Power Locks ?

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hoham

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93 Ford Club Wagon Van. Lousy mileage but one problem can't seem to figure out. Power lock on side door won't stay unlocked. Push the remote button and all doors unlock as they should. This door locks again in just a few seconds. If I hit the button to open all doors, it is the only door that won't stay unlocked. Dealer tried , others have worked on it and so have I. Any ideas why ?

 
I'm no rocket scientist, but it sounds like a short to that actuator. Check the wiring where it leaves the door for damage.

 
I'm no rocket scientist, but it sounds like a short to that actuator. Check the wiring where it leaves the door for damage.
Exactly what he said. The ford wiring through the door jambs is known to cause problems in older windows and locks.

 
I'm no rocket scientist, but it sounds like a short to that actuator. Check the wiring where it leaves the door for damage.
Exactly what he said. The ford wiring through the door jambs is known to cause problems in older windows and locks.
Thanks, I'll check out the wiring this weekend. Kept looking foir a problem in the door.

 
Is there a way that you can use jumper wires to bypass the wiring that passes through the door jamb? Give it a try and see if the problem persists. If not, then you just found the problem.

 
Do you know for sure if the actuators are Genuine Ford product or aftermarket?

I install power locks all the time in vehicles that didn't come with them. The aftermarkets work by pushing the lock button down. If the lock rod is too tight it will automatically push itself back down when unlocked.

The system in the van is called "reversal rest at ground" if it's a factory installed item WITHOUT factory keyless entry. If it's a FACTORY remote keyless entry, it's called "positive pulse", and there will be a relay pack somewhere. If it's aftermarket, there will also be a relay box somewhere along the harness. Ford locks don't use relays with reversal rest at ground. Only with the factory remote keyless entry.

You CANNOT replace a Ford factory actuator wih an aftermarket unit. I'm not talking aftermarket as in another brand factory Ford replacement item, I'm talking the kind that works in it's own kit like the ones I sell.

Easiest test to do is to temporarily remove the lock rod and try it. If it still does it, you need to test the wires on the plug going into the actuator. There should only be 2 wires. See if either one gets voltage a few seconds after you hit unlock. This will eliminate the actuator from the equation if either gets voltage after unlock. Is the one in question making ANY odd type of noise during unlock? If so, it's junk. Time to replace.

Also, the switches on those old Fords are notorious for doing crazy things. Pass. side front door switch is the master switch. See if you can locate another switch and swap it out just for the Helluvit.

My guess would be...if there was a shorted wire in one of the doors, the doorlock fuse would blow. You'll need to look elsewhere. OR...jiggle the suspect wires uring unlock and see if it still does it. If, visually, no wires are bare and touching, rule out the harness in that area. If a wire was broken inside it's own covering, the lock would simply not work. Reversal rest at ground wiring needs ALL wires working properly. If one wire breaks, the whole thing won't work. no lock OR unlock.

Hope this helps.

<EDIT.......>

OK stupid me for not reading your post closely. Back to the original question....factory or aftermarket remote? That might lead you in the right direction too, after reading the above.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Do you know for sure if the actuators are Genuine Ford product or aftermarket?
I install power locks all the time in vehicles that didn't come with them. The aftermarkets work by pushing the lock button down. If the lock rod is too tight it will automatically push itself back down when unlocked.

The system in the van is called "reversal rest at ground" if it's a factory installed item WITHOUT factory keyless entry. If it's a FACTORY remote keyless entry, it's called "positive pulse", and there will be a relay pack somewhere. If it's aftermarket, there will also be a relay box somewhere along the harness. Ford locks don't use relays with reversal rest at ground. Only with the factory remote keyless entry.

You CANNOT replace a Ford factory actuator wih an aftermarket unit. I'm not talking aftermarket as in another brand factory Ford replacement item, I'm talking the kind that works in it's own kit like the ones I sell.

Easiest test to do is to temporarily remove the lock rod and try it. If it still does it, you need to test the wires on the plug going into the actuator. There should only be 2 wires. See if either one gets voltage a few seconds after you hit unlock. This will eliminate the actuator from the equation if either gets voltage after unlock. Is the one in question making ANY odd type of noise during unlock? If so, it's junk. Time to replace.

Also, the switches on those old Fords are notorious for doing crazy things. Pass. side front door switch is the master switch. See if you can locate another switch and swap it out just for the Helluvit.

My guess would be...if there was a shorted wire in one of the doors, the doorlock fuse would blow. You'll need to look elsewhere. OR...jiggle the suspect wires uring unlock and see if it still does it. If, visually, no wires are bare and touching, rule out the harness in that area. If a wire was broken inside it's own covering, the lock would simply not work. Reversal rest at ground wiring needs ALL wires working properly. If one wire breaks, the whole thing won't work. no lock OR unlock.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for all the ideas. I knew I would find someone who has worked on Power Locks.

<EDIT.......>

OK stupid me for not reading your post closely. Back to the original question....factory or aftermarket remote? That might lead you in the right direction too, after reading the above.
 
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