Peg and Shifter

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jcd

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Hawdy to all,

May the torque be with you.

I already ran into having to modify the bike. I tend to like the more robust footwear closely associated with offroad protection and it appears that every boot I have tried (Answer Faser, Fly Maverik, etc., has a very tall toe box and I have already adjusted the pedal to it's greatest height. Are there any shifters with offsets or adjustable pegs that can be used to either raise the shifter up about an inch or lower the peg the same distance or do I have to settle for the "touring boots" which quite frankly makes me feel extremely vulnerable? I'm having a really hard time finding these and wanted to pose my inquiry to those that have already trailblazed this tarmac. I wear a size 13 wide and believe me when I tell you that the foot feels extremely long on that little peg when I'm on the ball of my feet. Anybody know of a solution out there or will it have to be custom milled?

Thanks

J

 
I already ran into having to modify the bike. I tend to like the more robust footwear closely associated with offroad protection and it appears that every boot I have tried I wear a size 13 wide and believe me when I tell you that the foot feels extremely long on that little peg when I'm on the ball of my feet.

Anybody know of a solution out there or will it have to be custom milled?

Thanks
'Big Foot' here, too...

You may need/want to have a custom-part?

I will offer this: I've found my big left foot has a little trouble finding the right position early-on in the ride -- but, as the day/ride progresses, it learns where it needs to be in order to get the job done.

So..., the issue sort-of rectifies itself (for me).

Y're welcome

 
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You might also try sliding the arm off the upper shaft and rotating it to the next toothe of the splines, which would raise that end of the adjustable link, giving you more room to play with.

Mark where it is with a Sharpie, loosen the pinch bolt and slide it off. I can't remember, but you might have to fully remove the pinch bolt to slide the arm off the shaft.

 
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Thanks

I appreciate the suggestions. I did all of those. In fact, I lowered my brake pedal just enough so that I have to really do a ballet stance to lock up the rear brakes (That one is perfect now) and then I raised the shifter until it would not allow any shifting and then backed it off until I can shift seamlessly.

I noticed that you have really got to throw the gear into second with authority to get it over the hump. Is this typical? :dribble:

 
...I lowered my brake pedal just enough so that I have to really do a ballet stance to lock up the rear brakes (That one is perfect now)?
Good move (many demanded ABS as a solution...}

I noticed that you have really got to throw the gear into second with authority to get it over the hump. Is this typical?
Don't know.

I substituted the R-1 (shorter) trans-shift lever right-off -- felt the throw was too long, initially. The shorter R-1 lever worked for me.

Search and I'm pretty sure you'll find the needed info.

 
Good move (many demanded ABS as a solution...}
Hawdy

ABS does have its place for some but I can't really say that I'm ready to give up brake control to electronics just yet for the kind of rider that I am. Excellent arguments can certainly be made for both sides. It has been demonstrated that ABS has not reduced the severity of the crashes but it does reduce their number, in a deceptive way if you ask me. All tests I'm aware about were done in the same exact conditions "wet" at the same exact speeds, which is misleading because Im 100% certain that 100mph on dry track translates to 50 mph on a wet track because we slow it down when inclement.

In my opinion, maximum braking is MECHANICAL operator responsibility and should not be left to an electronic component which reinforces a false sense of security and could in fact fail while in use and you have 200#'s of force on the rear and front brakes as it decides to short out.

I'm learning the FJR's braking range now and I have to say that it reduces energy fast. I'm quite impressed. :clapping: Gotta get the shifter squared away and all will be in order in the universe...until the next mod. ;)

 
Well, in response to that, I'll say that it has never been a design goal of ABS to maximize braking. It's only function is to prevent lockup. Period. If you're stopping hard enough for ABS to kick in, you're actually increasing your braking distance. I mean, it works by releasing the brakes, right? However instantaneously, it releases them.

But by doing so, and by preventing lockup of the wheels, it allows the vehicle operator, whether 2, 3, or 4 wheels, to maintain control of the vehicle.

As for it advantages, I know for a fact that ABS on my car has kept me out of trouble at least twice that I can recall right now. I've never ridden a bike with ABS, but my second get-off from the FJR would not have happened, as I locked the front wheel.

That said, the ABS in that same car could have killed me one night. I came around a bend, saw a stop sign I'd never seen before, and hit the brakes hard. I maintained perfect control as I went through the intersection while the ABS kept me from locking up where sand had blown onto the road during the day's blusteriness. The car hardly slowed at all! That's why ABS on the Super Tenere is such an issue: who the hell wants it if you're off-road?

