Problems with my service manual.

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BritRider

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Used my service manual for the first time yesterday. As soon as I opened it up and spread the pages the spine of the book split open. By the time I had finished doing my service I had one loose page with others on the way out. I didn't relish the idea of loosing or damaging these loose pages.

Decided today to split the book open completely and put into a three ring binder.



 
Great way to solve the binding problem. I reinforce the covers and spine with heavy duty clear packing tape from our shipping dept. Keeps the covers flat and keeps the spine from cracking but I like the binder idea. Easy to stack on a shelf and you can insert a label in the spine of some binders so you can tell what is in the binder. Not a problem for me as I only have the one FJR manual, I don't have the problem some of the members have with several bikes to pick from and take care of
rolleyes.gif


 
Took mine to Kinkos years ago and had it bound with extra blank sheets ro record maintenance. For what they charge for these books, they should be bound better.

 
I had the spine skived off a previous manual and then three hole punched just so I could put it in a binder -- I like the ability to lay the manual out flat, and the binder is much better than a splined book. That being said, once the pages start to pull through -- and select pages will get more wear than the others -- then it's time for protector sheets. Paper hole reinforcements don't last.

 
I had the spine skived off a previous manual and then three hole punched just so I could put it in a binder -- I like the ability to lay the manual out flat, and the binder is much better than a splined book. That being said, once the pages start to pull through -- and select pages will get more wear than the others -- then it's time for protector sheets. Paper hole reinforcements don't last.
Rdezgrider,

Now they make page hole protectors out of clear plastic. Use one on each side of the page, for each hole. Almost bulletproof.

https://www.staples.com/Avery-Reinforcements-for-Hole-Punched-Pages-Clear-200-Pack/product_166322

 
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I had the same thing happen to mine at first use. I used the packing tape trick on mine for now.

I think the 3-ring binder is a good idea, I'll probably end up doing the same to mine.

 
I know what it says but my point was they most often assign a new part number for a new part. That would mean the straight '14 is superseded by this 2014-2015, which of course is possible - just making sure. Since it was from Yamaha directly of course that's what happened.

 
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Had my FSM re-bound using spiral wire and clear vinyl front/black vinyl back cover. It had to be split into two volumes, so I chose the electrical section as the beginning of the second volume. I considered using a ring binder, but spiral binding is less prone to tear out.

Agree with AJ: Why don't they at least offer a choice of having the thing properly bound for a little extra $?

 
Y'all must be hard on your manuals. I have used the hell out of mine and haven't had any problems. You can tell by the greasy finger prints on the pages. I also force the book flat to keep it open to the page I am on and I haven't had any problems with the binding. Guess I got a good one! Great idea for binding it, though.

 
The big problem with these is how they're now printed and bound. I spent almost 30 years working for a book manufacturer. These FSM's are done as a "print on demand" book. What this pretty much means is they're stored in digital format and when you order one they print and bind it on a glorified copying machine. Even the company I used to work for is now using this technology for books where the publisher wants less than a specified number of copies, usually around 250 or so.

The actual "printing press" is even made by HP! It utilizes large ink cartridges and is not too far removed from the inkjet printers most of us use at home. Binding is even done within the machine itself using nothing more than adhesive to hold all your pages inside the jacket of the book.

 
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