I reluctantly say anything in this thread -- likely to get blasted by someone for having scraped my pegs more than once. If you want to read about it, go back to the two books Del (painman) cited to get better advice than you'll get here, despite some very good observations that have been made in this thread.
The more you get your weight inside of the turn (off the bike), the less lean angle the bike will need to make the same turn. That means more contact patch is being used for the same amount of turn, and more contact patch = more margin of error. Another fact is that the FJR has pretty low pegs compared to many other bikes, certainly compared to sport bikes, so it isn't all that hard to scrape pegs. Also, as illustrated in a pic above, there isn't a lot of room past the peg scrapers before an OEM muffler touches down and that's NOT good. In a very related vein, the OEM suspension may not be a good match for your riding style or weight. Well set up aftermarket suspension is going to make it a lot safer and more predictable.
The greatest truism is probably that if you go into a corner with the right speed for what you are comfortable with in terms of making your bike turn, then you have this whole thing dialed. Probably the source of the most errors is too high an entry speed, or grabbing a handful of brake once in, standing it up and taking the bike outside into traffic or off road. Obviously, the big variable requiring a margin of error is unknown road hazards, unfamiliar roads and other roadway users.
To me, there are two types of peg scraping situations. The one I fear is the one where I come into a corner too hot for the bike's load and the radius of the turn (esp. if it's decreasing) and compress the suspension too much as I push the bar lower to make the radius and stay inside the double yellow (and I feel the peg scraper unexpectedly touch down hard). That is where I've made a mistake, and that is where I fervently hope I don't touch anything but the scraper down. The other situation is much more controlled. I've actually ridden a section of roadway with tight but rhythmic turns where I went from peg scraper to peg scraper 4 or 5 quick turns in a row, toes on the pegs, feeling like I was controlling exactly how much pressure my foot was exerting on the peg scraper as it gently rode over the pavement. Very much like the kind of finesse you feel in carving a ski. (For me, it works to know where the margins are and what it feels like to approach them in a controlled fashion.) Again, the FJR pegs are pretty low, and I guarantee that despite shifting my weight setting up for each turn, it didn't look anything like Hayden and Rossi with knees down in MotoGP.
Which gets to peg weighting, as well noted by chornbe, above. Read the books painman recommended for a better explanation of weighting the inside peg to help control your bike's turn-in. To add to what chornbe said about peg weighting being a source of much debate (and an area for additional learning): on sweepers, I do sometimes weight the outside peg. With my body weight inside, I may initiate the turn weighting the inside peg and THEN shift the peg weight (my body still on the inside) to the outside peg while I hold the inside bar end down, countersteering. If you get used to peg weighting as discussed in the books and then try this, you may find that on high speed sweepers (not tight twisties or peg scraping, at least not for me), the combination of weighted outside peg and countersteering (which is what is holding your line) will make the bike feel like it is on rails. This has been known to put a real grin on my face marveling at this big heavy bike and how well it will do what it does.
Anyway, for those so inclined: fire away -- I probably ride too fast on occasion, but . . . One should never exceed the speed limit or do anything that exceeds the safe operating conditions of the VW bug with whom you share the road.
