Power Commander V + Autotune Gen II install

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Andyfjr

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Location
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I know several people have done this install but I thought I would post up my install for future reference.

The PC V will fit any GenII model, my own install is on a 2007 UK model.

Advantages over PC3 are the ability to have in gear mapping, toggle between maps or switch auto tune on/off on the move. tweak target AFR to improve mpg per gear. Lots of sensor readouts on your laptop when monitoring PC V, just more!

Seat of pants feeling is that the PC V is smoother in throttle response, maybe due to extra fuel coloumn.

Thanks to Dave at Verizon.net for supplying Pair blanking plates (08FJR4ME-FJRFORUM member) and Poweracing for supply of the Power commander V + auto tune.

First of all read the full instructions before beginning.

First job is to remove the Pair air recirc system. You must remove this if you intend to use the Autotune facility. The Autotune uses a wideband O2 sensor and will not get accurate readings unless the pair system is disabled/removed. There are many threads covering removal.

https://img535.imageshack.us/img535/7060/imag0262s.jpg

Pair system removed, and the one tool needed.

https://img831.imageshack.us/img831/848/imag0266.jpg

The new blanking covers installed, much tidier now.

https://img819.imageshack.us/img819/4961/imag0267.jpg

Now to install the New power commander V, exactly the same as installing a PC3. Disconnect the fuel injection plug and fit the power commander to these plugs. Route the earth lead to the battery negative terminal.

I removed the blanking plug from my exhaust(when using a PC3) and fitted the new Bosch wideband sensor, route the cable upto the tool tray.

Now time to add sensor inputs from the bike into the PC V

I used two inputs for the PC V, VSS speed sensor and water temperature sensor.

The rear speed sensor, tapped this off from the wire between the ABS ECU and Main ECU, from pin 18 on the main ECU. (Easy to check the pin numbers as there a marked on then ECU connector) This is a yellow/white wire. This signal is a nice square waveform.

The water temperature sensor is pin 31 (Green/White wire) on the same connector as the VSS signal. I have voltages from this sensor to give some future help listed below.

Connect everything up and start the bike, with the laptop connected Via the USB lead to the PC V.

You will then need to go through the setup of speed sensor, water temp and gear selection.

Main ECU connector under the tool tray, You can see that I have wired the AutoTune into the tail light connection (Red heat shrink)

https://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1696/imag0268x.jpg

Gear Selection is quite good fun running the bike on the centre stand doing nearly a 100 mph in the garage :eek:

Note if you find the Autotune isnt working look in the packaging for a spare black connector, you need this to terminate the canbus so the PC V recognises that the Autotune is connected. Plug it into the spare socket on the Autotune box

I then fitted a toggle switch on the Left hand bar inside the instrument block

https://img72.imageshack.us/img72/273/imag0270.jpg

Switch fitted

https://img807.imageshack.us/img807/9152/imag0272.jpg

Tidy up all wiring and you end up with something like this, maybe not the tidiest wiring but neat enough for me

https://img405.imageshack.us/img405/7637/imag0271h.jpg

Setup Autotune and go for a ride to see how it adjusts the fuelling trim table. My garage now looks like a little dyno setup with my laptop display all sorts of parameters :D

As promised the water Temp voltages

Ambient temperature 20 degrees C voltage on sensor 2.511 Volts- engine not running

Following voltages were measured with engine idling at 1000-1100 rpm and not revving as this varies the sensor output.

Soon as a bar appeared in the display I noted the voltage.

1 Bars---1.395V---- 40 Deg C

2 Bars---1.095V----50 Deg C

3 Bars---0.976V----60 Deg C

4 Bars---0.805V----70 Deg C

5 Bars---0.575V----80 Deg C

6 Bars---0.449V----90 Deg C

7 Bars---0.355V---100 Deg C The Fan cut in/ cut out on the 7th bar

8 Bars my bike didn't get that high.

The Fan cut in at 0.322V, and cut out at 0.377V. These voltages were repeated as the fan cut in/out. General opinion is that the fan cut in temp is 105 Deg C and off at 100 Deg C. I worked back the temperature to give these approx temperature settings for each bar. It seems to reasonably accurate. If any body has any further info, like measured water temperature with bars displayed, shout up.

Regards

Andy

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I know several people have done this install but I thought I would post up my install for future reference.
The PC V will fit any GenII model, my own install is on a 2007 UK model.

Thanks to Dave at Verizon.net for supplying Pair blanking plates (member on this forum-will post his username shortly) and Power racing for supply of the Power commander + auto tune.

First of all read the full instructions before beginning.

