PAIR Removal

[Fred W]

It is the intake air injection system that provides extra filtered air directly to the exhaust valve outlet during cold deceleration and is related to burning off hydrocarbons in the catalyst. It doesn't really do any harm to performance, although it can cause lean popping if you use aftermarket pipes. Mainly, it is a PITA to deal with every time you change spark plugs, do a throttle body sync or check valves. Getting rid of it really cleans up the engine area.

Gone

Hmmm... That floor looks kind of familiar. :huh:

So, I keep thinking of doing this and just haven't gotten around to it yet. BUT....I coulda swore I saw somewhere that in order to reach the bolts in the back, I was gonna need a round allen-wrench. Now, you guys are saying to just shorten the arm so an allen-wrench fits in the area, and make sure it's sharp?

Which is it? I'll be an angry bastard if I strip a bolt out and have to jerry rig it to get it fixed.

Zilla,

I did mine at the same time as the next valve check. Having the valve cover on the bench when doing it makes it trivial. And you know that you're going to have to take the thing off anyway then...

 

[HotRodZilla]

It is the intake air injection system that provides extra filtered air directly to the exhaust valve outlet during cold deceleration and is related to burning off hydrocarbons in the catalyst. It doesn't really do any harm to performance, although it can cause lean popping if you use aftermarket pipes. Mainly, it is a PITA to deal with every time you change spark plugs, do a throttle body sync or check valves. Getting rid of it really cleans up the engine area.

Gone

Hmmm... That floor looks kind of familiar. :huh:

So, I keep thinking of doing this and just haven't gotten around to it yet. BUT....I coulda swore I saw somewhere that in order to reach the bolts in the back, I was gonna need a round allen-wrench. Now, you guys are saying to just shorten the arm so an allen-wrench fits in the area, and make sure it's sharp?

Which is it? I'll be an angry bastard if I strip a bolt out and have to jerry rig it to get it fixed.

Zilla,

I did mine at the same time as the next valve check. Having the valve cover on the bench when doing it makes it trivial. And you know that you're going to have to take the thing off anyway then...

I'm only at 40k, and I don't know if I'll ever do my own valve check. I'm mechanically inclined, but truthfully, I don't really know how to properly measure the clearance. That part would be easy to fix, but if something is out of spec, I don't think there is any way I would take the cams out and shim the dammed thing. Too may instances of people skipping a tooth on the chain. I think I will just pay to have it done and reduce my stress level.

That being said, I probably won't have my head off anytime soon...

 

[ionbeam]

...That being said, I probably won't have my head off anytime soon...

 

[Fred W]

headless kitty picture no workiee

 

[TomInPA]

Well, I shamelessly borrowed Fred's removed PAIR valve picture, but here is mine

And the newly cleaned up head with the Wynpro plates ready for reinstallation

 

[FJRGuy]

Engine is cleaner - haven't put the clamp on cover 1 plug yet (yes, that is an old flat head 3/8" socket with the driver end cut off in the tube - no there is no hole in the socket end like regular sockets.)

Wondering why one would plug a hose with a socket or something like that when there is a perfectly good plug and clamp in the mess that was removed?

(Unless maybe it's a Kali model and doesn't have the plug.

)

Although I removed my PAIR, I didn't bother with plates. A couple bucks worth of 'Caps' at the local Auto Parts store, reuse existing clamps and I was done in minutes. Not quite as clean as the plates, but definitely cheaper and easier!

 

[08FJR4ME]

It is the intake air injection system that provides extra filtered air directly to the exhaust valve outlet during cold deceleration and is related to burning off hydrocarbons in the catalyst. It doesn't really do any harm to performance, although it can cause lean popping if you use aftermarket pipes. Mainly, it is a PITA to deal with every time you change spark plugs, do a throttle body sync or check valves. Getting rid of it really cleans up the engine area.

Gone

To my understanding this is the opposite. The covers eliminate or reduce popping on decel. Correct me if I am wrong. Sorry to here that Scrib had a hard time of it. I wonder if little direct heat with a propane torch might have alleviated some of the pain in taking the bolt out. Works on Fords anyway! Ask me how I know. Doesn't work on Nissan's but that is another story. You should always bag the excess parts and hang em in the garage at least that's what I do. Its a good way to track what you have done. As stated in another post you never know when you might have to put the system back on.

Dave

 

[TomInPA]

Dave, I probably didn't write as clearly as I could have. The PAIR injection system is blamed for some popping and other problems. The Wynpro covers eliminate the PAIR. I have eliminated the air injection system on all my recent bikes that had it. Exhaust air injection is especially bad in V-Twin cruisers with aftermarket pipes and intake mods.

I had one of the bolts start to round out, so I waited until I had the cover in my hands and used an impact driver to remove the allen screw (the kind you hit with a hammer and it turns out the screw). Worked like a charm. The bolts are soft, and once you start to strip the bolt-head, you need to stop and do something else. If that was my head cover, I would remove it at next valve adjustment, drill out that bolt with a left-drive drill to extract it, and re-tap it.

 

[captkirk]

Question... I have done the "pair removal" to several bikes and learned that if you flip over the reed valves and cap off the tubes (as second defense) you dont need aftermarket plates. Does the FJR use the same design as a Kawi or Hondo? Thanks

 

[GeorgiaRoller]

Although I removed my PAIR, I didn't bother with plates. A couple bucks worth of 'Caps' at the local Auto Parts store, reuse existing clamps and I was done in minutes. Not quite as clean as the plates, but definitely cheaper and easier!

That's what I did as well. Even though this is an old post I thought I'd post the part# for other members currently removing their pair system.

This method you only have to tip up your gas tank to install and it just takes a few minutes & your done.

Napa Part# 660-1696 for $2.99 for (2ea) works great. So for just over $6.00 your capped off. Even though these say they are 5/8" dia...when you measure the cap I.D. it's actually 9/16" so they fit nice & snug over the pair valve intake ports and they have a nice thick rubber wall to them.

 

[Constant Mesh]

How did you close off the air box connection? Its diameter is a bit larger than those on the head cover.

 

[GeorgiaRoller]

How did you close off the air box connection? Its diameter is a bit larger than those on the head cover.

Actually I used this same 5/8" cap. Don't ask why it works for both even though they are slightly different size ports. They fit snug on the (4) engine ports and it's a very, very tight fit on the air box port.

If you try to use the 1/2" caps on the (4) engine ports they are a PITA to get on because they are actually a bit too small and after just one season of riding you'll find that all 4 have split down the side and are just loosely sitting there. So go with (5) of those 5/8" caps and it will work for everything.

 

[Aasland]

I plugged the stock cap hose barbs with JB weld. Not as pretty as the WynPro's, but i didn't have to wait for them. Yes, this is a permanent "fix".