As for an ABS system failure, it's so unlikely as to be completely discountable. Even so, an ABS failure is not a brake failure. It's merely a failure of the ABS system, reducing the user to normal brakes without lockup prevention. As for its unlikeliness, I'm talking about unexpected failure at the moment of use. The system has enough self-diag and startup test capability as to make you well aware ahead of time that something's amiss by flashing that light on the dash.

 
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[Off topic] - but I think it's important.

Good move (many demanded ABS as a solution...}
Hawdy

ABS does have its place for some but I can't really say that I'm ready to give up brake control to electronics just yet for the kind of rider that I am. Excellent arguments can certainly be made for both sides. It has been demonstrated that ABS has not reduced the severity of the crashes but it does reduce their number, in a deceptive way if you ask me. All tests I'm aware about were done in the same exact conditions "wet" at the same exact speeds, which is misleading because Im 100% certain that 100mph on dry track translates to 50 mph on a wet track because we slow it down when inclement.

In my opinion, maximum braking is MECHANICAL operator responsibility and should not be left to an electronic component which reinforces a false sense of security and could in fact fail while in use and you have 200#'s of force on the rear and front brakes as it decides to short out.

I'm learning the FJR's braking range now and I have to say that it reduces energy fast. I'm quite impressed. :clapping: Gotta get the shifter squared away and all will be in order in the universe...until the next mod. ;)
If only life was that simple. On real roads, particularly in the sort of weather we get in the UK, the road surface conditions can change foot by foot.

... It's only function is to prevent lockup. Period. If you're stopping hard enough for ABS to kick in, you're actually increasing your braking distance. I mean, it works by releasing the brakes, right? However instantaneously, it releases them.

 

But by doing so, and by preventing lockup of the wheels, it allows the vehicle operator, whether 2, 3, or 4 wheels, to maintain control of the vehicle.

...
I totally agree with wfooshee, and no, you shouldn't make every hard braking episode rely totally on the ABS.

I have on a couple of occasions under emergency braking conditions used the ABS to enable me to judge how much braking I can apply, feeling the lever's pulsing as an indication to back off, then apply a bit more to bring it on.

To quote from one ride report I did:

... Made it to the motorway, proceeded at normal speed, until I saw a car's hub-cap, rolling toward me in my lane, gently crossing from one side to the other, then blowing across again....I have to say I was very impressed by the FJR's brakes, its ABS, and the way I held the braking on the verge of the ABS operating, all on a road surface that was damp with varying levels of grip. ...
Unless you are a top racer, on the road I firmly believe ABS is a potential life saver, and I'd never have a bike that didn't have it. As for the ABS failing, I periodically test mine under "controlled conditions", yes, even the front. I think it's no more likely to fail than any other of the hydraulic or electronic systems that the bike relies on for your safety.



If you want to read a controlled test of bikes with and without ABS, try this link.



[/Off Topic]

 
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[Off topic] - but I think it's important.

It is important but I don't want to get a stern talking to for braking the rules so early, so I will start a new thread so we can discuss the matter more clearly and not have a search provide a false result.
 
Well I am having a bit of an issue with finding the shifter at times. I know part of that is few miles on the bike. I need to get more miles to get my body to adjust and with my injury's healing, that adds to the mix. I had a Peg Extender on my LT and that was the answer. I am not sure if the peg rubber is the same size but I have ordered a Peg Extender from Ilum Works. Peg Extender I had one for 34,000 miles on the LT and it was golden. I will let all know if it works or can be made to work on the FJR. For 20 bucks it is well worth it to me to try it out. I will post up once it comes.

 
Well I am having a bit of an issue with finding the shifter at times. I know part of that is few miles on the bike. I need to get more miles to get my body to adjust and with my injury's healing, that adds to the mix. I had a Peg Extender on my LT and that was the answer. I am not sure if the peg rubber is the same size but I have ordered a Peg Extender from Ilum Works. Peg Extender I had one for 34,000 miles on the LT and it was golden. I will let all know if it works or can be made to work on the FJR. For 20 bucks it is well worth it to me to try it out. I will post up once it comes.
Thanks

I too have very little time and miles on the bike. I suppose time will cure some of the discomfort but I'm not certain it will raise the shifter or lower the peg. :lol:

 
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