OK, now wiring the Audiovox

[double_entendre]

I'm still following the directions at FJRInfo and looking at the manual as well. According to page 3 the manual:

Brown - Switched power

Grey - VSS (Not used on the FJR).

Red - Brake

Purple - Brake

Yellow - Resume (connect to switch control pad)

Green - Set (connect to switch control pad)

Black - Ground

Blue - Tach (Coil or ECU on the FJR)

In the troubleshooting section of the manual (page 13), though, it says that the red wire should always have 12 volt power. Hooking it up to the brake light does not accomplish that. Color me confused.

The grey wire is bundled with a black wire and then there's a second black wire coming out of the ten-pin connector. I assume that I can just cut the grey and black bundled-together wires and ground only the one black wire as the grey is unused.

Thanks again to everyone for the help. I'm fumbling my way through this, but want to do it once. Got a road trip coming up and want to have plenty of time to test this out.

Rancho

 

[Jeff Q]

I forgot to hook up the black wire from the control pad, I assumed tht since the black and grey wires from the servo werent used neither were they from the control pad... NOT so. Contol pad has a seperate wiring drawing in it's manual. Jusy a thought...

 

[NSrider]

I followed the instructions posted here by UP. Everything works great.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...c=114094&hl=

 

[double_entendre]

I followed the instructions posted here by UP. Everything works great.https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...c=114094&hl=

Interesting. I'd never have thought of jamming that servo in there. I have it under the left side cover right now--right side cover has a Blue Seas fuse block under it and I want to keep the tool tray for tools. I had to take off the little intake snorkle to make it fit, but I don't see there being any issues there.

Rancho

 

[ionbeam]

...Interesting. I'd never have thought of jamming that servo in there...

Won't fit there on your Gen I anyway.

 

[Leskid]

...Interesting. I'd never have thought of jamming that servo in there...

Won't fit there on your Gen I anyway.

only spot I could fit the servo / vacuum boost tank on my gen1 was under the right side cover. Fits-in and attaches-up nicely, while providing a nice smooth path for the servos' throttle cable to go forward.

 

[bramfrank]

Red is power, Purple is brake.

You will have two power leads and two grounds - note that most people (me included) run the gray wire along with the power so the backlighting is on with the ignition.

I didn't take any chances with the brake input - I got a small 12 volt relay and wired the coil across the brake light and used the common and normally closed contact to connect the purple wire to ground - works like a champ.

I removed the shielded gray wire (that's the one you called the bundled black) from the connector altogether - neater than cutting and no loose cabling.

Note that the blue wire is MUCH longer than you'll ever need. But there is a resistor at the end of that wire, so make sure you splice it back in near the servo. I connected mine at the ECU end of the orange wire in the harness bundle - made things very neat.

I took my power and ground from my fuse block and did not use the fuse that came with the control pad harness. Mine is fused to 5 amps on it's own circuit under the seat.

 

[Leskid]

In the troubleshooting section of the manual (page 13), though, it says that the red wire should always have 12 volt power. Hooking it up to the brake light does not accomplish that. Color me confused.Rancho

bonjour Rancho

being a veteran of 1 (successful) avcc install this past weekend, allow me to comment on your source of confusion.

There are 2 wires that go from the vacuum servo to the tail light wiring harness.

1) The purple one taps into the BRAKE light (to fill the cruise if the brake light comes on)

2) The red wire (switched 12V) ties into the rear RUNNING light so while your key is switched-on, the servo unit can draw current.

hope this helps

 

[wfooshee]

In the troubleshooting section of the manual (page 13), though, it says that the red wire should always have 12 volt power. Hooking it up to the brake light does not accomplish that. Color me confused.Rancho

bonjour Rancho

being a veteran of 1 (successful) avcc install this past weekend, allow me to comment on your source of confusion.

There are 2 wires that go from the vacuum servo to the tail light wiring harness.

1) The purple one taps into the BRAKE light (to fill the cruise if the brake light comes on)

2) The red wire (switched 12V) ties into the rear RUNNING light so while your key is switched-on, the servo unit can draw current.

hope this helps

The red wire should tie to the other side of the brake light switch, not the running lights. What does it matter if they're both 12 volts? Well, on the off chance that the brake light circuit loses power, the cruise won't set, a safety feature since it must disengage when the brakes are tapped. If the brake circuit is dead for some reason it will never know. Picking up 12 volts from the brake light switch and not the running lights is the only way it can monitor that.

