Power (Barrier) Strip install on a Gen II

[phroenips]

It's cold out there (1.2 F right now) and I can't ride...time to farkle.

I decided to go ahead and install a power barrier strip, originally found here: https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=25

After what felt like 18 trips to radio shack and the auto parts store to get crap I kept forgetting, I was finally able to get it done.

I chose to install the strip itself behind panel C, thinking I could also mount the relay nearby. I could not find the mount points that warchild used in his (very helpful) guide...don't know if it's a Gen 1 vs 2 thing, or if I just didn't see it. Anyway, here's the strip, ziptied up:

I didn't think the headlight adjuster cable would interfere eletrically, but to be safe, I wrapped it in electrical tape:

And I ultimately had to mount the relay off of the little glovebox thingie:

For anyone out there thinking of doing this, do yourself a favor...get a good set of wire crimpers. I had to redo all my crimps because the cheapy crimpers I had didn't do the job properly and the wires would slip out.

But it's done, and much to my dismay, it works! Thanks for the writeup warchild...now to wait for my heated grips to arrive so I can wire it up to my fancy new (relayed) power strip

 

[TriggerT]

My first thought is how hard it might be to route all the wires behind that panel. My next thought is that while this is one way to go, I am glad I went with a fuzebox. Though I have to admit, that I am running a hell of a lot of wires from the front of the bike to the back where the fuzebox is located, and you set up might have been the easier way to go.

 

[Checkswrecks]

There is another place that has more real estate to work from. You can easily mount the relay and barrier strip to the back of the glove box. Install the fuse near the battery and just a set of 10-12 gage power and ground source wires (i each) for the setup have to be routed from right to left. This way, you can have a battery hot terminal and then the relay to provide switched power. I cut out nice neat rain shields from clear 2 liter soda bottles.

 

[John d]

I assume you have a fuse between the + battery terminal and the power strip, but I couldn't see it in the pictures.

 

[TriggerT]

Hey, the good news is that you have a Gen 2 that actually generates enough power to run all those things. If it was a Gen 1, you would need a trailer full of batteries behind you for the farkels, and to run the air conditioner to keep from roasting you nuts.

 

[foshow150]

Hey, the good news is that you have a Gen 2 that actually generates enough power to run all those things. If it was a Gen 1, you would need a trailer full of batteries behind you for the farkels, and to run the air conditioner to keep from roasting you nuts.

I have a Gen 1. Power strip installed, heated grips, a port for my vest, datel,GPS, and I can run every HEAT related thing on about half power to three quarters via HEAT trollers. I can't begin to tell you how helpful those trollers are. A must. I had a friend of mine help me install a full HID conversion plus aux lights. Plenty of juice. IMO. Point being, Energy management is the key no matter what bike you have. Now who's faster? lol no reply needed..... I need the speed to keep cool..... :diablo: :cold: :diablo:

 

[FJR Flyer]

I put the barrier strip under the seat. More room and easier access. Made a little cover for it.

 

[Burnspot]

I set my barrier strip up in a similar fashion; however, I mounted the strip on the exterior rearward facing portion of the glovebox with the relay mounted on the glovebox's front screw as you have it. It works quite well. Hot line is fused at the battery and runs with a ground behind the instrument panel...there's a square tube frame running behind everything and there was space on top of it to slide the wires through, making for a neat appearance.

 

[wfooshee]

Mine is behind the battery on the right side. 6 terminal pairs, I use 2 for hot, 2 for switched, and 2 for ground, with approrpiate gauge wire and fuses for the feed side. I painted the screws on the feed side red, orange, and black to make identification simple and reliable. Relay for switched is a plain old automotive-type watertight relay, triggered by the blue running lights wire.

 

[phroenips]

I assume you have a fuse between the + battery terminal and the power strip, but I couldn't see it in the pictures.

Well, between the battery and the relay, but yes

 

[phroenips]

There is another place that has more real estate to work from. You can easily mount the relay and barrier strip to the back of the glove box. Install the fuse near the battery and just a set of 10-12 gage power and ground source wires (i each) for the setup have to be routed from right to left. This way, you can have a battery hot terminal and then the relay to provide switched power. I cut out nice neat rain shields from clear 2 liter soda bottles.

Yeah, I thought of this too, but can't remember why I decided against it

I've still got plenty of 12 gauge wiring if I decide to relocate

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

About to add a strip to the 08'.

.

Used a barrier strip on the 04', under the seat and ran all wired in a heat shield cover along side tank.

.

Seen a few Blue sea fuse blocks that have power and ground connections; looks really clean too.

Wondering if it would be better than a plain barrier strip? Any major advantages?

 

[FJR Flyer]

I decided to use two smaller barrier strips, one for hot, one for ground. Hot is powered by a relay also under the seat, and with the fused feed under the tank with the napa heat shielding.