Pliers for releasing hose clamps

[Constant Mesh]

For many FJR hose clamps, pliers with a wider tip would be helpful when opening and sliding a clamp along a hose. Some of the clamps are a bit too wide for my generic, narrow tip flat-nose pliers.

Maybe end-nipper or end-cutter pincers would be a good choice for releasing these clamps.

What tool is recommended for manipulating these clamps?

I'm not fond of the sometimes sharp edges on these clamps.

 

[bluesdog]

Somehow I've always managed with the various pliers I have on hand. For the sharp edges, one can wrap a bit of electician's tape, or brush some plasti-dip, or similar, to reduce the chance of injury..

There is an astonishing variety of clamp pliers available on the market:

lmgtfy

 

[infrared]

For many FJR hose clamps, pliers with a wider tip would be helpful when opening and sliding a clamp along a hose. Some of the clamps are a bit too wide for my generic, narrow tip flat-nose pliers. What tool is recommended for manipulating these clamps? I'm not fond of the sometimes sharp edges on these clamps.

Constant Mesh,

Common slip-joint pliers do okay, especially if they are the smaller sizes. The wide-nosed variety of "narrow-nosed" pliers are called Duck-Billed Pliers.

 

[Road_Runner]

Hose clamp pliers maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4502-Hose-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B000I1KJT8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405019671&sr=8-1&keywords=hose+clamps+pliers

 

[Fred W]

I usually try to use needle nose pliers from the side. Works well for me

 

[Constant Mesh]

I prefer a tool which will be oriented perpendicular to the clamp and hose.

After rummaging through my meager assortment of tools today I found some 7" lineman's pliers which have a bit wider bite. Too bad I didn't remember I had these.

Earlier this week I checked the valve clearances, changed the spark plugs and coolant. I've retained the air induction system and I was wrestling with some of its hose clamps.

I was prepared to abrade some shims but all clearances were OK -- no action needed. It appears my clearances have stabilized at 75K miles. If anything some opened up 0.0005 inches or so. At the 50K mile check the ambient temp was 60+ degrees. This time the ambient was closer to 85 degrees. Probably just my haphazard skill in using feeler gauges.

I'm very happy I didn't have to remove a camshaft. That Delvac 15w-40 oil sure keeps everything under the cylinder head cover nice and clean.

For the first time I removed the cylinder identification sensor from atop the head cover before pulling the cover. That made it a bit easier to access the cover bolt in the right rear corner. It seemed that the bolt securing the sensor was thread-locked.

I removed the small coolant hose (wax motor) from the manifold and took the manifold with me to get new o-rings. The small connection tube on the manifold was slightly narrowed with a bit of crud. I cleaned it out with a small screwdriver. Don't know if the flow was slightly reduced?

I got some free "sample" o-rings from a local gasket vendor. Turns out the guy behind the counter has a 650 V-Strom. "No charge" he says. We chose two #116 and one #213 o-rings.

About a year ago I got a new gasket for my oil filler cap from this vendor. It was always weeping a bit and the new flatter profile, bigger surface area gasket stopped the oozing.

 

[Fred W]

Sounds like it was a successful day of preventive wrenching. Congrats on not having to adjust. The only caveat is to watch those apparently growing clearances as they may be carbon build up on otherwise worn faces. If something happens in the future to remove that carbon it could mean out of spec valves on the too tight variety.

 

[Constant Mesh]

Don't know how many heating/cooling cycles it will take to evacuate all the air from the cooling system after the coolant change. I overfilled the expansion tank assuming that the level would be good after all the air is evacuated. I ran it and got it up to three bars before replacing the right side cowling. I saw air bubbles percolating up in the expansion tank and the level dropping.

My new FJR emptied out some coolant from the expansion tank soon after I first began riding it. I assumed they purposely overfilled the tank at the factory or maybe the dealer did it at assembly. Although, I doubt the dealer added any coolant.

 

[rbentnail]

I usually try to use needle nose pliers from the side. Works well for me

90* needle nosed pliers work well. El-cheapo at Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc.

Don't know how many heating/cooling cycles it will take to evacuate all the air from the cooling system after the coolant change. I overfilled the expansion tank assuming that the level would be good after all the air is evacuated. I ran it and got it up to three bars before replacing the right side cowling. I saw air bubbles percolating up in the expansion tank and the level dropping.
My new FJR emptied out some coolant from the expansion tank soon after I first began riding it. I assumed they purposely overfilled the tank at the factory or maybe the dealer did it at assembly. Although, I doubt the dealer added any coolant.

My '07, I do the same as you apparently. Overfill the overflow reservoir by about an inch and run it. I've found that the level will eventually fall to about 3/8" below the full mark when cold, takes about 10-14 heat cycles. You should be good.