Protecting the Mirrors

[Ignacio]

A pretty crappy "upgrade" for Gen 3's IMO, and one that should probably be mentioned in those comparison tables that can be found somewhere on this forum for all the model years.

I don't ever remember Yamaha indicating anything of the sort and checked their specs and upgrade fairly religiously each year. Only way it would be added to the table is if you can cite specific documentation or Yamaha source. Let me know if you do.....otherwise I think you might be "air-quoting" a spurious source.

cast aluminum "brace" (Yamaha's designation) that supports the (Gen 3 only) mirrors. & But is there another solution?

I don't know if it's a "solution", but mitigation options include beefing up that section (e.g. Garauld doing something for it like he's done the sub-frames via stiffener), adding a gusset via welding (which means taking out the existing structure and taking to a welder), or something along the JB Weld theory.

One other option is certainly selling your Gen 3 and going and buying a Gen 1 instead....seems counter-evolutionary to me.

Another option is having the part remade in another material (e.g. mild steel like the Gen 1 is made of). Although expensive, It would then bend more likely than break.

Finally, the the other option I'm sticking with....don't drop the damn bike!

And if you ignore that advice, expect to have to replace or repair what you broke. Personally I knew this was an issue and if I ever dropped my Gen 3 I would probably have to replace the nose pieces, JB Weld, or do something else....or in my case I totaled my bike and the bracket was the least of my worries. Never was it a factor that I not proceeded in buy and loving a Gen 3 though.

 

[wheatonFJR]

Ya buncha old *******s droppin yer bike an ****.

I only dropped mine cuz I messed up that wheelie. Only wheelie responsibly. That's my story an stickin to it.

 

[Fred W]

I'm in the camp of "much ado about nothing". Don't F* up and drop the bike and you don't have to worry about replacing it, right? I'm sure that I will, eventually, break it, and I'll figure out some way to make it work then.

If it really bothers you that much, take the offensive mirrors off entirely and mount some of those inexpensive handlebar mount dual sport mirrors that mount on RAM balls so they pivot no matter what you hit.

I'm not doubting that one could break that subframe with very little impact, but I still think the FZ1 mirrors give you a better chance of not snapping the thing off, even though Ray-ray and Jon managed to do it, apparently. Or are they talking of the same "incident"?

 

[RaYzerman19]

Unless you can very gently let 'er down as was mentioned previously, I'm doubting much will save the stay. What happens in an uncontrolled drop is the bike touches down on the mirror base/upper vertical part of the fairing beside the front dash panel.... the fairing moves while the rigid paper thin stay does not. OEM mirrors worse, but FZ1 mirrors same deal (after they fold up). FZ1's will give you a slightly better chance, but not much as there is still going to be pressure on that fairing. I would hesitate trying to reinforce the stay at all, would rather have it break on the ears where you have a chance to repair it. I would think if you stiffen it with reinforcements, it is going to break somewhere else next time, maybe not in a repairable area. Both my repairs were successful with epoxy and all one can do is hope there isn't a next time. I would pursue a repair before I would go to all the work of replacing it due to that risk of there being a next time. Yes, crappy design, but worry less and go ride!

 

[SwollenRaccoon]

This problem reminds me of my 1998 Honda SuperHawk. A buddy tipped over, stationary, next to me. His upper body bumped against the front turn signal, bending it down against the side body panel. The $12 turn signal was undamaged, (it bent down and sprung back), but it had pressed against the body panel, breaking it. The body panel was ~$250. If the turn signal mount/stalk had been designed properly, it would have bent or broken, absorbing the force. Instead, I had to replace an expensive body panel. After that event, I replaced the front factory turn signals with flush mount aftermarket units. Unfortunately, there appears to be no such cheap fix for the FJR problem.

Seems Yamaha has used the same logic.

 

[user 8909]

Wider handle bars, yeah, that's it! Handlebars wider than the mirrors and as strong as frame sliders.

That's the ticket!

 

[Costanza]

So I've gone and done it. My new 2015 is only 3 weeks old and both sides kissed the pavement in less than 12 hours! Mostly scuffs that'll "buff out".

Anyway I'm here to get some advice on mirrors. The right one broke internally and I'm try to figure out a couple things. One...internally, what part do they bolt to? I it Stay 1 / 1MC-28356-01-00? Two...Could a weld shop not put a couple of tacks on it and make it like new? Has anyone tried it?

Thanks All.

-Jason

 

[Uncle Hud]

My sympathies, Costanza, it happens to most of us.

There's lots written about the mirrors. This thread has some answers: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/169377-beyond-frustration-mirror-mount-bracket-snapped/

 

[Costanza]

My sympathies, Costanza, it happens to most of us.
There's lots written about the mirrors. This thread has some answers: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/169377-beyond-frustration-mirror-mount-bracket-snapped/

Thank you sir!

 

[northsouth]

Rhinomoto bar ends with CRG mirrors. Just remove those after thought looking donkey ear mirrors, fabricate 2 aluminium hole covers and end up with a better looking bike in the process.