First job is to remove the Pair air recirc system. You must remove this if you intend to use the Autotune facility. The Autotune uses a wideband O2 sensor and will not get accurate readings unless the pair system is disabled/removed. There are many threads covering removal.

https://img535.imageshack.us/img535/7060/imag0262s.jpg

Pair system removed, and the one tool needed.

https://img831.imageshack.us/img831/848/imag0266.jpg

The new blanking covers installed, much tidier now.

https://img819.imageshack.us/img819/4961/imag0267.jpg

Now to install the New power commander V, exactly the same as installing a PC3. Disconnect the fuel injection plug and fit the power commander to these plugs. Route the earth lead to the battery negative terminal.

I removed the blanking plug from my exhaust(when using a PC3) and fitted the new Bosch wideband sensor, route the cable upto the tool tray.

Now time to add sensor inputs from the bike into the PC V

I used two inputs for the PC V, VSS speed sensor and water temperature sensor.

The rear speed sensor, tapped this off from the wire between the ABS ECU and Main ECU, from pin 18 on the main ECU. (Easy to check the pin numbers as there a marked on then ECU connector) This is a white/yellow wire. This signal is a nice square waveform.

The water temperature sensor is pin 31 (Green/White wire) on the same connector as the VSS signal. I have voltages from this sensor to give some future help listed below.

Connect everything up and start the bike, with the laptop connected Via the USB lead to the PC V.

You will then need to go through the setup of speed sensor, water temp and gear selection.

Main ECU connector under the tool tray, You can see that I have wired the AutoTune into the tail light connection (Red heat shrink)

https://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1696/imag0268x.jpg

Gear Selection is quite good fun running the bike on the centre doing nearly a 100 mph in the garage :eek:

Note if you find the Autotune isnt working look in the packaging for a spare black connector, you need this to terminate the canbus so the PC V recognises that the Autotune is connected. Plug it into the spare socket on the Autotune box

I then fitted a toggle switch on the Left hand bar inside the instrument block

https://img72.imageshack.us/img72/273/imag0270.jpg

Switch fitted

https://img807.imageshack.us/img807/9152/imag0272.jpg

Tidy up all wiring and you end up with something like this, maybe not the tidiest wiring but neat enough for me

https://img405.imageshack.us/img405/7637/imag0271h.jpg

Setup Autotune and go for a ride to see how it adjust the fuelling trim table. My garage now looks like a little dyno setup with my laptop display all sorts of parameters :D

As promised the water Temp voltages

Ambient temperature 20 degrees C voltage on sensor 2.511 Volts- engine not running

Following voltages were measured with engine idling at 1000-1100 rpm and not revving as this varies the sensor output.

Soon as a bar appeared in the display I noted the voltage.

1 Bars---1.395V---- 40 Deg C

2 Bars---1.095V----50 Deg C

3 Bars---0.976V----60 Deg C

4 Bars---0.805V----70 Deg C

5 Bars---0.575V----80 Deg C

6 Bars---0.449V----90 Deg C

7 Bars---0.355V---100 Deg C The Fan cut in/ cut out on the 7th bar

8 Bars my bike didn't get that high.

The Fan cut in at 0.322V, and cut out at 0.377V. These voltages were repeated as the fan cut in/out. General opinion is that the fan cut in temp is 105 Deg C and off at 100 Deg C. I worked back the temperature to give these approx temperature settings for each bar. It seems to reasonably accurate. If any body has any further info, like measured water temperature with bars displayed, shout up.

Regards

Andy

Great post.

Thanks

What results have you found? How much better than stock is it?

 
The PC3 and PC V help enormously with throttle response eg no more throttle jerkiness. The PC V has more gadgets :yahoo:

Andy

 
Great writeup. Just wondering, you mentioned "disable/remove the pair system", is there a way to disable without actually removing? Thanks

 
Great writeup. Just wondering, you mentioned "disable/remove the pair system", is there a way to disable without actually removing? Thanks
Just rip out all the air induction system including the solenoid and fit some rubber blanking off caps.

You will need 4 X 1/2 inch caps, and one 5/8 inch cap care of any auto accessories dealer

The 5/8 cap is for the air box, the 1/2 for the cam covers.

 
I'm trying my best to not ask stupid questions that have already been answered on the forum, but there's so much data on this site, a lot of it's buried, some is outdated, and with 3 generations of FJR, it can really leave a guy scratching his head. I hope someone can give me some insight.

Background: Recently purchased an 2007 FJR1300 with about 5000 miles on the clock, immaculate machine, total garage queen. Immediately noticed the herky, jerky, snatchy throttle issue. Cleaned cables, cleaned everything related to the throttle, installed G2, unwound spring 1 turn, confirmed elevation recall was performed. Problem was about 50% better, still not happy in the low speed twisties. Decided, after much research, the PCV would probably be the best solution. I live in Reno at over 4000 feet of elevation, I can start the morning at 4000, hit 10,000, and then be at sea level by lunchtime. That being the case, I decided the Autotune module would probably be a worthwhile addition.

