Oil Pressure Problem

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It's not a pressure light. It's an oil level indicator light. If the oil is okay after having checked it a few times AND others have had this happen, I'd say it's worth keeping the money in my pocket. Free country and all, you spend yours how you wish! :)
You tell him girl!

He's an odd ****. Likes to drop other peeps' FJRs too! :angry2:
Haha...Whether any of you want to admit it or not, if the oil LEVEL light is coming on with a full crank, something is wrong. One of these days, a malfunctioning one will come on when there is a real issue and the owner, used to ignoring it will again ignore it. After his/her motor seizes, he/she will come here crying about how unlucky they are.

Honestly though, she's right. Its her bike and her money. I don't give a **** what she does or doesn't do to it. Just know there's another person I wouldn't buy a used bike from.

 
Never had it happen except after an oil change and I do fill the filter a bit and let it soak in as I watch oil drain.

I fill mine on the center stand to the very top of the site glass. I leave just enough room so if I shake the bike on the center stand I can see a little day light. Dealers are notorious for just 4 quarts and somehow forget about the .26 of a quart Yamaha says it takes to fill with filter change. And I don't think they pre fill the filter either. They are pouring out of a container they filled from a bulk 55 gallon drum, not pouring quarts as you and I do.

I am also very Leary of people on the Internet saying just ride it. You need to resolve idiot lite problems one way or another, and just riding it is not fixing it.

Your bike, your choice.

 
I've never had this happen before, but here's a thought:

If people are experiencing the low oil level light coming on, but only with a cold engine, what oil viscosity are you using and at what ambient temperature is this happening?

Why do I ask? Well, if the oil level in the sump is low with a cold engine, it may mean that the oil is being picked up and pumped fine, but is too thick when cold to allow it to drain back to the sump fast enough. If this is what's happening, then I'm inclined to side with HRZ that this isn't necessarily something to be blatantly ignored. If the sump is actually going dry the oil pump will start to pickup air, which when it hits the oil pump will cause pressure drop.

The solution might be just to choose an oil with a lower cold weather rating (the first number in the multiviscosity weight descriptions) for those times of the year that the ambient temps are lower. So, as an example, if you have been running Rotella T 15W40 and experiencing this phenomenon, you might want to try using the Rotella T synthetic 5W40 during the cold months. Both oils are the equivalent of a 40 weight oil at operating temperature (12.5 - 16.5 cSt) , but the standard stuff is like a 15 weight oil when cold, and the synthetic is equivalent to a 5 weight, so will flow much better.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've never had this happen before, but here's a thought:

If people are experiencing the low oil level light coming on, but only with a cold engine, what oil viscosity are you using and at what ambient temperature is this happening?

Why do I ask? Well, if the oil level in the sump is low with a cold engine, it may mean that the oil is being picked up and pumped fine, but is too thick when cold to allow it to drain back to the sump fast enough. If this is what's happening, then I'm inclined to side with HRZ that this isn't necessarily something to be blatantly ignored. If the sump is actually going dry the oil pump will start to pickup air, which when it hits the oil pump will cause pressure drop.

The solution might be just to choose an oil with a lower cold weather rating (the first number in the multiviscosity weight descriptions) for those times of the year that the ambient temps are lower. So, as an example, if you have been running Rotella T 15W40 and experiencing this phenomenon, you might want to try using the Rotella T synthetic 5W40 during the cold months. Both oils are the equivalent of a 40 weight oil at operating temperature (12.5 - 16.5 cSt) , but the standard stuff is like a 15 weight oil when cold, and the synthetic is equivalent to a 5 weight, so will flow much better.
Great point.

Here in PA I run 20-50 in Summer and 10-40 in Winter. I could see where 20W would be bad in 25 or 30 degree weather on start up and is why I run a thinner oil in Winter.

 
Great point.

Here in PA I run 20-50 in Summer and 10-40 in Winter. I could see where 20W would be bad in 25 or 30 degree weather on start up and is why I run a thinner oil in Winter.
As you should.

Just be aware that there is also a difference in viscosity at operating temperature (as well as when cold) between the 10W40 and the 20W50 oils.

But it's (probably) fine to run a 50 weight oil in the FJR engines. In fact, sometime after Mama Yama changed who they bought and rebranded their oil from a few years back, somewhat curiously they also changed the oil they specified for the FJR from only using 20W40 Yamalube 4 oil (with no substitutes specified for varying weather) to recommending 20W50. Yamalube 4 brand oil. On essentially the identically same engine. :eek:

And only then do they show a temperature range chart that says 20W50 is good for ambient temps of from 50 to 120 degrees F (10 - 45 C). I guess we aren't supposed to ride our bikes below 50 degrees F? :p

 
I've never had this happen before, but here's a thought:

If people are experiencing the low oil level light coming on, but only with a cold engine, what oil viscosity are you using and at what ambient temperature is this happening?

Why do I ask? Well, if the oil level in the sump is low with a cold engine, it may mean that the oil is being picked up and pumped fine, but is too thick when cold to allow it to drain back to the sump fast enough. If this is what's happening, then I'm inclined to side with HRZ that this isn't necessarily something to be blatantly ignored. If the sump is actually going dry the oil pump will start to pickup air, which when it hits the oil pump will cause pressure drop.

The solution might be just to choose an oil with a lower cold weather rating (the first number in the multiviscosity weight descriptions) for those times of the year that the ambient temps are lower. So, as an example, if you have been running Rotella T 15W40 and experiencing this phenomenon, you might want to try using the Rotella T synthetic 5W40 during the cold months. Both oils are the equivalent of a 40 weight oil at operating temperature (12.5 - 16.5 cSt) , but the standard stuff is like a 15 weight oil when cold, and the synthetic is equivalent to a 5 weight, so will flow much better.
Interesting... Do you know where in the system the oil level is measured? Trying to think if that possiblity makes sense. If I think about it, I think there were 3 instances. One morning was around 30, maybe even upper 20's, and I had a passenger, I can't imagine that would matter, but possible. The recent instance, was chilly, though I wouldn't say cold - maybe 40 or 45. I honestly don't remember the first instance.

BTW, I DID ask a dealer. Didn't seem impressed. Told me if it stays on longer or happens more frequently to make an appointment. I still wanted to know what was causing it. I've been around bikes for a little while. Rode BMWs for a long while. I found that 99% of the time, there was better information on the internet than in the repair shop. Of course there's a fair bit of garbage as well, you just have to put your common sense hat on and do your best. Hmmmm.... sounds kind of like dealing with a repair shop.

Skoot would tell me if I need to be worried. Maybe you think it foolish, but I kinda trust the guy. Don't give a **** if some guy on the internet doesn't want to buy my bike. I tend to ride them until the wheels fall off. Sometimes sorta literally. ;)

 
I wouldn't give it another thought.Like I said before, mine has done it on and off for almost 10 years.

I kinda miss the days of a dip stick or just look in the oil tank to see if it was pumping and had enough. If it wasn't leaking it meant you were out of oil.

No fuel guage, just open the tank and slosh it around and figure how far you could go. Life used to be simple . :)

 
I wouldn't give it another thought.Like I said before, mine has done it on and off for almost 10 years.

I kinda miss the days of a dip stick or just look in the oil tank to see if it was pumping and had enough. If it wasn't leaking it meant you were out of oil.

No fuel guage, just open the tank and slosh it around and figure how far you could go. Life used to be simple . :)
Like with a Harley, eh Ray?
 
Top