Potato chip tire

[AFCJER]

In an effort to save some dough becuase I'm a cheap ******* I decided to give home tire changing a try. Before I ripped into my FJR rims I decided to use my wife's 90's something Virago 535 as test bed and it's been a learning experience to say the least.

The front tire was first. Tire off not to bad tire, to put on more difficult. Inflate the tire and it starts leaking. Remove tire and discover I pinched the tube. Yes, this bike has spokes and therefore tubes. Not sure if tube tires are more difficult to change than tubeless but they have one more thing to deal with and therefore one more thing to go wrong. Replacement tube ordered, lesson learned and moving on.......

Rear tire was replaced tonight. On and off was still a pain but maybe a little easier. I'm either getting better or it could be that this tire has is a completely different profile. Go to inflate and it holds air. Amazing I didn't put a hole in the tube on this time.

Now after the long intro, here is the issue. The tire is not seating properly and looks kind of potato chip like. I let air out, checked for obstructions (no signs), lubed it up and inflated again to around 38 lbs. which is just over the operating specs of 36 lbs. No change it still looks like a potato chip. It does have one buldge that is much more noticable than the other side so it's more like a ruffles than a pringles. So before I swear at it anymore I thought I would see if anyone else here has experience with this.

Should I deflate and try reposistioning the tube?

Should I inflate to 50+psi and see if it seats itself?

Should I put it back on the bike and run it up to max speed of about 90 and see if the centrifical force can help?

On a side note for anyone that has changed tires a similar tube tire and a tubeless, are tubless (FJR) tires going to be harder?

Thanks in advance.

 

[r1byker]

Uh, potato chip=not good. My guess would be a pinched tube and, whatever it is, it's not safe to ride. I haven't changed tube tires in 20 years but I will say that tubeless tires are a breeze with the right tools. Of course, my idea of the right tools include a Coats 220 manual tire changer.

 

[mdisher]

If it's just a matter of getting it to seat, lube it up again and put some real pressure in it. 50+ up to 60/70 to get it to pop then let the pressure out. You'll be fine.

(Bounce the wheel too when it has some pressure in it to coax it up).

 

[AFCJER]

Thanks Renegade, I tried the bouncing before but your advice to up the PSI did the trick. I was just being to timid. At about 60 PSI the two parts of the bead that were not cooperating popped into place. It's back to operating PSI and pretty true. Now I'll be able to sleep well.

R1,

Coats 220 & cheap ******* don't go together but that is a nice piece of equipment.

 

[TNT]

I use a cheap Harbor Freight changer and a No Mar Bar. Of the 3 bikes that I have, the FJR is the easiest to change the tires.

 

[Silent]

Tubeless is MUCH easier to change than tubed, especially if your tubed tires have those anti spin clamps that lock the tire bead in.

Don't be afraid to hit 50-60psi to pop the bead, but do remember to drop it to spec before riding it. Another trick to coax the bead is to rap on the tire itself with a rubber mallot. The impact force shocks the tire enough that it can coax the bead to set, simmilar effect to bouncing. Just another tool in the arsenel.

 

[Geezer]

Tubes can be a pain. You have to be careful to push the tube out of your way each time you insert the tire iron. Also, make sure the tube is not twisted.

When you're setting the bead, make sure you use plenty of tire lube. It dries out while you are spooning the tire on so you may need to add some. I use the NAPA stuff. I put it in an old spray bottle that comes with glass cleaner in it.

Also, I leave the valve core out while setting the bead so the air can get in there faster. Insert the valve core and refill to correct pressure.

 

[Charlie Hoss]

In addition to the excellent points already made, add a little air to the installed tube before spooning the tire onto the rim. This takes out all the wrinkles and the tire iron is less likely to catch on the tube and pinch it.

 

[gasportrider]

Great tips posted by all. One other is to employ an old automotive rim in the arsenal when working with a front wheel, particularly. It takes the risks of warping the rotors out of the picture.

Split a water or heater hose and place it around the perimeter of the auto rim so as to avoid scratches on your moto wheels.

I'm so conscious of the magnetic ring on the rear wheel of the FJR that I use it for the rear wheel as well. Plus, it gets you off the floor a bit.

A super bead breaker can be had at JC Whitney for about $80.

Save those bucks!!

 

[3dogs]

A good trick to get any tire to seat on the rim is to remove the valve steam core and inflate the tire until it seats (I've had to put as much as 100 psi on some tires). Removing the core will allow the tire to inflate faster, thus seating the tire's beads on the rim.