seating against the gasket and spewing oil, then you trying to get a new motor.

If you're more comfortable using OEM filters, do so. IMHO, better filters exist for less money, but that's just my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it. Zip.

 
Well, to chime in with my $0.02 worth (or my version of the $10 "Saving" experiment")... (09 BTW)

Picked up a (theoretically equivalent to) FRAM 7317.

I felt the threads bottoming before ever feeling the gasket "land". YUP - it leaked - super slow - but still unacceptable!

Went to Yammy Mammy today and poured out a bloody $20CAD for the OEM unit to fix it. Yes, it's fixed!

Looking at the two side-by-side - there is absolutely no comparison on the depth of the "concave bowl" from gasket to thread base!!! WTF?? Equivalent?? It was at LEAST 1/4" shallower on the "FRAM".

Experiment failed miserably!! Will I experiment with others? Dunno at this point - $10 IS $10 - RIGHT?!?!

Scott

 
Just did my first oil change, I think I put way to much time into it

Yamalube could not find

I read that alot of people are using Shell Rotella ( fine print and alot of web time ) works fine

Filters Mobil 1 M1-110 cost the same as Yamaha filter and does not leak,

Bosch should not leak, then you have Yamaha

 
Well, to chime in with my $0.02 worth (or my version of the $10 "Saving" experiment")... (09 BTW)
Picked up a (theoretically equivalent to) FRAM 7317.

I felt the threads bottoming before ever feeling the gasket "land". YUP - it leaked - super slow - but still unacceptable!

Went to Yammy Mammy today and poured out a bloody $20CAD for the OEM unit to fix it. Yes, it's fixed!

Looking at the two side-by-side - there is absolutely no comparison on the depth of the "concave bowl" from gasket to thread base!!! WTF?? Equivalent?? It was at LEAST 1/4" shallower on the "FRAM".

Experiment failed miserably!! Will I experiment with others? Dunno at this point - $10 IS $10 - RIGHT?!?!

Scott
What's to try, go with the Purolator PL14612 PureONE Oil Filter, you'll never have a problem, and it's a great filter at a great price.

Purolator PureONE Oil Filter - Amazon.com

 
Napa Gold 1356 is made by Wix, and their number for it is 51356. It will screw on, but won't seal because (as you noticed) the shape of the bottom of the filter housing is different from the OEM.
I haven't tried this yet 'cause I'm still bike shopping, but I have been doing a lot of reading. I've read of folks having trouble with the 51356 Wix filters, but wonder why I haven't seen reference to the 57356 that Wix lists as the proper filter.

There's got to be a difference in the filters, it's obvious when you look at the different brands in the fitment chart. Could be that the 57356, being the recommended filter has the correct back spacing for the FJR where the 51356 which has the same thread pitch and depth, doesn't. Has anyone tried the 57356?

 
buy a can of high temp black spray paint if you don't like yellow

you can also go with the big bang for a buck SuperTech 7317 from WalMart for about $2.50...it's made by champion and is a perfectly good filter

while ya there, pick up a gallon and a quart of Shell Rotella synthetic in the dark blue containers...$20 for the gallon

course after 114k miles on my '04 and the loss of my balls...well, you know...

edit -> oops -> correct filter is 7317

 
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buy a can of high temp black spray paint if you don't like yellow
you can also go with the big bang for a buck SuperTech 7217 from WalMart for about $2.50...it's made by champion and is a perfectly good filter

while ya there, pick up a gallon and a quart of Shell Rotella synthetic in the dark blue containers...$20 for the gallon

course after 114k miles on my '04 and the loss of my balls...well, you know...

You just dirtied this thread with the mere mention of Rotella? :dribble:

 
buy a can of high temp black spray paint if you don't like yellow
you can also go with the big bang for a buck SuperTech 7217 from WalMart for about $2.50...it's made by champion and is a perfectly good filter

while ya there, pick up a gallon and a quart of Shell Rotella synthetic in the dark blue containers...$20 for the gallon

course after 114k miles on my '04 and the loss of my balls...well, you know...

You just dirtied this thread with the mere mention of Rotella? :dribble:
Oh No...you di-int go there! SNAP!

 
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