Problem seat

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steve'o'

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A while back I purchased a seat, Corbin, to be exact, for my Gen 1 '03 from a forum member, thanks again Gary. As you all know the stock 2 piece, but the Corbin is a one piece seat. My delima is, I am having an issue getting the seat off. The bracket on the Corbin was snug when I put it on, and now I am afraid that I will twist the key off in the seat lock. Being that it is still winter here in NS Canada and cold, is it possible that once the warm weather arrives things, the bracket and bike, may expand a bit with warmth and possibly the seat may be easier to remove. If anyone has any suggestions or soutions I would appreciate it.

Tks

 
My seat (also a Gen 1...but a Russell on the stock pan) tightened up for some reason after years of use and found myself barely able to latch it..and when it would latch was very tight to release. Try putting full butt weight on it while reaching down to try the key.

I ended up dremeling out a tiny bit of material on the latch portion and it works like a charm again.

 
Go with Iggy! My Corbin required a firm pressure on the middle of the seat with my left hand while reaching down to turn the key simultaneously with the right hand. And yes, the cold probably shrunk tolerances and stiffened the fiberglass base of the Corbin.

 
Steve:

+ 1 on Ignatio's advice about using a dremmel, and maybe some good grease, once ya get the thing off.

The seat's latch is a spring loaded rectangular metal slide pulled (to the left) by a cable coming up from the key. The cable feeds through from the left of the bike, and pulls the seat latch from the left. The latch itself simply slides over the top of the protruding U-shaped hook mounted to the Corbin's seat pan, thus locking it down. On your Corbin, this "hook" is binding against the bottom surface of the FJR's sliding latch. I guess it's pulling up on the latch, preventing it from being able to slide to the left and thus release the seat. Part of the problem is that the key can't generate enough pulling power to move the latch due to the lifting pressure of the seat's U-shaped hook on that sliding latch.

I'm thinking that maybe you need to put a lot of weight directly above the latch in the dead center of the seat between the two rubber bumpers that suspend the seat pan above the FJR's crossbar. I'm thinking that standing (or even bouncing a little) on the seat with the ball of your foot puts all your weight in a very concentrated area, and might just be enough to pop it, as someone else turns the key and holds your hand so you don't fall on your head.

Second possibility: If you can remove the key mechanism, perhaps you can grab the cable with a pair of vise grips and generate a little extra pulling power to pull that cable. [EDIT: I've never actually attempted to remove the lock with its bracket. Good luck.] Again, this will take more than one person. One of these two solutions should do the trick.

I wish there was a way to spray some lube on that latch mechanism... that might be a part of the problem as well. That might be doable, but it will take some extra brainstorming.

Good luck Steve.

Gary

 
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Here's another thought:

The seat's lock down tab isn't quite as wide as the frame slot into which it locks. There's some left-right wiggle room. Have someone turn the key while you kick the center of the seat left, right, left, right, etc. Can they feel the key turning slightly as the seat slides, say, about an 1/8 inch, back and forth within the slop or clearance inside that slot? Any chance that by turning that key a little harder, that the release latch mechanism could be "bumped" an 1/8 inch at a time by kicking the seat left, right, left and right until it's locking slide mechanism finally "steps" to the left far enough to release? Does that make sense? Maybe the pressure of turning the key could move the slide in increments as you bump the seat repeatedly left and right?

Gary

 
My Corbin is tight also. I just use a mild palm heal strike to the pillion forward section while turning the key. Easy peasey. Definitely don't want to turn the key with any resistance. They break easy!

 
Grease on mating latch surfaces and pressure down on the seat are both great ideas. Also, don't forget to service ALL your locks at least once a year with silicone spray lube. It will keep the lock works working without gumming them up like WD40 will. Spray it in through the tumblers where the key goes in.

 
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I am having an issue getting the seat off. The bracket on the Corbin was snug when I put it on, and now I am afraid that I will twist the key off in the seat lock. Being that it is still winter here in NS Canada and cold, is it possible that once the warm weather arrives things, the bracket and bike, may expand a bit with warmth and possibly the seat may be easier to remove. If anyone has any suggestions or soutions I would appreciate it.Tks
Steve'O

If you think that cold is the problem, try flooding a lot of warm air from a hair dryer (NOT a heat gun!) under the seat for several minutes. A heat gun can melt and/or burn everything short of steel (which includes lead, or tin solder).

Cheers,

Infrared

 
I had the same problem on my 2004 .I took the bracket off the seat and put washers between the bracket & the seat .That will fix the problem.

 
I had the same problem om my 2004 with the Corban seat.I removed the bracket off the seat & installed washersbetween the bracket & seat.That will fix the problem.

 
Go with Iggy! My Corbin required a firm pressure on the middle of the seat with my left hand while reaching down to turn the key simultaneously with the right hand. And yes, the cold probably shrunk tolerances and stiffened the fiberglass base of the Corbin.
As heavy as Corbins are, I thought they were made out of depleted uranium, not fiberglass???

Color me confused!

 
Wait... are corbins made of materials sourced from Uranus?

'Cause the 4 that I've owned sure felt like they wanted a piece of it back.

tonguesmiley.gif


 
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