Useful Hint - Tank Removal

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

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I've discovered on my '09 that it makes it much easier to refasten the two screws at the front of the tank if I first remove the long bolt at the rear. Once the front screws are turned down finger tight the rear bolt just slides into place easily. If I don't remove the rear bolt it is necessary to do a lot of pushing and wedging the tank forward to get the holes in the bracket to line up nicely with the screw holes.

The reason for this is the front p[late with the two bolt holes in it is actually "floating" on some shock absorbing rubber mounts. When you have the tank tilted back the plate slides rearward and the holes don't seem to line up. When you remove the long rear pivot bolt and attach the two front bolts first, the weight of the tank tugs downward on the tank and lines everything up for you.

 
I've discovered on my '09 that it makes it much easier to refasten the two screws at the front of the tank if I first remove the long bolt at the rear. Once the front screws are turned down finger tight the rear bolt just slides into place easily. If I don't remove the rear bolt it is necessary to do a lot of pushing and wedging the tank forward to get the holes in the bracket to line up nicely with the screw holes.

The reason for this is the front p[late with the two bolt holes in it is actually "floating" on some shock absorbing rubber mounts. When you have the tank tilted back the plate slides rearward and the holes don't seem to line up. When you remove the long rear pivot bolt and attach the two front bolts first, the weight of the tank tugs downward on the tank and lines everything up for you.
This sort of gem right here is what makes this forum! I gave up putting my RAMBone mount back on after struggling to re-install those two bolts. Now I know I can put it back without having to fling tools across the garage!!

 
I've discovered on my '09 that it makes it much easier to refasten the two screws at the front of the tank if I first remove the long bolt at the rear. Once the front screws are turned down finger tight the rear bolt just slides into place easily. If I don't remove the rear bolt it is necessary to do a lot of pushing and wedging the tank forward to get the holes in the bracket to line up nicely with the screw holes.
The reason for this is the front p[late with the two bolt holes in it is actually "floating" on some shock absorbing rubber mounts. When you have the tank tilted back the plate slides rearward and the holes don't seem to line up. When you remove the long rear pivot bolt and attach the two front bolts first, the weight of the tank tugs downward on the tank and lines everything up for you.
It's been known for some peeps to try to lift the front of the tank without slackening the hinge bolt first. This bends the metal the bolt goes through, pulling it back, so the front holes no longer align.
 
Thanks Fred. I didn't stop to look and see why the long bolt just slid in so easily, I was just happy it did and the tank was secure and at least safe from any damage I could inflict by knocking it off the bike and onto the floor. These little design details make me appreciate the FJR even more every time I get a chance to tinker with it.

 
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