Questions:

#1 I'm assuming the PCV and Autotune modules are a simple plug and play operation utilizing the stock wiring harness and connectors? I hate tapping into the stock harness, but based on the excellent overview above, it looks like you have to tap some wires for speed, temp, and gear position?

#2 I spent over an hour digging through the forum and I can not find this mentioned anywhere. The Autotune module requires the addition of an 18mm, Wide Band O2 sensor. I looked at my FJR and it appears the stock O2 sensor is 18mm? The guy I spoke with at Fuel Moto seemed to think it was 12mm, which would require some serious modification to get the sensor on. Is the O2 sensor install on a 2007 with stock pipes simply a matter of removing the old sensor and installing the new wide band one?

Thanks for the help!

 
I'm trying my best to not ask stupid questions that have already been answered on the forum, but there's so much data on this site, a lot of it's buried, some is outdated, and with 3 generations of FJR, it can really leave a guy scratching his head. I hope someone can give me some insight.
Background: Recently purchased an 2007 FJR1300 with about 5000 miles on the clock, immaculate machine, total garage queen. Immediately noticed the herky, jerky, snatchy throttle issue. Cleaned cables, cleaned everything related to the throttle, installed G2, unwound spring 1 turn, confirmed elevation recall was performed. Problem was about 50% better, still not happy in the low speed twisties. Decided, after much research, the PCV would probably be the best solution. I live in Reno at over 4000 feet of elevation, I can start the morning at 4000, hit 10,000, and then be at sea level by lunchtime. That being the case, I decided the Autotune module would probably be a worthwhile addition.

Questions:

#1 I'm assuming the PCV and Autotune modules are a simple plug and play operation utilizing the stock wiring harness and connectors? I hate tapping into the stock harness, but based on the excellent overview above, it looks like you have to tap some wires for speed, temp, and gear position?

#2 I spent over an hour digging through the forum and I can not find this mentioned anywhere. The Autotune module requires the addition of an 18mm, Wide Band O2 sensor. I looked at my FJR and it appears the stock O2 sensor is 18mm? The guy I spoke with at Fuel Moto seemed to think it was 12mm, which would require some serious modification to get the sensor on. Is the O2 sensor install on a 2007 with stock pipes simply a matter of removing the old sensor and installing the new wide band one?

Thanks for the help!
#1 yes, plug and play. But don't ground to frame, take it back to the negative terminal on the battery.

#2 they sent the 02 sensor with my autotune kit. Not sure what the size was, but it did fit. Simple remove and replace. Don't forget to antisieze it.

 
Remember that the 07's were subject to a ECU recall.

Could pay to take the bike to a dealer and check it against the vin#.

My 07 was horrible and finally managed to get the ECU changed out.

It was done in good faith as it wasn't a recall in Australia, but well documented in the USA.

The PC5 and Autotune masked the fueling issue, but was never right.

 
Remember that the 07's were subject to a ECU recall.Could pay to take the bike to a dealer and check it against the vin#.

My 07 was horrible and finally managed to get the ECU changed out.

It was done in good faith as it wasn't a recall in Australia, but well documented in the USA.

The PC5 and Autotune masked the fueling issue, but was never right.
I went to the dealership the original owner purchased the bike from and verified the elevation recall was performed, they showed me the service records for the bike. I've had 19 carbureted motorcycles and 3 fuel injected ones, all the F.I.'s were pre 2010 and all had snatchy throttles. Even my wife immediately noticed the difference between our '06 Concours an the '07 FJR. Did you run your bike after the recall and regret the PC5/Autotune, or do you think a combination of all three is what's necessary to get her running right?

 
Did you run your bike after the recall and regret the PC5/Autotune, or do you think a combination of all three is what's necessary to get her running right
I ran with a zero map after the ECU swap and just recently removed the PC5/Autotune, it runs fine now.

I've sold the PC5/Autotune and selling to 07 soon.

 
Remember that the 07's were subject to a ECU recall.Could pay to take the bike to a dealer and check it against the vin#.

My 07 was horrible and finally managed to get the ECU changed out.

It was done in good faith as it wasn't a recall in Australia, but well documented in the USA.

The PC5 and Autotune masked the fueling issue, but was never right.
I went to the dealership the original owner purchased the bike from and verified the elevation recall was performed, they showed me the service records for the bike. I've had 19 carbureted motorcycles and 3 fuel injected ones, all the F.I.'s were pre 2010 and all had snatchy throttles. Even my wife immediately noticed the difference between our '06 Concours an the '07 FJR. Did you run your bike after the recall and regret the PC5/Autotune, or do you think a combination of all three is what's necessary to get her running right?
My '06 has the ECU recall done. I had the PCIII first, sold it and got the PCV with auto tune and have been very happy. I don't use the G2 tube.

 
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