Since you have lied to your control unit, were you to encounter a brake light circuit failure, your cruise would not disengage on application of the brakes, because the brake light would not illuminate. Runing lights and brake lights are on separate circuits from different fuses, so the scenario would be very plausible.

 

[double_entendre]

The red wire should tie to the other side of the brake light switch, not the running lights. What does it matter if they're both 12 volts? Well, on the off chance that the brake light circuit loses power, the cruise won't set, a safety feature since it must disengage when the brakes are tapped. If the brake circuit is dead for some reason it will never know. Picking up 12 volts from the brake light switch and not the running lights is the only way it can monitor that.
Since you have lied to your control unit, were you to encounter a brake light circuit failure, your cruise would not disengage on application of the brakes, because the brake light would not illuminate. Runing lights and brake lights are on separate circuits from different fuses, so the scenario would be very plausible.

Bramfrank & Leskid, thanks for the input. I appreciate it.

Wfooshee:

I'm not sure what you mean about "other side" of the brake light. (FJR wiring diagram linky.) My read of the wiring diagram says that the brake light switches just provide power to the brake lights when used and the ground for the brake lights is somewhere back at the back of the bike. Did you tap in on the "switch side" and "ground side" of the brake light?

"Brake light circuit failure." Meaning that for whatever reason the brake lights don't work? I figure there's really only three reasonably likely reasons for a circuit failure: 1) the bulbs go bad; 2) the brake light switches go bad; 3) short circuit.

If the brake light switches fail, won't the cruise control fail to disengage because there's no way for the AVCC computer to know they've failed?

If the bulbs fail I'm not sure what happens. I'd think that the power that was en route to the brake lights also goes to the AVCC because we've tapped into the brake light and it has its own ground to know that the brakes have been applied.

Thanks!

Rancho

 

[wfooshee]

The red wire should tie to the other side of the brake light switch, not the running lights. What does it matter if they're both 12 volts? Well, on the off chance that the brake light circuit loses power, the cruise won't set, a safety feature since it must disengage when the brakes are tapped. If the brake circuit is dead for some reason it will never know. Picking up 12 volts from the brake light switch and not the running lights is the only way it can monitor that.
Since you have lied to your control unit, were you to encounter a brake light circuit failure, your cruise would not disengage on application of the brakes, because the brake light would not illuminate. Runing lights and brake lights are on separate circuits from different fuses, so the scenario would be very plausible.

Bramfrank & Leskid, thanks for the input. I appreciate it.

Wfooshee:

I'm not sure what you mean about "other side" of the brake light. (FJR wiring diagram linky.) My read of the wiring diagram says that the brake light switches just provide power to the brake lights when used and the ground for the brake lights is somewhere back at the back of the bike. Did you tap in on the "switch side" and "ground side" of the brake light?

"Brake light circuit failure." Meaning that for whatever reason the brake lights don't work? I figure there's really only three reasonably likely reasons for a circuit failure: 1) the bulbs go bad; 2) the brake light switches go bad; 3) short circuit.

If the brake light switches fail, won't the cruise control fail to disengage because there's no way for the AVCC computer to know they've failed?

If the bulbs fail I'm not sure what happens. I'd think that the power that was en route to the brake lights also goes to the AVCC because we've tapped into the brake light and it has its own ground to know that the brakes have been applied.

Thanks!

Rancho

You tap the red wire onto the side of the brake light switch that is always hot, the brown wire. That provides 12 volts to the control unit, and tells it that the brake light circuit is hot.

You tape the purple wire onto the side of the brake light switch that's hot only when the brakes are on. It will ground through the bulbs when the brakes are not on. That wire tells the control unit the status of the brake light.

The 12 volts on the brown wire comes from a different source than the 12 volts on the running lights' blue wire, so there are any number of situations in which the running light will work and the brake lights won't. If your 12 volts comes from the running lights and the brake light circuit dies (blown fuse, for example) then the cruise will not disengage when you hit the brakes.

