BwanaDik
Well-known member
That was exactly what I was looking for, thanks.
Do you have a link?
Do you have a link?
okay, tell me what I have going on here
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FastJoyRide
Well-known member
Tim's is a Canadian icon - the Tim Horton Donut and coffee chain of stores! They sell 40% of all the coffee that's not brewed in the home in Canada - now that's market share!
When looking at the pads yesterday, there didn't seem to be any clearance at all. When I grabbed the lever, no visible movement.
As for which EBC pads I have? No idea...I just trusted the guy at the parts counter to order the correct ones. DOH!
I'll see if I can give the wheel a spin in the parking lot this morning. Great idea...
I am learning lots, this is cool!
Oh, and SnowAviation? What FastJoyRide said.........."Hi, my name is barb, I'm a steeped tea addict"
As for which EBC pads I have? No idea...I just trusted the guy at the parts counter to order the correct ones. DOH!
I'll see if I can give the wheel a spin in the parking lot this morning. Great idea...
I am learning lots, this is cool!
Oh, and SnowAviation? What FastJoyRide said.........."Hi, my name is barb, I'm a steeped tea addict"
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ionbeam
2 FUN
What you observed is correct. The pads only retract a very, very small distance. Were they to retract a significant distance you may have to pump the brake lever or peddle several times to move enough brake fluid to cause the piston & pads to move far enough to contact the rotor. Your eyes can not resolve the tiny distances that the pads retract or clamp.
Spinning the wheel is the easiest and best way to tell what your pad to rotor clearances are.
ummm Shinybaby? I AM a girl. Compact, already wet and convenient? I am sticking with baby wipes TYVM.
Thanks ionbeam. I'll do that. I did notice my fuel economy sucked yesterday, but I did leave kinda late and was....ummm....havin' fun
Maybe there is more to it.
CAJW
Well-known member
Yeah, Inquiring minds want to know. When I worked in BC, after work we went out for a "Blue" (Labatt's), :drinks: but haven't heard of a Tim's. Please Barb, do tell! DOH! :banghead: Looks like I need a Tim's, just re read some of the posts and saw my answer. Thanks for the quick answer Fast Joy Ride.
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wheatonFJR
...
Tim Horton's
..of course. A donut and sandwich shop. Everywhere in Canada.
...oops, I see Dave beat me to the punch.
..of course. A donut and sandwich shop. Everywhere in Canada.
...oops, I see Dave beat me to the punch.
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radman
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Ummm, the wipes, or??????????ummm Shinybaby? I AM a girl. Compact, already wet and convenient? I am sticking with baby wipes TYVM.
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*ROTFLMAO* man, I think I need a java this morning too........ DOH!ummm Shinybaby? I AM a girl. Compact, already wet and convenient? I am sticking with baby wipes TYVM.
Ummm, the wipes, or??????????
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Gunny! What annoys me is the dealers don't stock oem pads, only EBC, so I have to special order or mail order the oem pads.So, the EBC pads make a lot of brake dust and wear out the rotors in 20k miles.
Remind me now, why would you want to use these?
If you ended up with non-sintered pads they'll make a lot of dust. But don't worry they'll wear out fast and you can get some different ones.
The Yamaha service guys put non-sintered pads from Yamaha on my bike once and they were gone in 5-10K miles. The FJR comes stock with sintered pads. Whatever brand of pads you get make sure they are at least sintered. Sintered will be more expensive. And as RADMAN pointed out there are different hardnesses which will affect the wear of the rotors (and pads).
The Yamaha service guys put non-sintered pads from Yamaha on my bike once and they were gone in 5-10K miles. The FJR comes stock with sintered pads. Whatever brand of pads you get make sure they are at least sintered. Sintered will be more expensive. And as RADMAN pointed out there are different hardnesses which will affect the wear of the rotors (and pads).
mscott
Well-known member
Lot's of dust, and poor fuel economy too? I'd like to suggest something, but it's going to take a lengthy explaination to get the point across.
On my FZ1, a friend had me some stainless lines made up. In the install, I flushed the entire system(calipers too), and topped everything off, bled them out, and re-topped everything. A few months later, I installed new pads. I had a hard time with the second caliper compressing, so I opened up the bleeder to compress, and all is good...I thought. First ride I did a little wheely, and the front tire stopped quickly and barked as it hit the ground. When I got home, the rotors were pretty warm. I lifted the front wheel and tried to roll it, and it was hard to roll, not impossible, but hard. So I bled off a little fluid to release the calipers, and it rolled fine until I used the brakes, and then hard to roll again.
What was happening is...The master cylinder was too full and allowed no room for calipers to pull in and caused them to keep some pressure on the rotors. Simple? Took me a few minutes to figure that one out.
Check your Master cylinder, if it's full all the way to the top,(which it could very well be if the installer of your new pads just compressed the calipers) you need to remove some fluid. Opening the caliper bleeder valves and letting it gravity bleed is a good way of doing this.
I only say ALL this because you noticed fuel economy change which led me to think caliper drag...
Good luck.
Scott
On my FZ1, a friend had me some stainless lines made up. In the install, I flushed the entire system(calipers too), and topped everything off, bled them out, and re-topped everything. A few months later, I installed new pads. I had a hard time with the second caliper compressing, so I opened up the bleeder to compress, and all is good...I thought. First ride I did a little wheely, and the front tire stopped quickly and barked as it hit the ground. When I got home, the rotors were pretty warm. I lifted the front wheel and tried to roll it, and it was hard to roll, not impossible, but hard. So I bled off a little fluid to release the calipers, and it rolled fine until I used the brakes, and then hard to roll again.
What was happening is...The master cylinder was too full and allowed no room for calipers to pull in and caused them to keep some pressure on the rotors. Simple? Took me a few minutes to figure that one out.
Check your Master cylinder, if it's full all the way to the top,(which it could very well be if the installer of your new pads just compressed the calipers) you need to remove some fluid. Opening the caliper bleeder valves and letting it gravity bleed is a good way of doing this.
I only say ALL this because you noticed fuel economy change which led me to think caliper drag...
Good luck.
Scott
MEM
Well-known member
Geez Barb. Even [SIZE=18pt]I[/SIZE] picked up on that one! :lol:*ROTFLMAO* man, I think I need a java this morning too........ DOH!ummm Shinybaby? I AM a girl. Compact, already wet and convenient? I am sticking with baby wipes TYVM.
Ummm, the wipes, or??????????
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Okay, good thought. Another wrinkle. If he used DOT 3 instead of DOT 4, could that cause this possibly as well? Pads were done and fluid changed, but DOT 3 was used.
Mizz Bustanut
Well-known member
Oh my, Barb you better have more than just 1. You're slowin down and that's not a good thing. :lol:Geez Barb. Even [SIZE=18pt]I[/SIZE] picked up on that one! :lol:ummm Shinybaby? I AM a girl. Compact, already wet and convenient? I am sticking with baby wipes TYVM.
Ummm, the wipes, or??????????
*ROTFLMAO* man, I think I need a java this morning too........ DOH!
dcarver
Well-known member
Hey now, just what are we talking about here? Just Wonderin'... :lol:
Barb, your avatar reminded me of one of my favorite recent license plate sightings:
"PMS 24x7"
"PMS 24x7"
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madmike2
Shtirrenuppenmeister
I was wondering why "it's YOU" is in the bull's eye of Barb's avatar? :dribble:Barb, your avatar reminded me of one of my favorite recent license plate sightings:
"PMS 24x7"
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