Pivot Maintenance - FJR Stand?

[Mihalis fjr]

Another thing to consider is that by drilling the (solid) bolt through the center you'll have essentially made it a hollow tube. How much will that weaken the bolt to the lateral loads of the bearing?

Τhe bolts in the rear linkage of my 1990 XTZ 750 have grease nipples on from mama Yamaha..Nice old years....

Not only is very easy to remove the rear linkage,about ten minutes job,only four bolts,but even so they installed grease nipples to avoid this ten minutes job...!!!

 

[eastern5]

Swingarm pivot bearings, relay arm bearings and center stand lube, Yeah!

I was able to get to all bolts, no cutting needed. and obviously reversed a few bolts on the center stand to make the next time easier.

 

[eastern5]

There are so many ways of accomplishing this maintenance. I wanted to share what works for me. I used nylon lifting sling with a hoist. The two tiedowns are to keep it balanced.

lifting points here

and here

 

[BigOgre]

^That looks like one clean bike.

 

[eastern5]

"glamour filter" power up

 

[bseelbach]

Finally tackled the pivot relay yesterday. After reading horror stories and having 53K on the bike I needed peace of mind. In preparation, I secured a used pivot with bearings from ebay so I could swap out if needed and not have downtime. I ended up not needing it....the bearings looked great!!

Disassembly was OK but I spent an extra hour fighting with a rounded off center stand bolt. Cutting the front bolts was easier than expected with a cut off wheel on one side and a sawzall on the other. Replacement hardware store bolts were installed from the inboard side to make it easier next time.

I mounted a $20 Harbor Freight worm drive hand winch to a beam in the garage and used a sling through the frame. I added 2 straps to keep it from swaying. https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-geared-winch-…

The winch worked great and offers more control when lowering as compared to ratchet strap.

 

[Mad German]

Bumping an old thread since I couldn't find the answer. When replacing the long centerstand bolts, it seems a lot of guys use shorter ones. Can anyone help with the bolt specs (size, pitch, length, grade, etc.) and a source for these bolts?

Thx guys.

 

[Ignacio]

Can anyone help with the bolt specs (size, pitch, length, grade, etc.) and a source for these bolts?

I took the existing bolts to my local quality fastener store (Tacoma Screw in my regional case) and asked them to provide replacements.

 

[Mad German]

Thx. I appreciate it. I believe I have a Fastenal store local to me. If not, I'll have to keep investigating. Thx again.

 

[eflyguy]

... or if that's not an option, take them to your local big-box hardware store and match them up with the correct sizes, and then order them online. Post up here what you find, also!

I'm grateful to have a few of the real hardware stores still around, a couple carry an extensive range of SS hardware, in metric even!

 

[Fred W]

I do not think the OE bolts were stainless, just nickel plated. I too went to my local TrueValue with one of the uncut bolts and found a metric bolt the same size and pitch, but a few mm shorter than the OE one so it wouldn't foul against the exhaust pipe. I seem to remember that the OE ones are an odd length (like 17mm?) so the standard sized bolts available were slightly shorter. I re-used the stock locking nut because they are of the mechanical locking type that I like better than the NyLoc variety.

 

[pierreroyoldtimer]

Anybody had to replace the 2 dog bones bearings? How do you remove those bearings?

 

[pierreroyoldtimer]

To be more specific about my last thread, I want to know if the center bearings can be pressed right through the link from one side or if they have to be cut and pulled out?

 

[Fred W]

Ive not had to replace the bearings at the swingarm end if the dog bones, which I think are the ones you are asking about, right?

Or were you asking about the double bearing set in the center of the relay arm that the dog bones attach to? Ive never done those yet either.

In either case I think driving them out from the opposite side wouldnt be too hard with a long rod/punch. I do not think that you can push both bearings through from one side though. A blind puller would work too, but would probably be more of a PITA in both cases.

First hand experience would probably be better than my conjecture.

 

[griff]

I can't remember if I had to replace the swingarm end dog bones, but I remember using a blind bearing puller on some of those bearings. Got the blind bearing puller at Harbor Freight.

 

[FJR1300OfIndia]

I bought a motorcycle/ATV lift from Harbor Freight this weekend. They had a Memorial Day sale going and the lift was originally $150 but on sale for $80. With the 20% coupon, I walked out the door with it for $64. Not bad considering I was laying on the floor and was using the center stand and a floor jack. I wasn't going to service the center stand until I finished the pivot points etc. but quickly realized that in order to get the Relay Arm out, I'd have to take out the center stand because of the bolt issue. Wish I'd seen this post earlier...

The issue I have now is that one of the center stand bolts stripped (probably from previous owner or shop). Unfortunately I stripped it more and there's just no room to get any vise grips on it. The 3 other bolts were difficult to get loose and made a snapping noise when they finally moved. I'm going to replace all the bolts just to be safe. Does anyone know if they have to be Yamaha specific bolts or can I pick some up at an auto parts store of for that matter Home Depot/Lowes?

I am planning the use the same method.

Here is the link to the lift I think you mentioned. If I have this, I shouldn't need anything else, correct? Put bike on center stand, jackup with the lift, secure with straps to the lift, and center stand would automatically flip back once lift raises bike. From there, follow the process. Am I missing anything?

 

[infrared]

Snowflake on another FJR forum installs Zerk grease fittings, and rebuilds the Relay Arm as needed. Send him yours, or find a used one to get reworked by him. He does great work; I got one done for my FJR. Prices are good, and you only pay for the work, plus what is needed on the rebuild. You may need to log in, to see pix.

Relay Arm with Zerks

 

[FJR_Rebel]

I am planning the use the same method.

Here is the link to the lift I think you mentioned. If I have this, I shouldn't need anything else, correct? Put bike on center stand, jackup with the lift, secure with straps to the lift, and center stand would automatically flip back once lift raises bike. From there, follow the process. Am I missing anything?

I HIGHLY recommend you remove your relay arm and send to Russel Holden. He does a quick turn around on modifying the relay arm and/or a total rebuild while he has it. All I do now is give a couple of pumps with the grease gun every so often and ride on.

 

[RossKean]

I am planning the use the same method.

Here is the link to the lift I think you mentioned. If I have this, I shouldn't need anything else, correct? Put bike on center stand, jackup with the lift, secure with straps to the lift, and center stand would automatically flip back once lift raises bike. From there, follow the process. Am I missing anything?

What lift points are you using on the bike? Not sure how a motorcycle lift like that would work for a FJR...

 

[Panman]

Thinking the same thing, there isn't that much that I would want to lift 650 lbs under it.

 

[FJR1300OfIndia]

I was thinking of lifting with headers.