I cannot overemphasize how dangerous it is to get that 12 volts from any old 12 volt source. It's not just a power source for the control unit, it's the only way it has of knowing the brake light actually works.

That said, the controller does have a safety logic built in so that if it can't maintain speed it will disengage assuming a mechanical problem, so it will disengage if you use enough brake to overpower the still-applied throttle, and the control usit's logic kicks in and disengages, but it willl not disengage instantly, and you'll be further down the road at a higher speed than you intended by the time it does disengage.

Addressing the questions:

If both brake light switches fail, then the unit has no way of knowing the brakes are applied, correct. Unlikely in the extreme. [spock voice]Odds are three hundred ninety seven million, 934 thousand, 368 point 953 against.[/spock voice]

If the bulbs fail the unit will not engage. It will not have zero volts on the purple wire. Similarly, it will not engage if the red wire does not have 12 volts, as if the fuse were blown.

 

[Leskid]

double_entendre: not sure how much you read-up in the forum archives on the subject but Walter's the man out here on this subject. I qualified my remark by saying I only have the one install under my belt so don't take my opinion beyond the grain of salt it deserves.

I'm thinkin' I'm gonna open the hood again and make sure I got mine like he's sayin'

thanks again wfooshee!

 

[double_entendre]

You tap the red wire onto the side of the brake light switch that is always hot, the brown wire. That provides 12 volts to the control unit, and tells it that the brake light circuit is hot.
You tape the purple wire onto the side of the brake light switch that's hot only when the brakes are on. It will ground through the bulbs when the brakes are not on. That wire tells the control unit the status of the brake light.

The 12 volts on the brown wire comes from a different source than the 12 volts on the running lights' blue wire, so there are any number of situations in which the running light will work and the brake lights won't. If your 12 volts comes from the running lights and the brake light circuit dies (blown fuse, for example) then the cruise will not disengage when you hit the brakes.

I cannot overemphasize how dangerous it is to get that 12 volts from any old 12 volt source. It's not just a power source for the control unit, it's the only way it has of knowing the brake light actually works.

That said, the controller does have a safety logic built in so that if it can't maintain speed it will disengage assuming a mechanical problem, so it will disengage if you use enough brake to overpower the still-applied throttle, and the control usit's logic kicks in and disengages, but it willl not disengage instantly, and you'll be further down the road at a higher speed than you intended by the time it does disengage.

Addressing the questions:

If both brake light switches fail, then the unit has no way of knowing the brakes are applied, correct. Unlikely in the extreme. [spock voice]Odds are three hundred ninety seven million, 934 thousand, 368 point 953 against.[/spock voice]

If the bulbs fail the unit will not engage. It will not have zero volts on the purple wire. Similarly, it will not engage if the red wire does not have 12 volts, as if the fuse were blown.

Outstanding Spock! Errr...wfooshee. :lol:

Went to the garage after work with my multimeter and checked the wires. Brown is hot when the ignition is on and yellow hot only when the brake light is on. So I'll tap into the wire tha comes off of the rear brake pedal--it's hot regardless of whether you hit the front or rear brake and convenienly runs under one of the crossbars under the saddle..

Thanks a ton for the explanation and clarification. Should be a slam dunk now. :yahoo:

Leskid, what'd you find on your install?

Rancho

 

[Leskid]

Leskid, what'd you find on your install?
Rancho

nuttin yet. I washed it after supper and instead of checking the wiring, I took it for a little spin. Ended up riding 400+ kms. And it's covered in bugs again, to boot

 

[wfooshee]

Leskid, what'd you find on your install?
Rancho

nuttin yet. I washed it after supper and instead of checking the wiring, I took it for a little spin. Ended up riding 400+ kms. And it's covered in bugs again, to boot

But they appreciate a clean final resting place, I'm sure.

 

[double_entendre]

Hey guys!

Just wanted to say thanks again for all the help on the Audiovox install. It wasn't the cleanest, most sanitary install in the history of Man (or even FJR), but I just got back from a 4,200 mile road trip and it was a wrist-saver. I had no idea it would make as much of an impact as it did.

THANK YOU!!!!!!! VIVA FJRFORUM!!!!

:clapping: :yahoo: :clapping: :yahoo: :clapping:

Rancho